robzz

iTrader: (3)

Hi, I had air pump noise (dirt devil style noise) from the air pump. I looked for a detailed how-to for changing them but only found one with text and no pics which was done from memory. For those who already opened it, it's quite a puzzle to put back together if you mix parts up like I did the 1st time (to check if it was bearings who were noisy).

I changed both bearing this afternoon and thought I'd do a detailed how-to. I'm no professional so do it at your own risk. It may not be the best way but it's what I did and it worked.

Also, english is my 2nd language so please be kind with my mistakes.


The original bearings I had in were NMB 608S. It's a very common bearing. The "S" means sealed. The shop that sold me the replacement gave me KML 6082RS. Actually 608 2RS. Pretty much the same thing. 5$ each in Canada.

User 556Magpul also PMed me that these bearings are the same dimensions for in-line roller skates or skateboards so you may have some luck there if unable to source them from a bearing shop.

What you need:

10mm open wrench,
Big flathead screwdriver (3/8" wide)
very small flathead screwdriver (1/8" wide)
Small pliers
Medium pliers
½in open wrench
A hammer (small one is good to be gentle)
14mm long socket
7/16in socket
small punch
2 new bearings.
Vise grips pliers
A vise
45 minutes if your relatively mechanically enclined.


Here I go.

Start by removing air pump from car. Should be pretty straight foward, 3 * 10mm bolts and a 2 wires connector.

Then remove the wire attach from below with pliers.

Remove the 3 * 10mm from top

On the bottom, remove the circle spring thingy. I used a small flat screwdriver to pry 2 side off

Edit: added additional info for sourcing bearings

robzz

iTrader: (3)

Next remove the bottom cover with filter

Unclip the five clips all around. **beware** they will jump off so keep a finger on them

Remove the bottom of the pump

Remove the bolt from motor. Use a ½in open wrench

Remove the spacer. Note the asymetrical shape (bottom narrower than top)

robzz

iTrader: (3)

Next, remove the lower fan blade

remove the tall spacer

Remove the intermediate cover

Remove the upper fan blade

Were at the electric motor!

robzz

iTrader: (3)

Next, use a T20 Torx screwdriver to remove the 2 torx screws

Using a quite big flat screwdriver, pry off the plate and electric motor. It may take some time. Work all around the plate, it'll eventually come off.

Now you have the motor out!

Remove the last spacer (can be done prior to removing the motor, not a big deal)

Now, you have to convince the tabs to go back. I used a vise grip to squeeze them and a flat screwdriver to hammer them (gently!) into place.

Once the tabs are squeezed back, you can pry by carefully using the side **on the metal**, not on the plastic!

robzz

iTrader: (3)

now, separate the top plate and keep it for later.

See the 2 large tabs. They is 4 on the body. You have to pry them up. I used a flat screwdriver. It'll allow the brushes and their support to come off.

After that, slide carefully the brush assembly out

You'll be left with just the rotor and shell.

Put it on a opened vise and hammer lightly the rotor out. Carefull! it'll drop right out so be prepared to catch it!

robzz

iTrader: (3)

And now you have the rotor out. There are notches all around the rotor, I wonder what it's for...

I used a 7/16 box to hammer the bottom bearing out. Carefull to hit straight.

Now it's removed.

I used a 14mm socket to get the one in place

New bearing:
Brand: KML
Model 6082RS. It's actually model 608, serie 2RS. Very common. 5$ each in Canada.

robzz

iTrader: (3)

When you'll put the new bearing in, it'll stick to the side.

I used my trusty flat screwdriver to get it down to the hole.

Then I used a 14mm long socket to hammer it down. Gently and straight!

And the socket will stick to the sides. Quite annoying but it's totally doable.

Check under if the bearing is well seated.

Now the rotor must go in. *** If you have to hammer it, put back the nut or you'll destroy the shaft end***. I did'nt have to use force but it may happen. You have been warned!

robzz

iTrader: (3)

Time to put the brush assembly back. I squeezed back the brushes with my finger.

There is actually an orientation. There is 2 metal tabs on the brush assembly, On the body of the motor, there should be 2 striped on the metal from when you pryed it off. It probably will fit both ways, but with this indicator, you don't have to guess. (4th picture on this post)


Carefull to put it the right way in or you'll have to remove, reverse, re-insert. Ask me how I know...

More brush squeezing, with a small screwdriver, to pass the various components.

robzz

iTrader: (3)

Push the brush assembly all the way back. I had to open up a little the tabs holding the top cover. Just a little bit. Your mileage may vary.

Hammer down the tabs. I used a punch. ** Beware of metal flakes that could end up in the motor...**

Now I removed the bearing from top plate. Be sure to support the plate the best you can, otherwise, the plate wil bend.

Again, a 7/16 socket to hammer it out.

And it's removed.

robzz

iTrader: (3)

Hammer in the new bearing. I used 14mm socket.

There it is. Check it's well seated from both sides.

I skipped the picture for reassembly cause "it's reverse of removal"

Just make sure the cover in the picture has it's notched aligned.

For the small circles thingy, I just used pliers to fold them back before reinstallation.


I tested the pump by connecting it directly to the car's battery. My wires were 18 ga and they became warm fast. May not be the wisest move, but it worked.

And I now enjoy a near silent air pump when the car is cold. For 10$.

Hope it helps!

RX_4+4

Now this is just a thought, how about a video of this step by step. I love the DIY and want to do mine as it has been out for years, I just never cared.

I cannot open pics on this website for some reason unless I open in a new window and that is a pain 50 times. If I do mine is there anyone that wants to hold a camera???