Ash, I'm not sure about the ball bearing in the slave cylinder. It's the first I've heard of it. I simply popped out my old screw, and screwed in the speedbleeder. Not sure if there is a difference between our parts. Sorry I'm not more help.

 

I checked the US parts catalog for the 04 and they are the same as the diagram I posted...??MMmmm.

Apparently the small ball bearing will only shift if there is room for it, in other words you take out bleeder, then pump pedal with the hydraulic force unseating the ball, if you do not do this it won't move, so when you put the S Bleeder in it seats on top of the ball.

I am just wondering if this is why the replacement SB juts out longer than the original.

Do you have the old Release Cylinder Bleeder to look at the base, is it flat or pointed?.

I am getting one from a dealer to check.

The ball is only about 3.5-4mm in Diameter.

 

bringing up an old thread here.
one quick question-
there are two 7100's to choose from.
SB7100S Speed Bleeder
M7 x 1.0 x 30.22

and

SB7100 Speed Bleeder
M7 x 1.0 x 35.15

which is the right one?

 

On my 8 I have 34 mm for the 7100 which are for the master cylinder and the clutch

They do stick out further than the stock.

You could get both but I think the shorter 30 mm would work

I wouldn't want mine to stick out further than they do with the 34mm.

 

when you say 34mm one, do you mean the 35.15mm one? because i don't see any 34mm to choose from the speedbleeder website.

 

I installed mine and they had said 34mm for the 7100-ss

I see they are slightly longer.

The 7100 that I installed were considerably longer than they needed to be. The 35 will work they are just longer than thy need to be.

I believe the 30 mm should fit better.

I recommend using the ATE SL.6 for brake fluid, formulated to be thinner to get into tighter places specifically for cars with anti lock brakes and active stability control.

Shifting seem to be better since I installed the SL.6

Tirerack.com sells it, not sure who else carries it.

 

thanks for the prompt reply. will order the shorter 7100's and some ATE SL. 6

 

Anyone? I have a 2006 GT which Russell's speedbleeder do I order for the clutch release cylinder bleeder screw?
Is it 639550/ 639560 or some other.

 

Hear the answer to my above question..... See Chart

 

Just installed my RP clutch line today and OMG...what a serious PITA!...especially trying to get a clear tube on the bleeder screw. Thanks for the DIY b-nez!

 

You all iz crazy.

I don't even see how you guys would get at the bleed screw from the bottom, though I guess it is possible. But that's unnecessary, just unbolt the bracket holding the AC line above the oil filter (bracket is on the left of the master cylinder) and move that beast out of the way. I could get a 1/4" rachet on the bleeder screw no problem, and could use index and thumb to tighten/loosen the bleeder screw.

I didn't use a speedbleeder. Only took like an hour.

btw I got exactly what I wanted out of this, extremely consistent, faster shifts, and no squishy feeling.

 

hello, nice DIY. i was going to do the SS clutch line myself but im wondering if i can just swap them out and go? do i have to do the speedbleeder or bleed the clutch afterwards? anything significant i have to do after the SS clutch line swap?

 

Just do a Bleed of your Slave Cylinder...that is all, and make sure you have enough Brake Fluid in You Brake Mastercylinder Tank.

 

Yup... and be sure to watch the driver's side of the reservoir since its partitioned into two sections.
The fluid on both sides will drop about half way between the 'max' and 'min' markings, then after that the clutch side of the reservoir will continue to drop while the other side stays where its at.
The design is so if you lose hydraulics on one system, it won't affect the other.

Do your best to keep the fluid near the max and you'll be fine.

 

I bought a Speedbleeder for my clutch Makes its easier,

 

do i keep the fluid reservoir open while im bleeding and topping off or do i have to put the cap back on before i bleed????? dosent say anything abt it on the diy, just wanna make sure before i do this next weekend. PLEASE HELP!!!

 

NO you do not have to replace Cap when/while Bleeding, Just make sure you keep the fluid level up or High when bleeding, so AIR can't get into your lines while bleeding...once done, you top off and put cap back on.