Your AFR's looked ok until you let offf the pedal... which is normal.. when you let go of the throttle... it's gonna climb up to the 20's.... (fuel cutoff)

If you look at where your afr rises, you just let go of your pedal.

:-)

 

I finally made some good runs this week using Baseline and my "Open Loop" map....

At the end of the day, I did not have to touch my MAF much... just a few minor tweaks.... I was getting the AFR's I expected in my fuel maps.

I changed the upper MAF voltages by a M value of around 0.96 on average as it was running a bit rich in the higher RPM's / loads.

I attached a snapshot of my log. It shows a highway cruise at WOT mid RPM range... I sorted by calculated load, highest to lowest.
I am getting my low 13's as I mapped out in my fuel table.

Other areas I am getting pretty consistant mid to upper 14's as expected.

Going to use this MAF curve now and tweak the fuel tables for any spikes in AFR or low spots. :-)

 

Nice, I would set my tables richer personally, but if your not pinging then roll with it.

Use the Fuel VE% map to try to get your spots closer to target.

 

Hey Kane....

Ya think I am running a bit lean? What would you run at? 12.8 ?

I don't hear ping... at least I don't think so... Would it sound like is does in a normal engine?

With my mid pip I have it makes it hard to hear anything when I punch it.

 

At Wide Open, I never go leaner than 12.5 personally unless I am in a controlled environment like the dyno.

The difference in power from 12.5 to say 13.5 is almost 0 - but the risk of detonation is a lot higher.

 

Uh, are you guys talking FI or NA? 'Cuz, those numbers be wrong either way.

For FI on the Renesis, NEVER go above 11.5:1 at the torque peak at full load. In fact, the power difference between 11.5:1 and 10.9:1 is negligible.

For NA on the Renesis, shoot for 13.2:1 at the torque peak for maximum power. The difference between there and 12.5:1 can be as much as 12%, but it depends on fuel quality, ignition timing and engine health.

 

I have an NA Auto 4 port engine.... Always run Chevron 94.
I have not messed with the timing...
Engine seems to be in great "health" ... Starts quick always...Cold and Hot... and runs very smooth.... 60,000 km.

I am shooting for the 13.2 at max torque....

From my logs... I look like I am getting very close to 13.2... need to tweak a little...

:-)

 

The auto is slightly a different story because you need a bit of cushion for the shift-knock that can happen.

 

Thanks Maniac...

I will readjust the higher load and RPM areas to around 12.8.

I don't want to blow up my motor!!!

Thanks to everyone for the great advice!!!!

:-)

 

Okay, now I've replaced the bad ssv actuator I now have a new datalog to post (#11).
Jeff, you can see in the logs how much my high RPM AFR changed from Dyno day (#1)!

If you are not pulling close to 210 g/s you should probably check for vacuum leaks on the SSV actuator
The size of the leak: Setup: a hand vacuum pump connected by hose to the actuator : Pull vacuum and wait : My actuator would bleed down to half vacuum in about 5 seconds.

On my car it meant that the SSV was closing as it ran out of vacuum! This is why my car pulled so low on the dyno.
It seems like a small difference in air flow but it's pointing to a bigger problem. And there is no CEL and no other way to tell.



Obviously it needs to be tuned now that it's fixed.

 

Yeah, that is a significant jump.

 

So, it was the acuator and not the valve itself?

 

Correct. All my valves move freely and pass the self test but the SSV actuator was bleeding off the vacuum and costing me my top end power.

 

I will have to look that up, I have meaning to clean my SSV since it has 116,000 on it. Hopefully the part is not very expensive, that way I can just replace it for good measure.

 

Mazda sells them as a set (SSV and actuator) for something like $250
I bought a used actuator for $50 shipped. There are several out there but you have to make sure that they are tested with a vacuum gauge for leak down before you buy.

Quick question...
For my next set of logs am I starting with what I have from the GTA dyno day or am I going back to base maps?

 

Thanks, maybe I will just get the whole set new for peace of mind.

 

Should I revert to the base calibration? Since this is a big AFR change should I consider the cal from GTA dyno day to be trashed?


Seems like a lot of money for something that isn't broken...

 

Wow DarkBrew... that is crazy.
Glad you figured it out!

 

Something new to check... Add it to your list
There are lots of cars only pulling 197 - 200 G/s WOT
I wonder how wide spread this is...

There is no warning that this issue is present.
Without the dyno day I may not have known. Edit: Jeff! Your expertise of course!
Without the Access Port I would have never seen the lower flow and would not have the data to confirm the fix.
Without your help, Jon, I would have taken longer to debug the problem.
Without our online community I couldn't source an actuator as easily.
Without WCS helping the repair would have been tougher.

I suspect that there are others both inside and outside this awesome community who are unaware that they are losing a lot of power.

 

No. It should have more than enough adjustment range to cover the increase.

 

Crap! 3K - 4K RPM I'm hitting AFRs over 14 WOT. I'll post graphs tonight.
It's not making power and sounds lean through this range.

 

Yeah, that's no bueno.

 

So the recommendation is?? Go to base map and re-tune?

 

Nah. Just follow the normal submission format with the current tune.

 

does this apply for all psi levels or should it be richer as psi/flow climbs ?