DIY: Racing Beat Sway Bar Install
#152
2006 WB AT
iTrader: (4)
edit..
Sorry, yea silly RB endlinks being fatter than others. I'd say just pass on the RB endlinks and get a different set or even just use the oem ones. There are other choices that don't need you to drill that work just as well.
Last edited by Bigbacon; 07-27-2010 at 09:53 AM.
#153
Registered
iTrader: (15)
you shouldn't have to drill anything unless your car is already damaged in some way..
edit..
Sorry, yea silly RB endlinks being fatter than others. I'd say just pass on the RB endlinks and get a different set or even just use the oem ones. There are other choices that don't need you to drill that work just as well.
edit..
Sorry, yea silly RB endlinks being fatter than others. I'd say just pass on the RB endlinks and get a different set or even just use the oem ones. There are other choices that don't need you to drill that work just as well.
#154
2006 WB AT
iTrader: (4)
Good deal, I was actually thinking that, but arent the ends of the rb front sways bigger to accomodate the rb endlinks? I thought thats what the OP indicated (granted this is an old thread and things may have changed). If so, wouldn't that cause some problems if i were to use with OE ends
#158
Registered
You can do the front sway with one man, but you need to take note of MazdaManiac's and Team's notes on that.
Remove all the front pan plastics.
You need to jack the car up high enough you can remove the plastics.
I needed to use PB Blaster on the right side to get it loose. I live in AZ and I feel sorry for anyone dealing with winter salt and trying to get these loose. Use anti-seize!
Use anti-seize on every fastener. Torque them to spec when tightening them.
You need to drop the steering links at the wheel to get the bar into position. When putting it back together the manual calls for 43 to 50 ft lbs.
I tried to install the front bar the Racing Beat way. My hat is off to anyone who can get that to work. Trying to get that to work removed a lot of paint off the sway bar. Also made me worry about how much damage I might be doing to the steering and pulleys on the engine.
I installed the rear and a Racing beat exhaust faster that I got the front in. The front would have gone in faster if I had listened to Team and MM right away.
Now is there a source for the plastic fasteners? I am running a few short now.
Remove all the front pan plastics.
You need to jack the car up high enough you can remove the plastics.
I needed to use PB Blaster on the right side to get it loose. I live in AZ and I feel sorry for anyone dealing with winter salt and trying to get these loose. Use anti-seize!
Use anti-seize on every fastener. Torque them to spec when tightening them.
You need to drop the steering links at the wheel to get the bar into position. When putting it back together the manual calls for 43 to 50 ft lbs.
I tried to install the front bar the Racing Beat way. My hat is off to anyone who can get that to work. Trying to get that to work removed a lot of paint off the sway bar. Also made me worry about how much damage I might be doing to the steering and pulleys on the engine.
I installed the rear and a Racing beat exhaust faster that I got the front in. The front would have gone in faster if I had listened to Team and MM right away.
Now is there a source for the plastic fasteners? I am running a few short now.
Last edited by jeffe19007; 03-20-2011 at 11:07 PM.
#161
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
it's fairly easy to install the front bar if you drop the lower radiator mounts off and install it from underneath and in without dropping the steering links, though I managed to get in prior to realizing I had been doing it the "hard" way by snaking it in through the side
you don't need the larger endlinks either, never had them and I've run much heavier bars
you don't need the larger endlinks either, never had them and I've run much heavier bars
Last edited by TeamRX8; 04-19-2011 at 06:02 PM.
#163
I want to give a huge thank you to this thread. I installed the Progress Tech Sway Bars on Sunday, and it was not a piece of cake for me but this thread helped me wonders.
I disconnected the sway bars from the endlinks, and on the last endlink (the driver side), the nut just would not bulge (I wasn't able to keep the hex key from moving with the nut). I put WD-40 and let it rest for a few hours and tried again but I just ended up rounding the nut. I decided to hammer things a little bit and I screwed up the HEX bit at the end of the bolt. So, I drilled and chiseled the nut away, hammered/screwdrivered the hex end of the bolt and now it fits the 5mm hex key again. I put anti-seize and re-torqued everything.
When I get to buying the Fat Cat Motorsports coilovers, I will definitely buy some adjustable endlinks and apply anti-seize everywhere lol.
Big thanks to all of you, this was a huge undertaking for me but I am still glad I did it and got to learn a lot more. That weekend, I also did transmission/diff flush, brake pads on all four corners, air filter (ahhh something stupidly easy ), brake fluid flush. I am all ready for the track now!
I disconnected the sway bars from the endlinks, and on the last endlink (the driver side), the nut just would not bulge (I wasn't able to keep the hex key from moving with the nut). I put WD-40 and let it rest for a few hours and tried again but I just ended up rounding the nut. I decided to hammer things a little bit and I screwed up the HEX bit at the end of the bolt. So, I drilled and chiseled the nut away, hammered/screwdrivered the hex end of the bolt and now it fits the 5mm hex key again. I put anti-seize and re-torqued everything.
When I get to buying the Fat Cat Motorsports coilovers, I will definitely buy some adjustable endlinks and apply anti-seize everywhere lol.
Big thanks to all of you, this was a huge undertaking for me but I am still glad I did it and got to learn a lot more. That weekend, I also did transmission/diff flush, brake pads on all four corners, air filter (ahhh something stupidly easy ), brake fluid flush. I am all ready for the track now!
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