Best NA Power Mods
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Atlanta area
My personal decision to stay NA has been one of reliability. Granted I have enough experienced people around me to solve problems quickly but at the end of the weekend I need to drive to work Monday morning. I couldn't chance having my car down because of turbo problems, engine problems or PCM issues. Only until a few months ago did I even have enough space to leave a car project overnight without taking up someone else's garage space.
The most important thing to remember is chasing power is an expensive trip. Just be prepared for that fact.
The most important thing to remember is chasing power is an expensive trip. Just be prepared for that fact.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: portland oregon
I've gone back and cleaned up this thread. Of course someone will want to tell me i've done it wrong. but the only thing i'm going to fix from this point on is any continuance of the previous argument and I'm going to dig out that respect quote for Flashwing cause I know how much he'd like to have it as a keepsake
I wanted to quote the above snippets from page 1 to show that the whole argument started with these two people AGREEING on the point. people need to lighten up on both sides. Its kind of ridiculous.
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Joined: May 2009
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From: Socal
Different horses...
Your is of course a legitimate viewpoint. But I've known plenty of others, including people in the Miata community, who have removed their forced induction systems after a year or two in the name of simplification. I had a supercharged Miata and it was fun. But let's make no bones about it - bolting on some N/A mods and spending the afternoon at the dyno shop is a much smaller investment, time-wise, than going forced induction.
But yes, I may just go forced induction some day. It would be fun. And there is a class for it in Solo - it's just a much more expensive class than STX.
Speed costs money, pure & simple. But simplicity is also a consideration for many.
Your is of course a legitimate viewpoint. But I've known plenty of others, including people in the Miata community, who have removed their forced induction systems after a year or two in the name of simplification. I had a supercharged Miata and it was fun. But let's make no bones about it - bolting on some N/A mods and spending the afternoon at the dyno shop is a much smaller investment, time-wise, than going forced induction.
But yes, I may just go forced induction some day. It would be fun. And there is a class for it in Solo - it's just a much more expensive class than STX.
Speed costs money, pure & simple. But simplicity is also a consideration for many.
My Miata WAS supercharged (Jackson Racing M45 Kit w/ JR Powercard), then I went turbo (Greddy turbo kit w/ Greddy Emanage), and then I blew my motor because of a bad tune.
That's when I went and built my Miata engine. I was probably also one of the only guys to run a B6 engine as well.
It was cool for bragging rights and all, but seriously 139 whp? I could've been making close to 300 whp in that car for the amount of money I spent and still had money left over for aero parts and what not.
That's why I say Forced Induction > Naturally Aspirated if you want power. BUT.....I do not recommend FI for everyone. It takes calculated risks and one little hint of detonation can be the end of your motor. Even the best of the best here have blown their motors.
Power delivery and response on an ITB'd built-engine car was AWESOME. But it gets old when the turbo guys are passing you.
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From: Socal
^^^
I know!!! The kits were finally available AFTER I had finished by build. If I had the time to do it all over again, I would've went with the whole Flyin' Miata Holden LS2 V8 w/ factory ecu CTS rear end.
It would have only costed me a few grand more, but with 350 something horsepower out of the box and a curb weight of 2100 lbs. That's the stuff to have.
At the time though, it was expensive and only guys with fabrication skills were able to pull it off. Now they make kits (originally sourced from V8 roadsters).
I know!!! The kits were finally available AFTER I had finished by build. If I had the time to do it all over again, I would've went with the whole Flyin' Miata Holden LS2 V8 w/ factory ecu CTS rear end.
It would have only costed me a few grand more, but with 350 something horsepower out of the box and a curb weight of 2100 lbs. That's the stuff to have.
At the time though, it was expensive and only guys with fabrication skills were able to pull it off. Now they make kits (originally sourced from V8 roadsters).
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From: Crystal Lake, Illinois
WELL...This has gone crazy since I last visited.
I'm the OP and am surpised by all the discussions occuring here. I'm not suprised, however, at all of the emotion involved. We're a motivated and emotional bunch, but let's not kill eachother.
