DIY: Moisture In Your Tail Lights? Quick Easy Fix!
01-29-2010, 12:34 PM
#77
Talking bad about other people you don't even know shows your character type 
Its crazy to see people still like beating a dead horse in this thread.
And its sad to see people who have no real contribution to this forum post here just to attack others.
That alone shows me a person's "character type".
This is why I stayed out of this thread... the immaturity is incredible.
Its crazy to see people still like beating a dead horse in this thread.
And its sad to see people who have no real contribution to this forum post here just to attack others.
That alone shows me a person's "character type".
This is why I stayed out of this thread... the immaturity is incredible.
The method one chooses to fix something, does imply their character type. That was all I was stating, nothing derogatory either way.
02-22-2010, 07:31 PM
#78
Ok, so I found some used taillights at the junk yard for a good price (100 bucks for both) to replace the ones I cracked.....
The driver side is in excellent condition, but the passenger side was full of nasty ice and crap. I think it was mold. Anyway, I got all the ice and mold crap out, but there is still a soap scum looking film in many spots of the lens and even on the chrome reflectors.
My question- what's the strongest cleaner/solvent I can put in the taillight without damaging the plastic of chrome reflector surface?
The driver side is in excellent condition, but the passenger side was full of nasty ice and crap. I think it was mold. Anyway, I got all the ice and mold crap out, but there is still a soap scum looking film in many spots of the lens and even on the chrome reflectors.
My question- what's the strongest cleaner/solvent I can put in the taillight without damaging the plastic of chrome reflector surface?
02-22-2010, 08:40 PM
#80
Well, I have replaced the $90 in OEM gaskets with $5 weather stripping from Home Depot and it seems to have solved the water seepage problem. The condensation problem is still around, though. I'm waiting to see if heavy rain will still seep in, wouldn't ya know that the day after I install the weather stripping it has ceased to rain in Seattle for three days straight. What the ****?
Does anyone still get condensation in the tail lights even after your weather stripping/drilling/silicone sealant+weather stripping/silicone sealant+new gaskets?
Does anyone still get condensation in the tail lights even after your weather stripping/drilling/silicone sealant+weather stripping/silicone sealant+new gaskets?
02-22-2010, 08:47 PM
#81
I cleaned off the gasket and sealed the whole thing with black silicone sealant. I topped it off by surrounding the edges with Frost King black foam tape. This thing can go through tsunami and come out dry. Sure beats buying a new gasket or drilling holes. Can you spray water directly at your taillights with holes in it and not have any moisture in it? I can.
02-22-2010, 09:32 PM
#82
Drilling holes in the lights gives moisture a way in, which is exactly what you are trying to stop.
Just plain stupid.
The housings are supposed to be sealed. They fog because Mazda didn't allow adequate clearance between the lights and the trunk lid, which bangs into the lamp and causes the seal to crack. It is compounded on the right side of the vehicle because of the key-hole seal.
Just reseal it and you are done.
Cyanoacrylate is particularly good for this because it wicks into the seal and then closes it.
Just plain stupid.
The housings are supposed to be sealed. They fog because Mazda didn't allow adequate clearance between the lights and the trunk lid, which bangs into the lamp and causes the seal to crack. It is compounded on the right side of the vehicle because of the key-hole seal.
Just reseal it and you are done.
Cyanoacrylate is particularly good for this because it wicks into the seal and then closes it.
02-22-2010, 09:35 PM
#83
Trained true Killers
02-22-2010, 09:38 PM
#84
You've seen water get in with holes drilled on the bottom of the housing?Not saying its impossible... guess I've been lucky the past few years.
Though I did laugh when I looked at the taillights on my Mazda3 and each one had a single hole drilled in the center of each lens.
Of course I laughed thinking about this thread, but I don't agree with a hole in the lens itself.
Oh well... I can tell more people want to beat a dead horse on this topic...
02-22-2010, 09:50 PM
#86
I have seen water get into the taillights through holes in the bottom cased by the reason that Mazda has a TSB on the subject (though they subsequently rescinded the condensation-specific TSB [09-007/08] with a new TSB, calling the phenomenon "normal", which I'm sure is a less expensive solution for Mazda).
EDIT: BTW - Put one of those "DO NOT EAT" silica packets in there for one sunny afternoon and it'll fix it, too.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 02-22-2010 at 09:57 PM.
