I would hold off on any major changes until you have a way to view your air/fuel ratios (CANscan or wideband O2 sensor). Without that piece of information it is like driving blind.

 

Has anyone notice a dip in throttle response around 2000 rpm? I know I never pulled back on the accelerator (therefore throttle position should increase) when I was logging the data in first gear. The data looks like the following

RPM Throttle Position
1736 12.0
2144 12.0
2379 12.0
2460 12.0
2391 12.0
2249 10.5
2126 10.5
2388 15.0
2496 15.0

Is the ECU purposely pulling back my throttle position? I get this response in all my 1st gear data. When you plot the data (Throttle Position vs. RPM) there is a strange loop in the graph.

 

Magic8 do you have traction control? That might explain it.
________
Motorcycle tires

 

I haven't done any logs, but I've noticed some lag around 2k rpm, espicially in 2nd. I just got my CZ yesterday, so I haven't been able to do much yet, but the ride to work this morning seemed fine... no rough idle & at least as much power as before, if not more. Hopefully I won't have to do any clipping, soldering or any of that other noise. I'll hook up the CS this weekend and get some actual numbers.

I'll also try to post my unaltered maps to my server so we can have a baseline for comparison.

 

Good point. I did have the DCS enable. I will log data with it disable to see if it occured again.

It was strange because it didn't happen just once but multiple times and at the same RPM.

 

I dont have DCS but I do experience that dip around 2 - 3K rpm. It's really annoying coz you're just pressing on the throttle normally but the car runs like you WOT it at that low rpm and so it lugs back and forth. It feels like it's about to die.

My logs didn't show this though which is strange. My logs look smooth but that's not what I felt when I was doing my runs.

 

I feel stupid! :o

I pretty sure the dips in first gear is me working the clutch. :p

Anyways my first gear pull data in my previous thread.

 

OK, I just performed the capacitor vasectomy on my CZ-1 and took it out for a quick test.

Results: Seems to have eliminated the most glaring issue of atrocious performance below 5k RPM. Have not done any formal time tests yet, so I don't know if it performs any better than stock. But at least now it doesn't feel like it is degrading performance.

Wow, I might actually drive around with the switch on now, what a concept!

 

Why should only the leading circuitry be changed? Aren't the trailing colis in danger too
The coils themselfs are the same, so what is the difference?

If someone is willing to do this 'two diodes in line' fix, shouldn't he do it for all four of the coils, making an eight diode solution?

 

For those of you that have successfully tuned the CZ...

How much change on the map values will have an affect on the AFR? I change it 5 already and there is little or any effect. Also I'm guessing that it's okay to let the car run near 14.7 from 0 to 5500 rpm and the car should run rich around 8000 rpm. On the Map, if, for instance, I am targeting 13.5 AFR and it's reading 12.9, do I + or - from the map value to increase the AFR?

Should we start a new thread to discuss tuning the CZ Stage 1.1?

 

Huge difference for my car. I noticed that the car's idle was much more stable, complete power all thru the first three gears on my car so far...(its hard to get much more than 90ish on back roads). Can't wait to get the can scanner in to fine tune the rest of the car.

 

When the car is running in a closed-loop it continually adjusts itself until it reaches an AFR that is close to 14.7 and this is what you have been seeing in the lower RPMs. When under full throttle in the mid to upper RPMs the ECU switches to open-loop and runs off a fairly static set of tables. In that range I have been aiming for an AFR of 13.5. To get there you may have to make some drastic changes to the air flow table and the changes can be upwards of 30% at some points.

A positive number will change the MAF sensor output by X% and lean out the AFR (raise the AFR number). If you are using an eManage the process is backwards, a negative number will lean out the AFR. This is due to a difference in settings with the air flow sensor.

Yes, we should start a new post which is dedicated to tuning the eManage/CZ. That way all of the tuning tips will be easier to find.

 

I don't get it. I thought the RX-8 from the factory runs rich, so why is the CZ map filled with positive numbers. Wouldn't that mean it will run even richer? Especially in the higher RPM where it's +30%...

 

With the CZ unit, a positive number in the air flow table will lean out the air/fuel ratio. This is a bit confusing because it is the opposite of how most eManage units are setup.

 

Just a quick question...

Am I right in saying we need both the CZ-Prog2 kit and the CZ-CANSCAN-RX-8 system?

Anything short of having both of the above will be incomplete for doing this work.
Is that correct? (Mine's going back for the updated stuff & I was thinking of buying what I need so it can all ship-back together.)

Sorry, I'm at work & can't spend time researching this topic. Please don't flame me... I don't recall an answer on this in a matter-of-fact kind of way. I'm feeling pretty ignorant asking about this stuff. :o

Thanks!

oh, yeah... anything else? Wideband O2 sensor?...

 

Correct Racer. You need an interface cable for the stage1, Maurice has either USB or serial, as well as the RX-8 Canscan. The CANSCAN I think is serial only still. And dont forget a laptop to plug it all into

 

Or a looong serial/USB extension cable :D

 

Ok, I did a little digging stealthily here at work...

From Michelle:
CZ-Prog1 = USB cable
CZ-Prog2 = serial cable
Useability is equal on the above.

CANScan uses the already-equipped wideband O2 sensor, thru the OBD-II interface that it connects to. So, no need for another wideband O2 sensor - already got it.

Found CANScan also available via online paypal purchase at http://www.ghgcorp.com/dharrison/canscan.htm
It's the same setup, right? CZ ships direct from Texas when you get it thru them, so, am I right?

Can I borrow your laptop, Genom?

 

Maurice has an RX-8 specific CanScan unit for sale. I don't know what tweaks were done to make it special.
________
Digital Vaporizer

 

It is close but not quite the same thing. Maurice worked with Dan Harrison to create a special version. The wideband O2 output has been calibrated to increase its accuracy. The read out from the normal CANscan is not accurate enough to fine tune the engine.

 

Not true.

Version 3.50r7 that is available on the Harrison site is the same as the CZ version.

 

Have you tried logging O2 sensor values to see if they match? If they come out the same, then it makes more sense to save a few bucks and buy it directly from Dan Harrison.

 

The front page says:

CANScan With Windows™ software - RS-232 interface only, Works with CAN bus OBD-II vehicles, Ford Powerstroke 2003-2004, Taurus 2004, Mazda RX-8, Mazda 6, Saturn ION, and many more. Works on 2003 and later CANbus OBD-II vehicles!

Someone should email Harrison to see ... I'd do it, but I just spent the time typing out this message that would have gone into sending Harrison an email.

 

Hmm... I have version 3.50r7 here directly from Dan. One thing I have noticed is that I have never seen 9000+ rpms on my logs even though I have hit the limiter while doing test runs.

Do you guys with CZ Canscan have 9000+ rpms? I'm beginning to think that there is a flaw in my RPM readings. That or my car never really reaches 9000, it's like the 238 HP in the sticker (just marketing numbers)

 

xyntax, do you know anyone local to you who has the offical canzoomer canscan unit that you'd be able to compare with?