SiLVeRE8

iTrader: (8)

well i didnt bleed the brake... i didnt know i was suppose to. but anyways after some driving, the clutch actually got a little stiffer and the drive is normal. everything seems to work fine and shifting did get a little smoother. so i guess its alright. thanks for the help though!

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

The brakes and clutch share the same reservoir so since you changed fluid you did bleed the brakes also I hope.

Order to bleed is:
Brake master cylinder
rear passenger caliper
rear driver caliper
front passenger caliper
front driver caliper
clutch
and last the Brake Master cylinder

SiLVeRE8

iTrader: (8)

no i did not bleed the brakes and tomorrow is the first thing i am going to do. but the weird thing is that the brakes and everything seems alright though. ill just do it to be safe.
thanks

savedsol

Why would you need to bleed the brakes if you didn't let the fluid below the "min" level? Doesn't seem necessary as long as you used the SAME brake fluid as what was in there.

Also, anyone using the Corksport line? It's only $18 compared to the Agency for $40 and Mazdaspeed for $1xx!

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

The shop manual states to bleed the master cylinder after the clutch is bled.

If a person used the same fluid I don't think it is necessary to bleed the brakes.

If you saw SiLVeRE8 changed to the Valvoline synthetic.

I can't imagine the Corksport line being much different than the Agency or Mazdaspeed, unless it has the Agency or Mazdaspeed etched on them...

04RX8VR

ok...problem...i put the hose on and everything is tight. i got the ss clutch line from rx7store.net. the bottom fitting to the hard line is leaking slowly but surely everytime i hit the clutch pedal. the car is still not out of the driveway because of this mishap. any advice?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

Go48

My guess is that you either cross threaded the fitting or the fitting is not as tight as it needs to be. Try tightening it a bit more.

04RX8VR

after hours of contemplating...we have finally reached a conclusion...defective line. it's leaking out of the steel braids into the plastic jacket and that's just not supposed to happen. so i'm sending it back tomorrow. for the record the fitting was very tight and the top worked fine. so i put the stock hose back on and it works fine now. i'll repost when i get the new line in to ensure that it is working properly. thank you for the advice though.

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

I had the same problem when I installed it on a local guy's car.

I noticed the line from RX7store had to be very very tight to the point of thinking it might strip threads.

Guess I wouldn't recommend that line if someone asked which one to buy.


(and for the record the bottom one is where the problem was with the local guy's)

savedsol

Just installed mine today plus Racing Beat brake lines. How important are those clip things? The one on the bottom just isn't happening no way no how. The hose doesn't move though. Keep trying or am I alright?

Regarding the tight metal lines. Mine all had to be broken open with vise grips. The 10mm open wrench would just round them out. Just a tip for all you out there.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Are you talking about the clip on the SS hose ?

If yes, then take the hose out and look at the bolt, then you'll know that its not really a HEX bolt with 6 corners, insteads its more like 5 corners plus a rounded side.

So when you insert them, just turn the hose until it goes in perfectly. YOU NEED THE CLIP to hold it in place. do NOT run without the clips.

when you try to break the metal line loose, dont just keep pulling it and pulling it. you'll round them up, what I did was I put my wrench in, then I use my screw driver (or something a bit heavy), hit the wrench counter-clockwise fast and lightly, got them loose with just a few hits.

and when you use the tools, MAKE SURE its really the right size and within the spec, I have 2 10mm wrench, one was from my father's old tools, the other one I just brought it new couple weeks ago. The old one is more like a 10.5mm wrench because its just a bit bigger, not perfect fit, the one I bought was a perfect fit. at first when I use my father's one I was like hmm wtf ? It should be perfect fit with no extra movements, then when I use my new one I was like ahhh ...... so just make sure your tools are within the spec.

savedsol

Thanks for the reply - guess I'll keep working at it. My tools are in spec, it's just that 10mm nut is made of something really soft. I'll have to take a look those 11/16 nuts and look for the rounded side, never noticed it.

savedsol

Firstly, I got it in - whew. On a side note for all of you who buy the Racing Beat clutch line there isn't a rounded side on the 11/16 fitting.

Secondly, when pumping the clutch do you leave the pedal at the floor before closing the speed bleeder or do you pull it up and then close it. Adding these two bits to the DIY would be nice too.

