DIY: Replace your Radiator (aftermarket or OEM, both the same)
#51
Registered
Greetings
Thomas
#52
16. After all the brackets come off, you should be able to slid the Radiator out. Notice : You should be very careful, because remember your A/C Condenser still hanging in the air, and your old radiator's top hose connector might come in contact with the back of the A/C condenser, if you apply too much force it might break it. so just be very careful.
17. When the old radiator is out, take the plastic groove from the bottom and top OUT, and install it to your new Radiator. (See Picture, Old radiator and New Radiator) and transfer WHATEVER you can from your old radiator to your new radiator, including all the FAN shrouds, foam on the side, etc.
18. After that, just install everything back in reverse order.
Thats all folks.
Is a bit confusing but .... if you have any ? please just ask me, pm or reply to this post.
17. When the old radiator is out, take the plastic groove from the bottom and top OUT, and install it to your new Radiator. (See Picture, Old radiator and New Radiator) and transfer WHATEVER you can from your old radiator to your new radiator, including all the FAN shrouds, foam on the side, etc.
18. After that, just install everything back in reverse order.
Thats all folks.
Is a bit confusing but .... if you have any ? please just ask me, pm or reply to this post.
Very nice write up!. thank you for doing it because it made mine possible, you rock
#53
OPL Aftermarket Radiator
If anyone plans to buy the OPL all aluminum radiator. You may want to think again. I ordered one and finally went to swap it, because my stock radiator stem on top deteriorated and crumbled apart. So all metal so I won't have to do it ever again, the only problem with the OPL ones are, the radiator brackets that sit on the two bolts of the car to sit in place on the top side are way to short. I couldn't even fit the nut on the bracket platform because of the edging of the top radiator tank. The picture below is not the OPL one, but to show what brackets I'm talking about. The nut won't fit on the bracket due to the edging. Also the other problem with this is if you notice yourself taking out the stock RX8 one, you'll see the spacing that allows the condenser to sit apart from the radiator. The stock radiator has built on spacers to bolt the condenser on, and the OPL one doesn't, so you'll have to make a trip to the hardware store for some metal or nylon spacers. This way your condenser and radiator are spaced properly. Besides that it's still nice, but for the bracket problem and nut not fitting, I actually had to weld on more metal and make a new hole to fit it on properly. I couldn't get the picture to work right now, but will be up soon shortly.
#56
Former Sponsor
Just to clarify the CSF is a dual row not a dual pass radiator.
This is a dual pass:
Ultimate Performance Radiator by RX-8 Performance | RX8Performance.com
This is a dual pass:
Ultimate Performance Radiator by RX-8 Performance | RX8Performance.com
#57
I heard a myth that i have yet to find an answer to does the A/T radiator work on the MT with no issue? Buddy of mines top nipple broke off and hes looking into junk yard options of rads but only finds AT versions and we heard the myth and the junk yard guy agreed but you can never trust someone at a junk yard trying to sell you parts
The following users liked this post:
nycgps (07-07-2017)
#59
I heard a myth that i have yet to find an answer to does the A/T radiator work on the MT with no issue? Buddy of mines top nipple broke off and hes looking into junk yard options of rads but only finds AT versions and we heard the myth and the junk yard guy agreed but you can never trust someone at a junk yard trying to sell you parts
#60
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
#61
Water Foul
#62
#63
Water Foul
AT radiators usually have thicker cores, so the difference is slight.
Why buy a junk yard radiator, when a new one is under $60?
2007 MAZDA RX-8 1.3L R2 Radiator | RockAuto
2007 MAZDA RX-8 1.3L R2 Radiator | RockAuto
#64
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
If you click the RockAuto link and then the info button for both mt and at radiators you'll see that's not correct; both are listed as 1" core, which is the series 1 OE core width ( Series 2 is approx. 1.375"). Pretty sure the at version just adds a pipe loop in the bottom collection header (after cooling) with an inlet and outlet fitting. So in theory on a mt car it would basically be identical because that little AT pipe loop likely has no impact when it's not being used.
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Last edited by TeamRX8; 07-16-2017 at 03:00 PM.
#68
Registered
So in a sense it has to work twice as hard as the MT Radiator or is it literally just a small difference in fluid capacity because i really dont want to put this in this guys car if hes gunna have to go out and change it soon he bought the rad from a junk yard for 75 and the koyo and mishimoto MT rads are 250+ depending where you look
#69
$60/hr thats damn near unheard of.
