Guess I won't need a new crush washer now that I just installed a brass drain valve.

Oil changed to Castrol GTX 5w-30 and Mazda filter of course.

 

The DIY isn't clear, and I'm a complete newbie, so I want to clarify. The instructions say to let the car cool for a few minutes, does that imply that you should warm the car up first? Is there anything wrong with changing the oil while the car completely cold?

 

I like to change my oil when the car is warm. The reason is warm oil drains faster then oil that is cold. The instructions state you should let the car cool for a few minutes because the engine is hot and they do not want you to burn yourself. I like to wear a crappy sweatshirt to protect my arms when replacing my oil filter. Also when you take the drain plug out the oil is hot and could burn you if you do not let cool or wearing the proper protection.

 

There were a few threads over the past year that talked about oil extractors. There was actually one post early in this one, but just one. I went and bought one, and thought I would share...

I got the yellow electric one of ebay. I offered less than the asking price, and they took it. I got it a few weeks later. I can tell you that on the 8, it is grand. No washer, no under the car, no jack, I get as much oil out as I did before. The fact that the car is now an inch lower makes this all the more wonderful.

It is so easy that I am considering trying an oil flush, or at least a partial flush. It would involve changing the oil (pump out, refill), then run the car for 10 minutes (mix old and new oil), let sit to drain filter, then change again with filter.

First change should get rid of 4 quarts of dirty oil, and leave about 2.5 in the coolers and lines. So oil is about a third dirty. The next change should get rid of half of the third dirty oil, leaving only a little of the original dirty oil, or something like that.

That make any sense?

On the topic of the pump.... I had to change the master cylinder on the expedition, 32 ounces of brake fluid. hooked it up instead of the little hand pump brake bleeder. Freaking WOW. It will pull about 5 inches of vacuum. Enough for the big lines on the Ford. Did not do so well with the little lines on the 6. Will see on the 8 next time around.

 

That looks like it sticks down kind of low?
I would be worried about debris on the road smacking it and opening the valve.
What do you think?

 

This is AKA Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, I have one my my car... makes oil changes soo much faster, unfortunately my car is still too low to be able to reach it by hand and to have the oil pan under the car because my car would crush the oil pan lol. I still have to jack my car up but this makes it so much better than having to actually put the car on stands and break loose the drain plug.

If you are Stock height this valve will allow you to reach under your car and open the valve with your hand with the drain pan underneath you car. Oil change should take 5 minutes...

 

^ Yup; I'm at stock height and all I had to do was reach under and flip the spring-loaded Fumoto valve lever (low profile oil drain pan). Easiest oil change ever!

btw: I did it cold for a change and I must say having a dry oil filter on a Series I is a big plus in the cleanliness department. Of course it took quite awhile for the oil to drain (cold and smaller valve orifice), so I changed my daughter's Mazda6 'plugs.

 

Not really. The Series I aft O2 sensor shield, forward of and in-line with the valve is lower, so no worries. It would take the perfect storm of impact to turn the spring-loaded/detent valve lever.

 

Okay... I still cannot find the oil filter and it's been 3 hours, I have a 2008 RX8 Sport. I have looked for manuals (chilton, Haynes) and found nothing. I also cannot locate any good pdf's showing location of parts on the vehicle.

My old vehicle was a 1993 Jeep wrangler that had the oil filter down low and was about 2x the size of my fist and white, aka obvious. So going from that to the mazda with it's small filter I'm assuming on the left side of the engine but I get it from the top side? Also any pictures I see seem very close up and it's hard to tell where that's at still other than the one on this site which shows that it's near the air filter?

So my question is do any of you guys know of some pictures on the internet that show the RX8 filter with a wider view?

Also is the only paper repair manual around the one that cost a whopping $200? That's only 1,000 percent more than the cost of my jeep manual... literally.

Thank you for your time,
Cheese

 

^lol, pop open your hood, now stand on the drivers side of the engine bay locate the throttle body, now look down just a lil futher to where the coils are at, then to the right of that should be the oil filter.

 

http://oi52.tinypic.com/2myzvdk.jpg
http://oi55.tinypic.com/xpd0ep.jpg
http://oi51.tinypic.com/wcmiio.jpg

I also would like to add that this is a automatic if it makes a difference. The only thing I see down there is the starter and solenoid.

