smrx8

iTrader: (1)

what are we suppose to tune the afr too.someone told me 13 to 13.5 at wot is that right.
i should be picking up a canscan sometime next week and start messing with it.i lost 8 hp when my unit comes on .any one have any ideas as to why iam loseing power. by the way i dont have the m flash or any other flash.

Speed Racer

I think you may have just found your problem. The latest CZ units are tuned to work with the M flash.

epitrochoid

get m flash, dealers arent as gay as they used to be about it.

smrx8

iTrader: (1)

no i want to stay away from m flash or any flashes i know of 2 people who dyno really low after the flashes mines dynoing 186 at the wheels stock.so if i can i would want to not have them done. so should i just sell the unit or iam i still able to tune this.

Magic8

I think you may be putting too much stock into dynos. Are you just concerned about the peak HP or the "Area under the curve"? M flashes seriously improves "area under the curve."

Rosco

I can host something, but won't have time to set it up until this weekend. It'll be quick and dirty to start, but I'll clean it up later as I have time. For now, if you're interested in sharing maps, logs screenshots or whatever, PM me. I want to keep some manual control over it initially to make sure my ISP doesn't get ticked off.

It also might be helpful if one of the more experienced tuners out there could throw together some sort of tuning guide. I haven't even gotten my CZ yet, so I won't be much help on that front.

Speed Racer

Yes, you will be able to tune this but you should expect a loss in power because the CZ was not tuned to match the flash that is on your ECU.

smrx8

iTrader: (1)

Speedracer maurice better start paying you or hire you you done more testing and helping out then he has in 6 months

Speed Racer

I'm not an expert in setting up an eManage. I've just been trying to connect all of the dots that have been left by Canzoomer, RX-8 friend, and MazdaManiac. Now they are the real experts. :D

smrx8

iTrader: (1)

sorry mazdamaniac i left you out you been sharing lots of information to people who need it and dont know much about this unit.


"you said rx8 friend" who's that is he a new member ? :D

epitrochoid

personally, im concerned with WOT in 4th, 5th and 6th, but thats just my maniac style..no pun intended

smrx8, search for gtech result pre and post M flash by mazdamaniac...it's faster. Area under the curve is key, after all you probably do drive this car on the street, so its low revs most of the time. personally i dont find the idle to be any worse

Sea Ray

Just got my unit back from the upgrade. He moved the switch to the other side which now makes it much harder to turn on or off without removing the ecu cover. But what is the connector for that is stick out? Remote switch would be nice.

epitrochoid

tach signal i believe

Sea Ray

Yep, Maurice just e-mailed me and said that.

Thanks,

Magic8

Another tid bit from Maurice

let's start sharing the info. Maybe someone write up a "Best Practices" manual with all the responses we get from Maurice, Jeff, etc.


Regarding ignition advance reading from Canscan:

"This is useful as it tells you the advance BEFORE we modify it on the Stage 1.
For example. If, at full throttle, 7200rpm ( 3600 as shown in the e-manage software) we see 26 degrees of advance form the CANScan, and we add 8 degrees in the map, we now have a total of 34 degrees of advance. Try not to exceed 37 degrees of advance." - Maurice Hilarius

Speed Racer

I've already got a document started and it contains over 30 pages of info. I just need to rewrite the info so that it is easier to follow and understand. There are also a few holes that I need to fill in with the help of our resident experts.

epitrochoid

anyone's lugging symptoms i described earlier dissapear with the unit switched off?

its too annoying to drive with, but i dont feel like taking it out

Racer X-8

Now that would be nice. Everything is so disjointed, it's hard to put things together. Good idea.

On a negative note, this is something Maurice should have been working on, not you. Seems like you're in search of the Canzoomer Edmonton Scrolls. We are praying for Canzoomer's second coming.

He's turned his venture into the very atmosphere of doubt that he so distainly refered to in his infamous "RX8 Lemonade" thread and others. Mazda's denial and apathy with the problems that he at that time could not tolerate.

I could rant on this, but this thread is on the right track, to get the thing to work without him. I applaud all of it. Now that RX8 Friend got back from his 2 month absence to tell those like me to not even think about fixing the coil issue with a dipswitch model, I am now finding myself at square 1 again to get the fix done. (No DIY instructions for all levels, as promised)

Maybe when I finally get it back, y'all will have come-up with something good. Right on!

RPIRX-8

As for the lugging issue...

I spent about 2 hours on the phone with Speed Racer tonight while I was in my car getting everything tuned. Noticing a couple of things that might help

1. Ignition Advance - the ignition advance that seems to make the most power is +30 deg. If you have a CanScan cable then you can take readings of what your currently running with. The CanScan cable can only take readings of what happens before the CZ unit makes its changes, it is impossible for it to take readings of what happens after the changes. What you CAN do is take a Real Time Log from the eManage tool and add in ignition time. This will tell you the value that the CZ unit is adding or subtracting from the value the CanScan tool is reading in. Now, having said that, during low RPMs (below 4000) the CZ unit makes it's edits from the leftmost column. If you look at that column you will see the values. Also notice the lowest voltage on the lefthand scale is 3.00. This means that if you are under 4400 rpm and below 3.00V on the MAF, the change the CZ is adding in ignition timing is the very bottom left value (should read 2 for all of you in GB #2). Now, for me, if I look at my CanScan data, my ignition timing from the ECU at low rpms is between 10.5 and 17 degrees. This is very low to make power. I did 3 things to help solve this. First - I switched to the ignition maps that shipped with Speed Racer's unit (this map covers all MAF voltages from 0.00 to 4.10 instead of 3.00 to 4.05). Second - I used the Real Time Logging to make a run in 3rd gear from 2600rpm to redline, and looked at the data. Third - I increased the ignition advance to get me closer to a total of 30 degrees (i ended up increasing it by 7 deg where it needed it). This gave me more responsive and faster revving in the low rpms.

2. Thorttle Position - it is seeming more and more like WOT is not as good as 90% or 85% throttle. I am spending a little more time tuning the Airflow maps for 90% and 80% throttle.

3. I think an aftermarket intake might help here, but it has to be properly engineered. All thuth told, the K&N intake added great power in the high RPMs but stunk out the joint in the low rpms. The car does need more air in the high rpms.

Magic8

I find Maurice to be very responsive to my questions. I think the customer service of the company is very good. Michelle even called me to check that I received all my orders which I did and I would add in a timely fashion. It sounds like they are busy at working on their business.

smrx8

iTrader: (1)

what they should be doing is working on this forum to help people who are having problems with there unit not other people working for free for him .i said this a few weeks back about him writing up a post about the unit. since so many people are trying to tune it themselfs, and asking questions never happened.thanks to few hard working guys everything is starting to fit together.

epitrochoid

so it's just the tune that's causing a lack of power under 4k and therefore lugging the motor?

that's cool, tuning is easier to fix than circuits.

Magic8

Where are you reading the MAF voltages? I am assuming it read from eManage and not the CanScan.

smrx8

iTrader: (1)

could you get any type of information just by plugging in the canzoomer proggraming cable. iam trying to start tuning but dont have a canscan. should i just wait till i can buy it

RPIRX-8

MAF voltages come from the eManage tool doing a Real Time display while doing a run.