WHealy

Here's the V1 info page on the windshield question.

As for me, I've had great sucess at getting plenty of advanced warning with my V1 with it's current position. Not scientific, but at least it's one testimonial.

fan

Kinda off topic...

Can someone confirm that the rear view mirror is using the same power lead as the map lights?
Furthermore, it seems you can slip wires under the headliner without removing it, yes?

I did not get the Touring package because the moonroof doesn't give me enough head room, but I really want the homelink mirror. I'm thinking about buying it seperately , and checking to see what it would take to install.

Thanks.

doccable

Hi -
I started a new thread here: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...821#post210821
I wanted to quickly thank Hard8 for his suggestion on the powering block, that thing is fantastic!
-Doccable

Speed-ER doc

The forum comes through once again!

Just got my V1 today, and used the perfect instructions from Attack to hard wire from the upper console. Thanks guy, those were some great instructions! Need to move this thread to the DIY area.

I would have liked to use the fuse tap that Hard8 suggested, but neither my local auto parts store nor Radio Shack had one, and I got tired of looking. That is probably a better way to go if you can find the part.

I mounted the remote display as 1stRX8 did, in front of the steering column here.

I liked Speed Racer's install below the volume ****, but didn't want to cut that piece (I never can do stuff like that and make it look good).

All of the wiring is hidden, and was an easy install with all of your help. All of the wires can be run under the weather stripping, A pillar, and headliner.

Y'all are great!

Speed Racer

Nice job! How about sharing a pic of your install.

Speed-ER doc

I knew that was coming...
(I had to charge my batteries)

Here is the remote display.
The part of the wire you see in this picture is the only visible portion. Everything else is behind the steering column, goes from there up the side weather stripping, up the A pillar, and across the top of the headliner, all underneath and not visible.

Speed-ER doc

And here is the main unit. It is SO much nicer to not have the annoying wire running down to the cigarette outlet.

Speed-ER doc

Another view. Note the adapter between the phone line and power line (which the remote unit also plugs into) is also tucked up inside the upper console along with all of the wires.

Again, the fuse tap method would be easier than taking out the upper console, and would look just as clean. I couldn't find any info on here about tapping other wires. Even so, not a difficult install.

Omicron

Good idea! Done. And nice job, too. :D

strong bad

not sure if this has been posted, but i saw this in cardomain a little while back.. thought it was pretty slick.

Does this location affect its detection capabilities?

Speed-ER doc

That's Speed Racer's handiwork. He put the remote display there, after disassembling it (I believe). I linked his thread 7 posts up. Here is another view of my placement, although his is definitely more beautiful.

Speed Racer

Yep, that's my handiwork! :D

The V1 is still mounted up at the top of the windshield where it gets its best performance. I opted for the remote display because I hate announcing the presence of a radar detector (or in this case locator) with all of its flashing lights. It also places the mute/function button within a finger's reach when your hand is on the shifter.

flatso

any power wires up there if you don't have the homelink feature?

RunnedAround

ya, what if you don't have the homelink feature, which wire should you use?

And is the V1 radar detector the best radar detector out there? (I'm guessing it is, but I would just like to make sure)

Hard 8

Scroll back up a few pages to find out how to tap power from the fuse box near your driver's door without cutting into any wires.

The V1 is ONE of the best. It is also the most expensive, at $400. Car & Driver consistently tests it out as the best, but a lot of people also like the Escort Passport 8500, which is smaller and simpler and cheaper ($300), but lacks the directional arrows.

I chose the V1, mainly because of the arrows, top test scores and metal case.

rxeightr

Escort has brought to market a unit even better than the Passport 8500, called the X-50. Read about it at www.radarbusters.com/products/escort/x-50.asp

I have pre-ordered mine.

HiTMaNN

its the same as an V1 and the v1 is still more sophisticated

rxeightr

What is the best method to attach the detector to the windshield where the black screen dots are near the rear-view mirror?

I was thinking of placing some high quality tape on the dots to give the suction cups something to stay stuck to.

Of course I can glue the suction cups directly to the dots -- what have y'all done?

Thanks in advance for your comments.

flatso

is the fuse connection always on or does it shut off with the car?

Hard 8

The one I used is switched with the other accessories.