I've been busy trying to re-work my entire car, as EVERYTHING seems to be going wrong. I have my tranny pulled right now and in pieces (my drivetrain tranny, not my cross-dressing friend). Sorry I haven't re-visited here.
I do appreciate all of the comments, particularly those of Jedi and the many others who contributed to my request for information with actual, real-world experiences. That's what I was hoping for. While the car's in pieces, I will be upgrading the the BHR igntion system, replacing the header and putting on a high-flow cat. From there, all that will be left will be the Cobb tuned by MM for NA power. As I said before, I'm refraining from FI for reliability issues. This is my primary vehicle and I can't have the car in the shop more than on the road...even though it's been down from almost four months now!
I'm the OP and am surpised by all the discussions occuring here. I'm not suprised, however, at all of the emotion involved. We're a motivated and emotional bunch, but let's not kill eachother.
I've been busy trying to re-work my entire car, as EVERYTHING seems to be going wrong. I have my tranny pulled right now and in pieces (my drivetrain tranny, not my cross-dressing friend). Sorry I haven't re-visited here.
I do appreciate all of the comments, particularly those of Jedi and the many others who contributed to my request for information with actual, real-world experiences. That's what I was hoping for. While the car's in pieces, I will be upgrading the the BHR igntion system, replacing the header and putting on a high-flow cat. From there, all that will be left will be the Cobb tuned by MM for NA power. As I said before, I'm refraining from FI for reliability issues. This is my primary vehicle and I can't have the car in the shop more than on the road...even though it's been down from almost four months now!
just an FYI I've done pretty much everything you can do to an NA engine I'm putting down 218 whp. I believe there is another member that put down a little over 220 whp.
The top 4 things that will create power I'm going to list below in the order that create the most power.
1. Tighter clearance on the side seals (must use cut to fit side seals)
2. Street port intake and exhaust ports
3. Accessport
4. Removal of the cat.
Everything else is junk or for reliability. Sorry if this is repeat info, just figured it should have easy access.
The top 4 things that will create power I'm going to list below in the order that create the most power.
1. Tighter clearance on the side seals (must use cut to fit side seals)
2. Street port intake and exhaust ports
3. Accessport
4. Removal of the cat.
Everything else is junk or for reliability. Sorry if this is repeat info, just figured it should have easy access.
Show me a dyno of a n/a rx8 doing 225 whp. Its just not possible with simple bolt ons
Last edited by Wind Dance; May 9, 2011 at 06:26 AM.
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From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
MM tune is performed with a Cobb Accessport with which you can read engine codes and monitor the cars parameters.
RB tune is ship them your ecu they return it asap and it's done. MM tune takes time. Log the engine parameters, send them in, tune is returned, install new tune, repeat 3/4 times.
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Here
so if I wanted a true race tune from MM I would have to log my car in order to get the proper adjustments?
do I need to buy Cobb Accessport or can I just borrow one from someone in the area and buy tuning service?
do I need to buy Cobb Accessport or can I just borrow one from someone in the area and buy tuning service?
Last edited by Nadrealista; Mar 25, 2013 at 08:30 AM.
each AP is married to the vehicle you need an access port. you can do the logging on the street late at night.
Its all degrees of perfection. On my car I got 12 hp from the RB tune, but it is above 8,000 rpm. I wanted some below that, but my car is not as lean on their generic tune as it could be.
An AP can be purchased used, but the sellor has to unmarry it from their car and you can't use MM tunes he did for them. You would then have to pay MM for the tune. Most used Cobbs go for $350, so you might as well just buy new from MM.
You also get logging, CEL resetting with the Cobb/MM package so it is worth it.
An AP can be purchased used, but the sellor has to unmarry it from their car and you can't use MM tunes he did for them. You would then have to pay MM for the tune. Most used Cobbs go for $350, so you might as well just buy new from MM.
You also get logging, CEL resetting with the Cobb/MM package so it is worth it.
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=414
and that was back in 2007, things have evolved since then ...