02-24-2010, 04:28 PM
#87
Registered
I just replaced my tail light gaskets with the "new and improved" ones from Mazda. I took out the housings and spent a good hour drying them out, which was a pain in the ***. The new gaskets are indeed thicker and more LUXURIOUS. BUT! I drove to work this morning and there is already condensation inside the tail lights after just a short 10min drive. Let me be clear, though, this is condensation not rain water seeping in. I'm sure it'll rain later today so we'll see if that seeps in.
What gives?!
What gives?!
I've heard people recommending removing the bulbs and leaving the car running for a while with the air conditioning running to dry out the air.
02-24-2010, 09:24 PM
#88
02-24-2010, 10:35 PM
#91
I shook the headlight to get most of the standing water out, then tried a shop vac. One tube sucking through one hole and another tube blowing through another hole (no homo). I got tired of the noise after an hour and it hardly made a difference.
I ended up letting the taillights bake in the sun, which was more effective.
I ended up letting the taillights bake in the sun, which was more effective.
02-24-2010, 10:37 PM
#92
I shook the headlight to get most of the standing water out, then tried a shop vac. One tube sucking through one hole and another tube blowing through another hole (no homo). I got tired of the noise after an hour and it hardly made a difference.
I ended up letting the taillights bake in the sun, which was more effective.
I ended up letting the taillights bake in the sun, which was more effective.
i shook them out and baked on low in the oven for awhile but that didnt do it either.. maybe i have to wait for a sunny day to fix em.
02-25-2010, 12:21 PM
#95
Exactly Jeff. Or the revised thicker Mazda gaskets, which really do work well.
Cap'n, we have a dilithium chamber containment leak!"
Cap'n, we have a dilithium chamber containment leak!"
Drilling holes in the lights gives moisture a way in, which is exactly what you are trying to stop.
Just plain stupid.
The housings are supposed to be sealed. They fog because Mazda didn't allow adequate clearance between the lights and the trunk lid, which bangs into the lamp and causes the seal to crack. It is compounded on the right side of the vehicle because of the key-hole seal.
Just reseal it and you are done.
Cyanoacrylate is particularly good for this because it wicks into the seal and then closes it.
Just plain stupid.
The housings are supposed to be sealed. They fog because Mazda didn't allow adequate clearance between the lights and the trunk lid, which bangs into the lamp and causes the seal to crack. It is compounded on the right side of the vehicle because of the key-hole seal.
Just reseal it and you are done.
Cyanoacrylate is particularly good for this because it wicks into the seal and then closes it.
02-25-2010, 02:02 PM
#96
newbtacular newbness
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I'm pissed I spent $90 on the Mazda gaskets.
02-25-2010, 03:22 PM
#98
Sorry to hear that. I got mine under warranty and no further moisture instrusion and I even had to remove the lights/gaskets once to replace my bumper and they went back on aok and are still dry. And we've been as wet here as you out there lately. The gaskets are significantly thicker than the former ones, so hopefully they gave you the new rather than old. But common weatherstipping or silicone is still better than drilling holes!
So having used the new Mazda gaskets and still getting water in the housings, I went and bought weather stripping from Home Depot for $5. The rain no longer gets in. Works like a charm. And for the naysayers, I did install the new OEM gaskets correctly, and no they didn't work. Not sure what was wrong with them. I'm not saying they don't work for everyone, but I *am* saying that the weather stripping way is probably the way to go.
I'm pissed I spent $90 on the Mazda gaskets.
I'm pissed I spent $90 on the Mazda gaskets.
02-25-2010, 05:21 PM
#99
Hot Air in an inclosed space with moisture for 5 - 10 minutes will get rid of said moisture. I don't really know a way to mess that up.
It's the same idea as putting it in the Sun except you are providing the external heat source instead of the sun. Hell, put the silica packet in and use the blow dryer. Don't forget to fix the gasket sealing with some silicone. Lightly lift the gasket and find where the gaskets seal broke. Apply some silicone directly in those areas to reseal it. Then add some all around the perimeter to provide extra water protection.
It's the same idea as putting it in the Sun except you are providing the external heat source instead of the sun. Hell, put the silica packet in and use the blow dryer. Don't forget to fix the gasket sealing with some silicone. Lightly lift the gasket and find where the gaskets seal broke. Apply some silicone directly in those areas to reseal it. Then add some all around the perimeter to provide extra water protection.
thanks!
02-25-2010, 07:53 PM
#100
Here's what the taillight looks like- and the film is from mold (I assume).
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...-taillight.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...-taillight.jpg