Im a rotary noob. I know they run hotter but how hot is safe? I searched but saw nothing. I know the FD had no knock sensor, the 8 doesnt either correct? So I assume the only way to tune is AFR, and exhaust gas temp.

1) What is a safe EGT for tuning a N/A car?
2) What are safe EGTs for tuning a car with the Greddy turbo kit installed?
3) Does the Cobb/MM AP datalog AF ratios?

Ive modded 2 4G63 (EVO) motors in the past and just leaned them out until 1-2 knocks per redline pull was registered so timing advance isnt pulled while keeping EGTs under 1650*F. This was using an Apexi SAFC to trick the ECU airflow readings while using bigger injectors, keeping them under a 90% duty cycle as boost varied on race/pump gas for the strip/street. The 8 looks like its a bit more $ to coax the hp from but well worth it after owning it for a while now.

The Mitsu Eclipse/Eagle Talons have datalogger software available as free shareware used in conjunction with an old Palm M100 and diagnostic port cable you can get for $20, but I will bite the bullet and go Cobb/MM for ease of use.

TIA

 

I don't think many people are running aftermarket, pre turbo EGT. On my Rx-7 I usually see 1650-1700 preturbo on the rear rotor and 1500-1550 preturbo on the front. The rear rotor always runs at least somewhat hotter on a rotary. This is in part due to the fact that the coolant always hits the front rotor first.

The FD had a knock sensor in the front rotor housing, you just can't always trust it. The FC had a knock sensor in the middle side housing, between the front and rear rotor. The Cosmo 20B had dual knock sensors. And Rx-8's also have knock sensors.



The 2009's have one for each rotor.



DSM style tuning is really asking for it on these cars. You've got to pay a lot more attention to fuel trims etc. My advice to you is to study as many rotary/Rx-8 timing maps as you can, and keep the AFR in the 11's somewhere.

 

also, PM me. I have two documents that go into exacting detail about how the Rx-8 PCM works, including the control tables themselves as well as the block diagrams of how the major systems work.

 

They all have knock sensors for the RX8

 

Thank you and PMed, please forgive any ignorance on my part, the rotary is obviously a different beast to tame and Id like to get it right on the first try once I decide on a sc or turbo. Im searching but new territory takes time to map.

Im reading the Greddy turbo has a low life span lacking a water cooled center cartridge but there is a $1k upgrade to address this, but 1K plus $3.5k buy in price for the Greddy kit puts you close to SC money. I read the included Greddy Emanage unit isnt the best tuning tool as well so add another $700 for a MM AP and youre at $5k.

Question- Does the Pettit SC come with a reliable tuning tool for the kits price or is the MM AP recommended for that kit as well?

Also common sense tells me a hotter running rotary would rather have an intercooled SC with no exhaust restrictions (Ive ordered a catless midpipe already) than a heat soaked turbo hanging off of a blazing hot exhaust manifold with the added backpressure and heat on the exhaust ports. I see the Pettit has a built in liquid intercooler whereas the Greddy kit requires plumbing and hanging an air to air intercooler in front of an already stressed radiator. Am I correct in this assumption?

I want to do my own wrenching and working all on top w/ the Pettit seems alot easier than getting the exhaust mani off and hanging the intercooler out front. Does the motor need to be jacked up to remove the ex mani?

I see stock injectors works for 8psi, is the stock fuel pump up to the task? no mention was made w/either kit.

many questions, I know, sorry.

I want to jump but I have 39K left on my warranty so I am timid at this point at least until I learn more.