#70
Yonaka Dual Core Radiator with Dual Fans
This Radiator seems pretty legit, as far as "other brands" go. I found it for an incredible deal on Andys Autosport. However I cannot find nay reviews or relvant information regarding their application and efficiency in an RX8. Before i take the risk, has anyone ever heard of, used or have any pertinent info regarding this setup? Its a little thicker than the CSF, and .3 thicker than stcok core width. says flows 200& more coolant, but again, they can say anything.
any info is appreciated.
https://www.yonaka.com/2004_2008_Maz...r-rx8-0408.htm
any info is appreciated.
https://www.yonaka.com/2004_2008_Maz...r-rx8-0408.htm
#72
#74
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Not really. Minor variances at best.
As noted above, the S2 radiator is slightly wider than the S1. So be sure at get one with the correct width. Probably doesn’t matter as far as R&R goes, but the car will be less likely to have cooling issues with the larger capacity. The S2 radiator appears to be a direct fit on an S1. One of the shroud bolts at the top won’t line up, but it doesn’t hurt anything to leave it off.
I only say “should” be a direct fit because I didn’t have all the stuff at the front that comes from the factory; the intake and tray, the battery, etc. also built and used a different fan/shroud setup for my racing purposes. I did test fit the S1 fan shroud to it and it does mount exactly the same in the S1. Being only 3/8” wider I’d expect the S2 radiator to fit, even if might take making some minor adjustments. There are wider S1 replacement radiators that fit fine.
As noted above, the S2 radiator is slightly wider than the S1. So be sure at get one with the correct width. Probably doesn’t matter as far as R&R goes, but the car will be less likely to have cooling issues with the larger capacity. The S2 radiator appears to be a direct fit on an S1. One of the shroud bolts at the top won’t line up, but it doesn’t hurt anything to leave it off.
I only say “should” be a direct fit because I didn’t have all the stuff at the front that comes from the factory; the intake and tray, the battery, etc. also built and used a different fan/shroud setup for my racing purposes. I did test fit the S1 fan shroud to it and it does mount exactly the same in the S1. Being only 3/8” wider I’d expect the S2 radiator to fit, even if might take making some minor adjustments. There are wider S1 replacement radiators that fit fine.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 08-05-2019 at 12:06 PM.
#75
New Member
Thank you !!
Just want to say "THANK YOU" .. like many others here, have already.
I'm a YouTube learner. Usually. Every video that I found, made it too complicated to even have the video on standby .. let alone, attempt to do as they instructed.
Take everything apart, bumper included .. in lieu of the brief instruction that you showed here.
I will say, I couldn't get the pictures blown up .. for some reason. Just black screen when clicking. I 'm using a tablet. BUT your post was so well written .. that's all I needed, anyway.
One 58,000 mile original Anniversary 2008 MT RX8 has returned to the street. Well .. almost anyway. I have to hunt for one missing lower middle plastic panel bolt, & purchase new plastic push rivets, & plastic screw/push fasteners.
With the exception, of the new aluminum KOYO radiator .. you can't even tell it was apart. Even gave me a chance to wash underneath all the removed parts. Yeahhh' .. maybe a little ****, but the car is so clean .. no harm in being cleaner.
One casualty was the fender side ECU bolt nursery dropped out. So next weekend's search is ECU removal to re-insert & bond that nursert back. Hope there is a post on this forum for that. Can't have an empty bolt hole. I love original cars !! I won't be the dumb*ss to change it.
Thanks again !!!!! I so appreciate it !!
I'm a YouTube learner. Usually. Every video that I found, made it too complicated to even have the video on standby .. let alone, attempt to do as they instructed.
Take everything apart, bumper included .. in lieu of the brief instruction that you showed here.
I will say, I couldn't get the pictures blown up .. for some reason. Just black screen when clicking. I 'm using a tablet. BUT your post was so well written .. that's all I needed, anyway.
One 58,000 mile original Anniversary 2008 MT RX8 has returned to the street. Well .. almost anyway. I have to hunt for one missing lower middle plastic panel bolt, & purchase new plastic push rivets, & plastic screw/push fasteners.
With the exception, of the new aluminum KOYO radiator .. you can't even tell it was apart. Even gave me a chance to wash underneath all the removed parts. Yeahhh' .. maybe a little ****, but the car is so clean .. no harm in being cleaner.
One casualty was the fender side ECU bolt nursery dropped out. So next weekend's search is ECU removal to re-insert & bond that nursert back. Hope there is a post on this forum for that. Can't have an empty bolt hole. I love original cars !! I won't be the dumb*ss to change it.
Thanks again !!!!! I so appreciate it !!
Last edited by kidcampbell71; 08-31-2020 at 07:22 AM.