Exhaust Gas Temp readings?
#1
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Exhaust Gas Temp readings?
Im a rotary noob. I know they run hotter but how hot is safe? I searched but saw nothing. I know the FD had no knock sensor, the 8 doesnt either correct? So I assume the only way to tune is AFR, and exhaust gas temp.
1) What is a safe EGT for tuning a N/A car?
2) What are safe EGTs for tuning a car with the Greddy turbo kit installed?
3) Does the Cobb/MM AP datalog AF ratios?
Ive modded 2 4G63 (EVO) motors in the past and just leaned them out until 1-2 knocks per redline pull was registered so timing advance isnt pulled while keeping EGTs under 1650*F. This was using an Apexi SAFC to trick the ECU airflow readings while using bigger injectors, keeping them under a 90% duty cycle as boost varied on race/pump gas for the strip/street. The 8 looks like its a bit more $ to coax the hp from but well worth it after owning it for a while now.
The Mitsu Eclipse/Eagle Talons have datalogger software available as free shareware used in conjunction with an old Palm M100 and diagnostic port cable you can get for $20, but I will bite the bullet and go Cobb/MM for ease of use.
TIA
1) What is a safe EGT for tuning a N/A car?
2) What are safe EGTs for tuning a car with the Greddy turbo kit installed?
3) Does the Cobb/MM AP datalog AF ratios?
Ive modded 2 4G63 (EVO) motors in the past and just leaned them out until 1-2 knocks per redline pull was registered so timing advance isnt pulled while keeping EGTs under 1650*F. This was using an Apexi SAFC to trick the ECU airflow readings while using bigger injectors, keeping them under a 90% duty cycle as boost varied on race/pump gas for the strip/street. The 8 looks like its a bit more $ to coax the hp from but well worth it after owning it for a while now.
The Mitsu Eclipse/Eagle Talons have datalogger software available as free shareware used in conjunction with an old Palm M100 and diagnostic port cable you can get for $20, but I will bite the bullet and go Cobb/MM for ease of use.
TIA
Last edited by newguy; 09-27-2009 at 08:38 AM.
#2
I don't think many people are running aftermarket, pre turbo EGT. On my Rx-7 I usually see 1650-1700 preturbo on the rear rotor and 1500-1550 preturbo on the front. The rear rotor always runs at least somewhat hotter on a rotary. This is in part due to the fact that the coolant always hits the front rotor first.
The FD had a knock sensor in the front rotor housing, you just can't always trust it. The FC had a knock sensor in the middle side housing, between the front and rear rotor. The Cosmo 20B had dual knock sensors. And Rx-8's also have knock sensors.
The 2009's have one for each rotor.
DSM style tuning is really asking for it on these cars. You've got to pay a lot more attention to fuel trims etc. My advice to you is to study as many rotary/Rx-8 timing maps as you can, and keep the AFR in the 11's somewhere.
The FD had a knock sensor in the front rotor housing, you just can't always trust it. The FC had a knock sensor in the middle side housing, between the front and rear rotor. The Cosmo 20B had dual knock sensors. And Rx-8's also have knock sensors.
The 2009's have one for each rotor.
This was using an Apexi SAFC to trick the ECU airflow readings while using bigger injectors, keeping them under a 90% duty cycle as boost varied on race/pump gas for the strip/street.
Last edited by arghx7; 09-29-2009 at 04:35 PM.
#3
also, PM me. I have two documents that go into exacting detail about how the Rx-8 PCM works, including the control tables themselves as well as the block diagrams of how the major systems work.
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Thank you and PMed, please forgive any ignorance on my part, the rotary is obviously a different beast to tame and Id like to get it right on the first try once I decide on a sc or turbo. Im searching but new territory takes time to map.
Im reading the Greddy turbo has a low life span lacking a water cooled center cartridge but there is a $1k upgrade to address this, but 1K plus $3.5k buy in price for the Greddy kit puts you close to SC money. I read the included Greddy Emanage unit isnt the best tuning tool as well so add another $700 for a MM AP and youre at $5k.
Question- Does the Pettit SC come with a reliable tuning tool for the kits price or is the MM AP recommended for that kit as well?
Also common sense tells me a hotter running rotary would rather have an intercooled SC with no exhaust restrictions (Ive ordered a catless midpipe already) than a heat soaked turbo hanging off of a blazing hot exhaust manifold with the added backpressure and heat on the exhaust ports. I see the Pettit has a built in liquid intercooler whereas the Greddy kit requires plumbing and hanging an air to air intercooler in front of an already stressed radiator. Am I correct in this assumption?
I want to do my own wrenching and working all on top w/ the Pettit seems alot easier than getting the exhaust mani off and hanging the intercooler out front. Does the motor need to be jacked up to remove the ex mani?
I see stock injectors works for 8psi, is the stock fuel pump up to the task? no mention was made w/either kit.
many questions, I know, sorry.
I want to jump but I have 39K left on my warranty so I am timid at this point at least until I learn more.
Im reading the Greddy turbo has a low life span lacking a water cooled center cartridge but there is a $1k upgrade to address this, but 1K plus $3.5k buy in price for the Greddy kit puts you close to SC money. I read the included Greddy Emanage unit isnt the best tuning tool as well so add another $700 for a MM AP and youre at $5k.
Question- Does the Pettit SC come with a reliable tuning tool for the kits price or is the MM AP recommended for that kit as well?
Also common sense tells me a hotter running rotary would rather have an intercooled SC with no exhaust restrictions (Ive ordered a catless midpipe already) than a heat soaked turbo hanging off of a blazing hot exhaust manifold with the added backpressure and heat on the exhaust ports. I see the Pettit has a built in liquid intercooler whereas the Greddy kit requires plumbing and hanging an air to air intercooler in front of an already stressed radiator. Am I correct in this assumption?
I want to do my own wrenching and working all on top w/ the Pettit seems alot easier than getting the exhaust mani off and hanging the intercooler out front. Does the motor need to be jacked up to remove the ex mani?
I see stock injectors works for 8psi, is the stock fuel pump up to the task? no mention was made w/either kit.
many questions, I know, sorry.
I want to jump but I have 39K left on my warranty so I am timid at this point at least until I learn more.
Last edited by newguy; 09-29-2009 at 11:54 PM.
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