Which reminds me: Is there any way to shut off the V1's damned start-up beeping without turning down the volume ****?

zojas

awesome. I found the same part at home depot today. wired it up in the overhead console, put it on the visor, and used the rubber peg to correct the angle.

on the rare times I drive west during sunset (I live on the east side of town fortunately) I can tilt the visor down somewhat, or just take the radar detector down and use the cruise control. I had it suction cupped to the windshield before reading this. I much prefer the sunvisor attachment.

thanks

robertdot

I got my V1 a few days ago. I had planned on doing the fuse adapter method that Hard8, et al, did. I've been to every automotive parts shop in the Trussville area that I know exists. I found a fuse adapter, but it is the larger size (thus does not fit). The only Pep Boys in Alabama is about 4 hours from where I am. Unless I can get it over the internet or find a local shop that I don't know about, I might be SOL for a while.

I resigned to try splicing into a wire. I was going to open the map light panel to see if the wires originally suggested exist. I don't have the powered mirror, so I'm not really sure if they are or not. Unfortunately, after removing the screws, the panel was being VERY difficult to get out. I don't want to break anything on the car (yet) since it's still relatively new / it is the first car that my name has been on the title.

I'd much prefer the fuse adapter method. If someone who has done it this way could tell me a brand / part number or any additional information so that I know what I am looking for, I would be utterly grateful.

Post the info here for future use, and PM me that you posted it.

robertdot

I finally found the fuse adapter. It is safe to say at 18$, Napa took my a$$ on this one. But, as I said, I looked all over Centerpoint / Trussville area, and I wanted to get this mod under my belt.

As previously stated, I don't have the powered rearview mirror. So, I had to use the fuse method. Whoever did the fuse install didn't really give much of a DIY, so I am going to try to fulfill that.

I took several pictures, but the camera I had on hand (Logitech Pocket Digital 130) couldn't deal with the extreme close-ups.

What I needed to complete the install:

1. Valentine One w/ hardwire kit.
2. Napa Buss Mini Add-A-Line (part no. 782-2226)
3. 13mm nut
4. flat washer
5. Wiring connector (looks like this but not this one). It needs to have at least a 13 mm hole.

Tools I needed:

1. Needle nose pliers.
2. 13 mm wrench
3. Scissors and electrical tape to wrap things up.
4. Wire crimpers

Steps:

0. Use the V1 wire tap to crimp the wire coming out of the fuse adapter. I'd start near the end, incase something messes up and you need to do it again. On the V1 hardwire kit, remove the horse-shoe wiring connector, and replace it with the circular one. This is where the wire crimpers come in handy.

1. Open the fuse box (driver's side on the kick panel), and pull the third fuse from the top (the A/C fuse). It is a 7.5 amp brown fuse. Plug it into the back of your fuse adapter in the bottom hole. I put an additional 7.5 amp fuse in the top hole, though I don't know that it is needed.

2. Plug the fuse adapter into the fuse box where the 7.5 amp brown fuse was.

3. Run the wire around the back of the fuse box under the kick panel that it hides under. Most of the unit will be under the dash area beside the trunk / hood release. Plug in the V1 hardwire kit where you previously crimped the fuse adapter.

4. In the top left on the inside of the firewall, there is a long threaded bolt exposed. It should be 13 mm. This is where we are going to ground the kit. Put the black ground wire onto the bolt (it should have the rounded wire connector now). Put the washer on behind it and the nut behind that. Tighten it down. At this point, you should be able to turn the car to full accessory and plug the V1 in to see if it works. If you can use the A/C, the V1 should be running. If that isn't true something went wrong.

5. I taped the black ground wire to the black hood release wire, since I was mounting the hardwire kit by the buttons to open the hood / trunk. Then I wrapped up the remaining wires into a neat package and put them behind the kick panel. Then used the Velcro provided to attach it to the plastic behind the hood release.

6. I put the V1 above the rear view mirror where I wanted it. Then ran the provided phone line through the roof padding over to the "pillar post" that has covers the airbag. I ran it between the airbag cover and the roof padding. Then I put it under the weather stripping as was outline in previous DIYs. You might want to leave a little slack at the top incase you want to move it some.

7. Once I got to the bottom, I ran it between the crack that separates the fuse box / kick panel and the panel above it.

8. Finally, I plugged in the phone cord, and tidied up the excess.

All in all this is a pretty easy install, esp. after having done the shock sensor install.

Omicron

A very nice addition to this thread, and the knowledge base in general around here Robertdot! Thanks for the contribution!

crumpmd

Finished the hardwire for my radar detector. I mounted it to the top edge of the headliner. It is stiff at the top edge and keeps it up out of the way. the power cord is just long enough to fit with no excess hanging out. Way cool.
Thanks