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DIY: Replace A/C Condenser

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Old 06-20-2011, 03:52 PM
  #26  
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Followed your DIY. I found the leak myself but thought I might add some info if you don't know how to do a/c. To find the leak I used UV leak detectant, and a household big blacklight. I learned the best way to detect a leak is inside a garage with the doors closed. After I filled up my car with freon and uv detectant I ran it, looked under hood and in front condenser and found no leak. I turned off my car and heard a hissing sound. It was coming from my a/c condenser. It was hard to spot the hole as it was very small and had very little yellow showing, but the hissing helped. I tried this before but it was outside and I didn't hear the hissing. Very big help being inside quite garage. Other than this I found your DIY to be excellent. Thanks for your help expo.
Old 07-12-2011, 07:35 AM
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Condenser replacement - good price?

Hi there,

I recently purchased a 2006 'Evolve' which was perfect except for the lack of cold air con. I had it re-gassed but the problem quickly returned, though the re-gas company did thankfully use dyed gas.
I took it back yesterday, whereby they showed me evidence of the dye showing on the condenser.
All seems legit, and they have quoted me £257 to supply & fit a new condenser, together with another re-gas.

Should I go for this?

Thanks,
Alex.
Old 08-13-2011, 01:53 PM
  #28  
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AC condensor

I want to replace my ac condensor and your D.I.Y. looks all too simple. My 8 has over 100k and my condensor looks like it has seen better days. I do not know if I have a leak or not, my ac is ok, but not great. I've check the freon and it seems full, even though I've had my car since 05 and never changed the freon. I do not want to take it to the dealer so that they can check it for 5 mins and then charge me $120 for all that (Thats robbery!!!).

So my questions are: What would happen if I remove the condensor with r134a still in it? Would it start spraying everywhere and/or how would I empty out the r134a properly? You've also said to have the system purged, what do you mean by that?

Originally Posted by expo1
Now you need to go to a shop and have the air that entered the system purged and the system charged with r134a and if needed compressor oil.

Costs:
Aftermarket condenser $210
Purge / Recharge $150
Rivets & o-rings $13
Opt Screen $60
Total Cost $433

If you were not sure the condenser was the problem there could be a diagnostic charge. This depends on whether or not you’re in warranty. The dealer should at least tell you for free that the problem was the condenser. The fee from a local shop will also vary from one garage to another.
So far I only used the A/C once and it worked fine so going with a NON-Mazda condenser should not be a problem. I did look into a used OEM one but the price was not that much better than the new aftermarket one. I also suggest not ordering the condenser over the net. I ran into a problem with one site that claimed to have one in stock, but didn’t and didn’t even update their site after giving me a refund. Order the condenser over the phone.
Old 08-14-2011, 02:11 PM
  #29  
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Ok Smurfy, If your system is still cooling then you have 134 in the A/C system and will need to bleed it out cause it will spray out and can burn you.
You can vent to the atmosphere but it is highly illegal in many places and needs to be recovered in a A/C machine.
Purging an A/C system is basically pulling a vaccum on the ac with a special pump to remove all of the air which has water, various gases, and can damage the parts of your ac unit and compressor.
Replace condenser assy, all orings, evacuate the system, and recharge. I would also replace the dryer assy which collects the crap from the A/C system and can fail.
Old 08-15-2011, 11:06 AM
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Do you mean the reciever drier?
Old 02-21-2013, 01:36 AM
  #31  
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Got this today:
A/C Condenser - Parallel flow, Aluminum 2004 Mazda RX-8 Kool Vue RX-8 Kool Vue
Part #: KVAC3384

$48.74 (sic! - not a typo) at JC Whitney

Here's pics:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8102/8...83972083_o.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8526/8...4e37e953_o.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8388/8...1a457b68_o.jpg

Will try to install this w/e.

Anyone installed these or have experience with Kool Vue products?
Old 02-23-2013, 10:48 PM
  #32  
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Thank you Expo for very nice write-up!

It took me about 1 1/2 hours to do it.

Here's what I used:

1) A/C Condenser - Parallel flow, Aluminum 2004 Mazda RX-8 Kool Vue RX-8 Kool Vue
Price: $48.74 at JC Whitney
Part #: KVAC3384

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8388/8...1a457b68_o.jpg

2) HNBR O-Ring 24-Piece Kit by Interdynamics (part#ORNG-1) / AC Gaskets & Seals
$5 at O'Reilly

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8236/8...fe17a1d3_o.jpg

You actually need only two.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8110/8...94018a8d_o.jpg

Smaller one for left/small hose:
6.07mm x 1.78mm (hair too small) , Mazda Part # W257-61-J17
As you can see HNBR version just a hair too small compared to Mazda part, I used it anyway as I do not think it's a big deal.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8514/8...b8183f8c_o.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8...b5879ce5_o.jpg

And a bit bigger one for right one:
10.8mm x 2.4mm (exact size) , Mazda Part # W326-61-J17

Local Mazda dealership wanted $12 per each - what a ripoff!

Somehow Expo's part numbers did not worked.
Here's newer/update ones from Mazda:
W326-61-J17
W257-61-J17

3) Rivets/clip Mazda Part # BC1D-56-145
$2.12 x 8 , total $16.96 at Dublin Mazda

This can be bought online - will be twice as cheap.

I used air compressor to test new AC condenser and old one.
Pumped 30psi to the new one and made sure it holds pressure for ~3 mins.
Old was sipping air and it was quite clear where rock hit it.

I would definitely install protection screen but could not find anything cheap.
Condenser is fully exposed and I'm surprised it lasted that long!

Will take it to she shop next week for proper recharge, hope it will last

Last edited by _Alex_; 02-23-2013 at 10:53 PM.
Old 10-30-2021, 04:36 AM
  #33  
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I'm terribly sorry to bring this old thread back from its tomb but since I can't yet open a new thread myself:

In the FSM's I've read that you need the Mazda SST (tool) 49-N061-0A0 to remove and reinstall certain AC lines but that tool is like 230$, is it needed at all?
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