Thanks for all the help!

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

I would pull it up before closing it.

From what I have read it is best not to go all the way to the floor, but to stop just before going all the way.

Pump it slowly.

savedsol

I left it at the floor and closed it. That's the general practice for non-speed bleeders. Works just fine although I've only put about 7 miles on it. My new Hawk HP+ are unbelievable though. My 245/40 RE-01R are overwhelmed by their power

My new problem is why does the board log me off every 10 minutes and not remember my password!

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

You probably didnt get my meaning. But doesnt matter, you got it in so its all good.

I will just take my brake hose back out tomorrow and take a picture, then you'll know what Im talking about :P

savedsol

Which part? My hex wasn't rounded and my tools are kosher. I looked at the old brake and clutch hoses and you can trust me the Racing Beat is not rounded.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Grrr, mine was racing beat too :P Its all Good Ridge anyway. maybe they're changed the production line, who knows.

Im in the process of changing radiator (DIY later of course, damn its a bitch to replace it) , took some pictures of the brakes already. will update my post later.

kennyfrc1

iTrader: (6)

I installed the RP clutch hose this weekend and it drives much better than before. The only problem with it is that the fittings on the new cable are different. The Factory mazda part has a rounded side so that the molded rubber hose is properly indexed into the bracket. The SS hose is a 11/16" nut all the way around with no rounded side. This prevents the cable from properly seating into the bracket and gives off a faint rattle on accelleration between idle and 5k rpm. The horse shoe clips are very tight and the cable will not move, but does rattle from engine vibration. Has anyone else experienced this? I hate freakin rattles!!! I have modified the lower bracket which is slotted and removed the rounded side by drilling out the spot welds and cutting it off with a dremel. This allowed proper seating of the lower side and reduced the noise by 50%. I really dont want to open the system back up to do the upper half and was wandering if any of you come up with a ghetto fix. Keep in mind this is VERY faint and can only be heard driving with the windows up, AC on lowest setting, and radio off. I am just **** about things being perfect. Any help would be appreciated.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

this is exactly what Im talking about. the rounded side.

but for some *reason* mine just fit. and I left it there.

Im going to get the FEED's big clutch release and it comes with another hose, and I think it will be a perfect fit. then Im gonna replace it again.

SebtownRx8

Without using the speed bleeder do you just let the fluid drain out the drain plug or what? trying to do this just dont want air pockets in the lines.

Senna

you want to attach a hose and fluid tank so the fluid doesn't get all over the place.

SebtownRx8

Just a FYI the bleeder screw is the worst thing on the whole install took me 2 hours to bleed and de-air the line just cause its a Pain in the *** to get a wrench on. but you also can get a socket wrench on it when you all done bleeding to close it. big pain.

Demon8

can i get the info on the ms clutch line also?

ASH8

Hi, OP!.

I have a question, I am replacing all brake and clutch Bleed screws to SS Speedbleeders...I have done the Brakes, No problem.

Now to the Clutch Release Cylinder (Slave), the Series I and II have the same Release Cylinder, the only difference is access is a little easier as S2's don't have the oil filter in the way.

MY question is , the Speed-bleeder (7mm) SB7100-SS has a sharp pointed end which seats to shut off fluid, just like the Brake Speed Bleeders.
BUT, the Clutch Release Cylinder is a little different, they have a small steel ball bearing that actually shuts off fluid flow as the bleeder end sits on the round steel ball.

I am not sure what to do here because if I use the SB from SB.com with the point will I run into any problems trying to seat the Steel Ball, or leaks, or do you remove the steel ball before you install the new bleeder?

I have enclose a Parts Diagram of the 2003 RX-8 (all RX-8's are the same).

You can see the small ball bearing that goes in before the Bleeder Screw and the original Bleeder Screw appears to have a more flatten/rounded end.

Without perhaps removing the steel ball maybe the reason why some of you note that the Bleeder stick out a long way when compared to the Mazda one?.

Having said that I am not sure if the round ball comes out easily or should be removed.

All the Brake Calipers on the RX-8 do not have any type of steel ball before the Bleeder, they are pointed like the Speedbleeder.com ones.

Any suggestions