DIY: Lowering Springs Install
Nothin but praise goes to synthk thanks to this write up I figured out why my front springs didn't settle as well as the back. But thanks to his adive on not tightening the upper control arms i was able to take half an inch off the ride height in less than 30 min. Thanks again synthk
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Get DIY, I will be doing this in the next couple weeks, as well as new rotors, and powder-coated calipers. It is really amazing how much lowering springs make a differance, we put them on my dad's BMW and it made a huge change as well as my friends 350z. I would recommend this mod to everyone on this board.
Troy J.
Troy J.
To reiterate, make SURE you get your car aligned soon after installing springs. When you change the suspension geometry that much, the toe changes quite a bit, and you can wear out tires VERY quickly. I installed some springs on a buddy's 2nd gen RX-7 once and he didn't bother getting it aligned. He wore a new set of Dunlop SP8000's down to nothing in like 3-4 months.
Not to mention when you take the suspension apart and reassemble it, you change the geometry. Most fasteners on suspension have some wiggle room and slop - you probably won't get it put back in exactly the same position as it used to be.
Dale
Not to mention when you take the suspension apart and reassemble it, you change the geometry. Most fasteners on suspension have some wiggle room and slop - you probably won't get it put back in exactly the same position as it used to be.
Dale
DIY: Spring install
To save space, loading time and band width I'll just put the link up to another version of the spring install. This install was done by the forum's own Sanguine_Dark (AKA: Vivid Test Monkey). Please read carefuly if you are planning to install springs on your own. Any questions regarding the install you can contact me directly or PM the Test Monkey and he'll be happy to help you out.
Espelir Spring Install
Espelir Spring Install
Last edited by VividRacing.com; Jun 1, 2004 at 07:03 PM.
Originally posted by synthtk
Like i said in the 2nd post if anyone with the proper torque specs from a factory service manual or something please chime in
Like i said in the 2nd post if anyone with the proper torque specs from a factory service manual or something please chime in
Sometimes gutentight is too tight. Always follow the torque specs.
Originally Posted by brillo
I've done the Tien springs, I would follow there advice, which If I remember correctly is 1'' up front and 3/4'' in the rear. Bens car after a week rides great with no issues.
Thanks again,
Ron
Just to add to the post, I installed the Tein Flex suspension on the 8 last night and shot a few photos of the rear install. I appologize for not taking photos of the front. I used my stock jack to lift up the suspension to get the sway bar links out and my larger jack to keep the car lifted. After completion the rear seems to sit higher than the front. I will be raising the front up a little to look even with the rear.
Last edited by ShowandDriftRX8; Oct 29, 2004 at 02:26 PM.
I know this is an old DIY, but pay attention to the front control arm part, and the text about not tightening them while the car is in the air. I didnt :P
Dammit! At least it's easy to fix :D
Dammit! At least it's easy to fix :D
I am going to install my tein s techs next week, and had a question. Upon marking the bolt and nut on the rear lower control arm. Do you make a mark just on the bolt and nut? Or do you have to make a mark on part of the lower arm where they would meet(what is the purpose of this step)? Also I suppose you don't have to do this on the front install, since it wasn't stated in the DIY? One more question, why if you completely tighten the upper arm in the front will the car not lower properly? I just wanted to clarify those things before I attempted this DIY
Last edited by xrider; Feb 11, 2005 at 08:12 AM.
You are extending the line from both the bolt & the nut onto the control arm in order to be able to return it to the exact position it was in before you removed it. a little dab of paint works too.
You do not have to do this on the front.
If you tighten the upper a-arm bolts (19mm) with the suspension hanging, the rubber bushings will be "preloaded" in this position. I got mine finger tight and then took the car for a quick ride around the neiborhood to make sure everything was settled. The bolts are easy to reach with your torque wrench if you turn the wheels full lock. Good luck with your install. It took me about 6-1/2 hours by myself with no air tools. That *#@% spring compresser! I also got a 4 wheel alignment about 2 weeks after the install.
The car looks and drives awesome with H-Techs. Enjoy!
You do not have to do this on the front.
If you tighten the upper a-arm bolts (19mm) with the suspension hanging, the rubber bushings will be "preloaded" in this position. I got mine finger tight and then took the car for a quick ride around the neiborhood to make sure everything was settled. The bolts are easy to reach with your torque wrench if you turn the wheels full lock. Good luck with your install. It took me about 6-1/2 hours by myself with no air tools. That *#@% spring compresser! I also got a 4 wheel alignment about 2 weeks after the install.
The car looks and drives awesome with H-Techs. Enjoy!
Originally Posted by Low Fly'n 8
I also got a 4 wheel alignment about 2 weeks after the install.
Thanks
Check out this thread. Only the toe settings were out of spec on mine.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ight=alignment
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ight=alignment
Did the spring mod...
Man that rear one were a pain in the ***.
Fronts where no problem..
Pictures are here for those who want to see....
http://www.verlinden-productions.com...X_8/index.html
Now I need new wheels.....
Man that rear one were a pain in the ***.
Fronts where no problem..
Pictures are here for those who want to see....
http://www.verlinden-productions.com...X_8/index.html
Now I need new wheels.....
Can some one please enlighten me.
Why the need to trim the bum stop? Me got the RB spring, don't the spring itself already lowered the car? or need to trim the bum stop to lower the car?
Thanks
Why the need to trim the bum stop? Me got the RB spring, don't the spring itself already lowered the car? or need to trim the bum stop to lower the car?
Thanks
The factory strut/bumpstop setup is designed for longer springs. When you install shorter springs, the inner distance from the base of the spring to the end of the bumpstop decrease as well. If you do not trim the bumpstop, the suspensions range of motion will decrease. We're only talking about an inch, but that could be enough to create some issues with wheel travel/articulation. Hope that answers your question. :D
Just remember to disconnect the abs sensors before you do it. Got my springs installed yesterday and they ruptured the speed sensor on drivers side. Dealer said it will cost around $600 to fix cause there is so much equipment involved.
Originally Posted by MadDashRX8
The factory strut/bumpstop setup is designed for longer springs. When you install shorter springs, the inner distance from the base of the spring to the end of the bumpstop decrease as well. If you do not trim the bumpstop, the suspensions range of motion will decrease. We're only talking about an inch, but that could be enough to create some issues with wheel travel/articulation. Hope that answers your question. :D
Originally Posted by mmats69
Just remember to disconnect the abs sensors before you do it. Got my springs installed yesterday and they ruptured the speed sensor on drivers side. Dealer said it will cost around $600 to fix cause there is so much equipment involved.
Thank you guys!


