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DIY: Throttle body bypass mod

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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 09:20 PM
  #26  
ddub's Avatar
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Glad to know I was right about the 5/16" I had a feeling it'd fit nicely

Don't worry too much about capping it, you really don't have to. It doesn't go into anything now, before it was only the coolant anyways. Plus not a whole lot really can get in there. I mainly did it because I had them laying around and said what the heck.
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 11:57 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by samsong
Thanks for your thoughts.

Clarify: The carb heaters on the planes are on all the time, though...it's to keep it from icing during normal operation (not just start-up).

I would think the ice would form when the low-pressure around the throttle causes the watervapor to condense (ever watched an airplane at take-off and see "clouds" form on the tops of the wings?). Maybe that condensation could also freeze to a cold TB and build-up during other than WOT operation.

Again...just my speculation.
Carb heat? - check.

This should answer some questions....

http://www.eaa32.org/Articles/CarbHeat.html
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 12:37 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Nubo
Carb heat? - check.

This should answer some questions....

http://www.eaa32.org/Articles/CarbHeat.html
The problem w/relating this article to our car is that is it is about carbs, of which we have none and so the idea of..."Temperatures in the carburetor can drop 60° to 70°F (refrigerator effect) as a result of fuel vaporization and the carburetor venturi effect." doesn't occur.

Perhaps our throttle body heating is done to prevent icing still or perhaps it is only for emmisions reasons or ?????. Would be nice to really know so as to avoid some unknown change/problem that could/will show up after doing this.
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 07:38 AM
  #29  
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i'd doubt that ice could form in the rather warm engine bay, but in my mind condensation forming is a real possibility with the large pressure drop across the throttle.

FWIW, the inlet to the gas turbines at my power plant are heated at temperatures below 40-45 degrees (depending on humidity) to prevent ice forming.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 05:09 PM
  #30  
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First, carb heat on airplanes is not "always on." It reduces HP signifigantly, so the pilot only turns it on when needed. You don't cruise around when it's 95 degress out superheating your intake air.

As it relates to our cars: Any time air goes from high pressure (ambient) to low pressure (vaccum in a manifold), the temperature drops and the water comes out. Thus the air can loose a lot of temperature when it goes past the throttle plate at idle. Given the right conditions, the air can drop to freezing, water can come out and condense, and ice can block off the throttle, leading to bad idle or the engine dying.

My 1990 Eagle talon had exactly the same thing, and I think all cars today do.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 08:19 AM
  #31  
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no problems whatsoever guys...
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 09:48 AM
  #32  
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Would there be a problem installing an in line brass valve that could be truned on and off rather than bypassing the whole system?
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 10:46 AM
  #33  
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or just insert a stainless steel ball in each hose end to block flow so the stealership tech doesn't hit you with a warranty violation
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 08:23 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
or just insert a stainless steel ball in each hose end to block flow so the stealership tech doesn't hit you with a warranty violation
Who goes to the stealership? Only reason I'd go is to have something fixed under warranty, and if I do that I'll put things back to stock first.

Have not set foot back on that lot once since I bought the rx8
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 04:59 PM
  #35  
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I performed this mod and had no problems until today and it was my own fault. I used a two sided brass barb 5/16's I believe and just rerouted the hose.

Well today I noticed some steam coming up from under my hood and could smell anti freeze. I quickly popped my hood and found my modded coolant line had come undone. Why? Because I re-used the stock hose connecters and not the screw type hose clamps.

Luckily, I had two smaller ones in my tool box and quickly fixed the problem.

Motto of this story, use screw type hose clamps when performing this mod!
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 07:25 PM
  #36  
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I recently change to the 5/16 barbs and used the screw clamps. The stock ones are too weak in this type of setup.

