DIY: Removing VFAD
Any infromation on removing what looks like a chamber on the left (driver) side of the intake. (Its a 4"x4"x2" estimate looking plastic chamber connecting to the intake between the MAF and the TB. Looks like a brake fluid cap sized hole if i removed it) I capped the VFAD line right in front of this "chamber", before the check valve and TB. Plan on removing the whole system this saturday and just was wondering what removing this "chamber" would do?? My VFAD lines dont run like in the previous schematic post but functionally I believe its the same.
EDIT: air pulse damper is what i think that chamber im talking about is called. From a fluid dynamics point of view I can;t see why they would put a empty chamber on the side of the intake?????
EDIT: air pulse damper is what i think that chamber im talking about is called. From a fluid dynamics point of view I can;t see why they would put a empty chamber on the side of the intake?????
Last edited by Scarslett; Jul 30, 2009 at 12:58 PM.
By not introducing vacuum back into the VFAD line, the valve stays open at all times.
It is really used to reduce engine noise below 5500rpm.
At 5500rpm the valve opens to allow a 2nd air inlet into the intake.
Some people claim to feel a difference, but I believe that the increase sound makes it appear that the car is moving faster.
It is really used to reduce engine noise below 5500rpm.
At 5500rpm the valve opens to allow a 2nd air inlet into the intake.
Some people claim to feel a difference, but I believe that the increase sound makes it appear that the car is moving faster.
I capped my VFAD after work yesterday and i can tell a little different in loudness and just a hint of better throttle response. It's a nice little tweak i guess to put on the roster yaaa meannn
Finally did this today...no lag as it opens anymore. Seems like better throttle response, and a little faster rev. I dont think it got any louder, but the tone definatly changed for the better.
The VFAD valve doesn't have a position switch like the SSV and VDI.
Same reason why people who have aftermarket intakes like the AEM and MS don't receive a CEL since they completely remove the whole VFAD assembly.
There is no valve behind the throttle body.
But as long as you capped the nipple behind the TB, you're all good.
The hoses can be removed along with the vacuum chamber and solenoid if you want.
Zip-tie the wire harness for the solenoid somewhere off to the side.
Or you can just remove the hoses between the vacuum chamber and the upper intake manifold (has a own-way valve on it).
But as long as you capped the nipple behind the TB, you're all good.
Zip-tie the wire harness for the solenoid somewhere off to the side.
Or you can just remove the hoses between the vacuum chamber and the upper intake manifold (has a own-way valve on it).
Last edited by Jon316G; Aug 30, 2009 at 10:08 PM.
Thanks, ripped the hole thing out with confidence now. I also connected the solenoid wires to an empty terminal or prong (what ever you would call that) that sits right above where the solenoid was.
Last edited by tonedef; Aug 31, 2009 at 12:54 AM. Reason: spelling
Thought I'd chime in. This wasn't as easy a DIY as I thought it would be, but then again I'm fairly new to working on my car. Anyways, I believe I did everything right, but I didn't give maximum effort like some of you seem to have. Is the plugging of the hole by the throttle body for those who took out all the wiring/hoses and stuff? I simply disconnected as close to the Vfad thing, leaving me with a rubber hose that I plugged.
Anyways, I only took a short drive with the vfad removed so far, and it's alright. About a week ago I took out the baffles inside the air intake box and noticed that off the line it seemed I could get going quicker without bogging down. This seems to have reversed that. But on the upside, it does make the engine a bit louder. I took it on the freeway and floored it in sixth, and was surprised to hear a deeper, louder growl from the Renesis. It was still painfully slow, but atleast it sounded like I was going fast. Those with an exhaust, intake, or other powertrain mods probably wouldn't notice much of a difference, but for someone like me who is otherwise stock, I'd recommend it.
Anyways, I only took a short drive with the vfad removed so far, and it's alright. About a week ago I took out the baffles inside the air intake box and noticed that off the line it seemed I could get going quicker without bogging down. This seems to have reversed that. But on the upside, it does make the engine a bit louder. I took it on the freeway and floored it in sixth, and was surprised to hear a deeper, louder growl from the Renesis. It was still painfully slow, but atleast it sounded like I was going fast. Those with an exhaust, intake, or other powertrain mods probably wouldn't notice much of a difference, but for someone like me who is otherwise stock, I'd recommend it.
It's fine to leave the vacuum hosing and yes plugging it at the throttle body is only if you removed it all. Actually, leaving the lines makes it easier to return to stock. You don't have to plug the line at the former VFAD actuator locale, but I did to keep the line clean.
I wouldn't modify the stock airbox. Rather get a K&N flat filter element.
The major benefit to removing the VFAD is that it eliminates the hesitiation that was felt when the damper was transitioning to full airflow. With it removed it's only a little bit louder and only below 4500 rpm (low end noise abatement is why the VFAD was designed in the first place).
I wouldn't modify the stock airbox. Rather get a K&N flat filter element.
The major benefit to removing the VFAD is that it eliminates the hesitiation that was felt when the damper was transitioning to full airflow. With it removed it's only a little bit louder and only below 4500 rpm (low end noise abatement is why the VFAD was designed in the first place).
Thought I'd chime in. This wasn't as easy a DIY as I thought it would be, but then again I'm fairly new to working on my car. Anyways, I believe I did everything right, but I didn't give maximum effort like some of you seem to have. Is the plugging of the hole by the throttle body for those who took out all the wiring/hoses and stuff? I simply disconnected as close to the Vfad thing, leaving me with a rubber hose that I plugged.
Anyways, I only took a short drive with the vfad removed so far, and it's alright. About a week ago I took out the baffles inside the air intake box and noticed that off the line it seemed I could get going quicker without bogging down. This seems to have reversed that. But on the upside, it does make the engine a bit louder. I took it on the freeway and floored it in sixth, and was surprised to hear a deeper, louder growl from the Renesis. It was still painfully slow, but atleast it sounded like I was going fast. Those with an exhaust, intake, or other powertrain mods probably wouldn't notice much of a difference, but for someone like me who is otherwise stock, I'd recommend it.
Anyways, I only took a short drive with the vfad removed so far, and it's alright. About a week ago I took out the baffles inside the air intake box and noticed that off the line it seemed I could get going quicker without bogging down. This seems to have reversed that. But on the upside, it does make the engine a bit louder. I took it on the freeway and floored it in sixth, and was surprised to hear a deeper, louder growl from the Renesis. It was still painfully slow, but atleast it sounded like I was going fast. Those with an exhaust, intake, or other powertrain mods probably wouldn't notice much of a difference, but for someone like me who is otherwise stock, I'd recommend it.
i de-walled the airbox, dropped in a K&N highflow filter, and removed the VFAD this weekend. It was a breeze. I think actually the first time I worked on my car and nothing went wrong! Im sure i jinxed myself....