 

See if this helps. Item 1 in the attached drawing. Between the back of the engine and the firewall.

 

If I remember correctly, it's the little green thing behind the UIM.
I've circled it in red



If not that, then it's near that.

 

This looks like a series 2 motor in the pictures (see dipstick location & design). Important distinction. On the series 2 motors the filter is not up top, but has been relocated and is accessed under the car after removing the aluminum shield. It is located on the driver side of the motor towards the front. It is a bit awkward to see and get to, as it is surrounded by an engine casting on one side and frame member on the other. But, it is easy enough to replace with the proper filter cap tool.

Here are some pictures :

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=161
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=259
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...43&postcount=1

 

The green object was actually something else; Pete was correct, it is a series II motor. Thank you for all the feedback and pictures.

The only problem now is I put 2 quarts in and the dip says it has 3-3.5 liters? Must be because I drained it on some auto ramps, still not used to this whole car thing... my jeep was lifted 6 inches and had 33 inch tires... never had to think of ways to crawl underneath. Not only that but when I used a jack it bent my chassis slightly X.x.. not bad but just a little.

 

Some people use "race ramps", while others use jack stands. I use a small floor jack on the front crossmember (there's a bump with a hole in the middle as an indicator), then support it on 2 jackstands at the front factory jack points on each side. These are indicated by the reinforced lip underneath the rocker panels, with little cutout indicators on the backside of the lip. These jack points are not immediately obvious. Owner's manual shows the general locations, and I believe there are detailed pictures elsewhere on this site.

 

I want to run synthetic oil, I would think it is even more important to remove all of the old oil when changing oil type. What I am wondering is if there is anything more I can do to remove all of the existing oil before I make the switch and also is there anything else I need to know before doing this. I have read all of the stuff about elavating the front of the vehicle etc to drain oil coolers so what I am talking about is beyond that, what can I do?

 

Anyone use an oil filter magnet? Wondering if it's worth the money... http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...rrivals&page=1

Also, do the 2009+ Mazda brand oil filters work with the 04-08 models? Planning to buy some OEM filters in bulk and would like to know if the new larger ones fit our older models.

Any reputable online dealers for the Fumoto drain valves? I just ran into this one on google... http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Se...ts.asp?Cat=307

Thanks

 

^ I've debated using a filter magnet. It certainly couldn't hurt, but given 3k mile oil changes not really necessary. Seems to me it would be most advantageous on a brand new engine.

There's very limited space around the 2004-2008 oil filter so doubtful a larger one would work. Just get the series-1 in bulk from say finishlineperformance.com (aka Rosenthal Mazda; forum sponsor).

That's where I got my Fumoto valve. http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Se...ts.asp?Cat=307
Make sure to get the extension coupling cited.

 

I remember installing a larger Fram/Purolator brand filter once... but I guess the OEM should do just fine Thanks.

 

http://www.shopfiltermag.com/products.php

 

Nice post, I think it so important to change your own oil, I do mine about every 4,000 miles rather then 3,000 as the car is doing a lot of miles so I still end up doing it every 2-3 months. Definitely remember to oil the filter seal I forgot first time and had to smash of the top of the filter get down to the solid metal base the places a screwdriver bit in one of the holes, put a long bar against it then beat the #*&% out of it with a hammer after about 50 blows the remains of the filter finally turned.

 

I take mine to Jiffylube. I hate to be oily.

 

I used an oil extractor yesterday (Mityvac) and got almost 4 liters (probably 3.9 L) oil out of the engine. Not bad, and the process was really simple. I let it sit for a few minutes after pumping out the oil and I didn't even get any oil spilled when removing the filter.
Altogether it was really easy, although access to the filter is a bit tricky, especially if you have big hands to put on the filter cap wrench. But if you got the proper extensions and a swivel joint, it is no problem.

 

First time I had a oil change after I got my 8 was at walmart, second time was by myself. Difference between walmart and me was that I waited to remove the oil filter. They removed it and got oil on the engine. For about 2 months I could just smell it cooking off the engine.

Took me around maybe an hour and a half to do the oil change myself because I could not get enough leverage loosen the drain plug. Walmart had tightend the drain plug so tight that crush washer was one with the plug. I did the oil on gravel. Dug a hole for the catch pan and room for a 18in ratchet for leverage.