Luckly you had this happen locally to you instead of a long trip. That would've sucked!
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Old May 3, 2006 | 04:32 PM
  #37  
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i've had this done for a while now & have had no issues yet...
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Old May 3, 2006 | 05:03 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dgrx8
i've had this done for a while now & have had no issues yet...
this will be one of the first things i do after i get my 2 free oil changes from the dealer....oh well...i can wait 5000 more miles...
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Old May 9, 2006 | 03:11 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
or just insert a stainless steel ball in each hose end to block flow so the stealership tech doesn't hit you with a warranty violation
Wouldn't this be bad, blocking the coolant flow? Or is this line just tapped from a main line?
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Old May 30, 2006 | 06:30 AM
  #40  
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Anyone thought of running a second cooling system up to those mounts and cool the intake down? Like those CPU water pumps on computers. Kinda like an intercooler. Someone with the time needs to give it a shot. If I had the time, I would. Get to working guys!
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Old May 31, 2006 | 10:38 AM
  #41  
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Did bypass yesterday. I can tell a difference already. It does not seem to run weaker after extended periods of time. A must do.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 11:19 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by turbine
Did bypass yesterday. I can tell a difference already. It does not seem to run weaker after extended periods of time. A must do.
That is exactly the same effect I have noticed in my car after doing this. It makes a big difference on hot days. On really hot days, it used to drive fine for a while, and then after a certain period of time, it would bog down and drive sluggishly. It doesn't do that now. I am just worried what the service guys will say about it.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 04:37 PM
  #43  
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I wouldn't worry about it. did u guys cap off the ends or leave them open?
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Old May 31, 2006 | 06:33 PM
  #44  
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I left the ends of the TB open. When i do connect it back I run a pipe cleaner through and then use compressed air to blow out the dust.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 06:44 PM
  #45  
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I purchased another section of hose from Autozone and attached both ends back up to the throttle body so it looks stock from above.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 07:09 AM
  #46  
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I am worried about the service guys like I am worried about yesterdays trash. There is no reason to take it to the shop, ever. Dealerships do not have the OK to touch my car. I would rather let the local high school shop class look at my car. This is a simple car, very simple. You can do everything on this car.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 08:30 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by jaguargod
I purchased another section of hose from Autozone and attached both ends back up to the throttle body so it looks stock from above.
i guess i can use this approach for safe measure w/ my dealer. i don't plan on reconnecting at all as long as i'm in miami's scorching heat.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 07:12 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by turbine
I am worried about the service guys like I am worried about yesterdays trash. There is no reason to take it to the shop, ever. Dealerships do not have the OK to touch my car. I would rather let the local high school shop class look at my car. This is a simple car, very simple. You can do everything on this car.
If you're willing to buy the parts.

It's hard to get new plugs, starter, battery, brake rotors, heat shields, etc for free unless you let the dealer install them.

I'd also love to know how you're uploading the flash in your car, since many, many of us here would pay a pretty penny to be able to do that at home ourselves
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 11:43 PM
  #49  
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Just did this today!!! It took me about 1 hour and I did it at the same time I changed my oil and today was the first time I used the K&N oil filter and Royal Purple synthetic oil! I have to say that when the car warmed up the throttle was super smooth! Normally I get hesitation and after it's warm it will start to idle irratically and drop down to about 750 rpms. When it did this it would almost feel like it was going to stall and as soon as I would get on the gas it would just slug its way forward. I noticed a huge change today. I'll test it out when the temps are a little warmer but so far I'm liking what I saw. It actually felt like it did the first 6 months again today!

Now if I see mpg gains from this I don't know what I'll do with myself... (you do know that I'm sorta kidding right? RIGHT!) I've been getting around 12-13 mpgs lately and that is just painful these days. If my problem with mpgs was related I would be ecstatic

Thanks guys now it's time for me to go take a little break...

Last edited by 93rdcurrent; Jun 10, 2006 at 11:47 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 11:42 AM
  #50  
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Well here's my update... I will start with the mpg last fill up (first one since I performed the mod) I got 12.138 mpgs!!! That's not getting better but then that's what I expected anyone but there was always that hope.

Engine is running smoother, the hp loss I was experiencing after warm up, and the hesitation are all gone!!! I haven't had those problems at all since. That is definately a step in the right direction. I guess I need to unperform the mod and head back to the dealer for the mpg problems.
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