It's simply quicker and therefore more cost effective for those shops to use the 'vacuum.' Since time is not as much of an issue to DIY I say drain it.

 

pics helped alot with the oil change... thanx

 

Hey guys!

3 days ago i bought me a 2004 Rx8 after some extensive research on this site. I've read a ton about the oil and there seems to be a lot of debate on what weight to use and whether synthetic is safe. I called the dealership and asked them all of the questions I've been meaning to ask. In order to not void my extended warranty, I stuck with what they recommend. I bought 4 quarts of Catrol GTX 5w20 oil. I used this thread to get the job done. After i changed the oil i noticed some strange smells, furthermore, now, when I'm in gear, there is a weird scraping sound. I let the oil settle in, and went for a drive 30 min after filling her up with 3 and 3/4s of the bottles. I let the car warm with 5 min of idling and 10 min of driving. When i got home, i revved the engine in the driveway and when i let off the gas it makes a strange popping sound, perhaps afterfire? I'm 90% sure the transmission sound and the popping were not present before the oil change. What gives? any ideas?

 

I just tackled my first oil change and I wish I had read this thread first. It seems I did everything right. great pics as well.

 

btw: an aside, but be glad we're changing oil on RX-8's and not Mazda6's. I did my daughter's ''6 this weekend and it's a PITA. First you have to remove a full under engine shroud that has eight screws in it. Then you have to get way under (what looks like it should be the oil sump near the filter is actually the AT fluid). Then the filter is a canister type (first year 2.3L model) and not near the oil pan drain so you have to reposition the drain pan. Could be the last time I do this.

 

/\ Well you are the lucky ones, we Series II owners have to remove a 7 long bolt aluminum Sump Guard to get to the oil filter..to replace it..

 

I changed the oil and filter for the first time on my ’09 last month. Here’s what I do.

I park the car so that the front end is a little lower than the back because the drain is more forward than in most other cars.

Jack up the left side of the car. I use three 4X4 blocks of wood as my safety stands under the front suspension sub frame bolts. I’ll try to remember to take pictures next time.

I remove six of the seven sump guard bolts and swing the guard to the rear. This makes it easier to put the bolts back into the guard after you are finished working. You don’t have to hold and lineup the guard while trying to find the holes for the bolts

Using the “official” Mazda oil filter for the new ’09 filter, I put a little motor oil on the inside of the filter so that it can easily slide off after the filter is loosened initially. There’s not much clearance on the ’09 to remove the filter with the wrench attached.

I use a very low profile socket wrench as well due to the lack of clearance between the filter wrench and the frame of the car.

I remove the 8mm drain pug.

I lower the car so that it’s level for about ten minutes to help as much as possible for all the oil to drain out. Then I jack it back up and button everything up.

 

i just read the manual and saw on the racing beat website that the oil change should be done every 6months or 7500 miles (whichever comes first) is this true? I was under the impression that the oil change on any car should be done every 3 months/3000 miles. Can anyone clarify this for me?

 

This has already been "clarified" to death, but one more time ....

The 6 months/7500 miles is the 'by the book' service increment [for warranty adherence]. We enthusiasts view that as a worst case scenario and therefore opt for the 3k miles.

Ultimately the decision is yours.

 

Is this still correct? I agree with the any larger/different diameter filter will NOT fit, but are the Series II still forced to use the Mazda oil filter, or just any filter specifically made for our car. Thought Ash was saying only the Mazda filter would work, but any made for '09s specifically should work, right? Hopefully the point was that we couldn't use larger filters that hold more volume, not that we were restricted to the Mazda specific filter

 

Why would you not use Mazda oil filters regardless of year car? We can't be talking more than a dollar or so for this critical item vs some aftermarket stuff.

???

 

Look, the S1 filter will fit or even the Mobil M1110, but, I am almost certain that none of these two have a high enough By Pass Value rating...I know an S1 definitely does not, as for the Mobil, well it also suits other Mazda's made 15 years ago, and the 09 was not out then, and if it was OK then why didn't Mazda use a filter they already had in stock??(JEY0-14-3029A)

The Mobil's M1110 and similar are the filter for Mazda MPV, 323,929, B Series (JEY0-14-3029A)...not an 09 RX-8.

I suggest you ONLY use the N3R1-14-302 which has been SPECIFICALLY Made for the S2 09 ONLY...and new 16X.

A larger Diameter Filter will NOT fit on an 09..

The Main Point is any other Filter made DOES NOT have the Correct (high) BY Pass rating of 20-26 PSI, most are half that.

I somehow doubt any other Manufacturer would make a similar filter for a CAR the sells 400 a month ...world wide.

 

like that is going to happen?

beers

 

Care to put some $$'s on it??...

 

i would bet 10 us dollars. worth about 50 cents on the world market right now.

i really hope it does, as it might solve my what to do with my other car in the driveway..

if you have any interesting links i would love to see them.. i am pretty sure you know my email!

you have to start setting up the party at bretts!

beers

 

Thanks for the clarification Ash. Reading through all the posts and your original post on the '09 filter made it sound that it was specifically a size/will it fit issue, not a BY Pass rating issue. Installed the Mazda filter yesterday so all should be good.
Compared the stock filter with a couple others at the local parts store that were listed as compatible and the aftermarkets were the same diameter, but shorter, thus less volume and probably not as good because of that as well.

 

HELLLLLP !!
I install the greddy oil filter relocation kit...I turn the car on.... and while warming, I heard "CHTAK" !!
I turn off the car and have oil all over the engine (and the floor)

Ok, so what broke : the screw where the oil filter used to be broke into the greddy "plate".
I do not know why ... I might have done something wrong (the oil pressure at iddle was 5psi instead of 2).

My questions : where can I buy this part ? what is the name of this part ?
I hope to fix it as soon as possible !

 

/\ I suggest put go back to Original Oil Filter Install...

IMO, and what has been shown in another thread extra oil lines are "reducing" your Oil Pressure.

If you must relocate your Oil Filter, I would be doing the Oil Pressure Upgrade...see Olddragger's post on his upgrade results.

 

I can't go back to the Original anyway : as long as I do not replace the broken part :'(
I'll search the OD's thread

 

the oil plug is stripped!! ...how do i get it out now??...FML

 

subscribed. Finally going to not be lazy and do this myself. Save some cash.

 

Noob question. My car has been in winter storage for the last 4 months. Do I have to warm the car up first to change the oil. Or since its bone cold, can I just simply go to work on the oil change. To me it doesnt make sense to start it up, warm it, let it cool, then start.

 

^ Just drain it. As you indicated it makes no sense to circulate the oil only to then drain it. At the moment you've got as much oil in the pan as you possibly can, so great time to just drain it. [presuming series I] the filter is as dry as it can be as well which makes things easier.

 

Do I really need a new crush washer? My dealership dont have them in stock. And I'd like to get this done this weekend. Can I reuse the old one? If not what size of washer can I substitute for it? I'm guessing I can find a washer that will fit.

 

^ Nope, Although it's a good idea to go with a new one, if your existing is in good shape it should be fine. Heck, you'll be changing it again in 3k miles anyway.

btw: I get a half dozen filters at a time from Finishline and Tommy always includes the washers.