ZOOM-I-DO

Lo-Tek Gauge Pod/ProSport Gauge DIY

*Disclamer: I am not responsible for any possible damage done by the installer. This is just a basic write up to help aid the installation*

Parts
Lo-Tek Gauge Pod = $64
ProSport Gauges = $187 w/senders
Prosport Adapters = $65
Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses (3) = $80
4 spools 16 gauge wire (different colors) your choice = $20
Add a Fuse = $8
22mm socket = $4
Assorted clamps, Connectors etc..

Dash Cover Removal and Modification

Step 1.
I used these IPOD install DIY pictures for the console removal and special radio bolt (hard to see/find) that needs to be removed to partially slide out the radio (pages 1-5).
http://www.whatsmyip.org/ipodrx8/1.php Very good pics.

Other Gauge install DIY
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ge+pod+install

Step 2.
Remove 2 screws holding down the vent assembly right above the radio (they were hidden behind the corners of the radio. This will expose the 2 screws holding down the Center Cover Assembly. Remove the 2 screws and pop out the Center Cover. (See picture)


Step 3.
With the Cover removed prepare the cover for modification by following the instructions for cutting the cover. Be sure to cut OUT the CENTER of the template paper, do not cut from around the edge. If you do it wrong then you have to tape it back together. Doh!!
Follow Lo-Tek instructions for placing the template. To cut the cover I used a Dermal tool and started a bit smaller than the edge and worked my way out, always dry fitting (setting the Pod in the hole until it fits just right).

Step 4.
I chose not to use the screws to hold down the Pod to the cover and used the included silicon with the clamps that were included and a couple of clamps I have (see picture).
Be sure to wipe away any silicon that gets pushed out. Goo be Gone works well after it is dry. I let dry overnight.


Install ProSport adapters and senders. I chose to use the ProSport water temp sensor adapter which requires getting to the upper radiator hose. I know I could have used the RB adapter (much easier adapter install) and not had to remove anything at all but I wanted to change the radiator hoses anyway.

VERY IMPORTANT

Something to consider when using the ProSport water temp adapter is the adapter size. If you are going to cut your upper radiator hose then the adapter needs to be bigger than the 34mm (red). The 34mm (red) is the one I used because it fits the TAPERED ENDS of the radiator hoses perfectly. That is why I cut the pipe part off of the bracket that connects the 2 upper radiator hoses together and replaced it with the ProSport water temp sensor adapter (see photo). If you use a 34mm adapter and cut the hose to fit it in you will have a struggle with leaks (get real pissed off) as described in other ProSport adapter install threads. ProSport makes a 38mm(silver) adapter but it might be a very tight fit. Use at your own risk.



Step 1.
Water Temp Adapter install.
Raise front of car and put on jack stands.
Make sure engine coolant is not HOT.
Take off radiator cap. Drain radiator (see coolant change DIY)
Remove the battery and battery tray. Remember the 2 bolts on the outside of the tray and one in the bottom..
Disconnect the radiator bottle hoses/sensor connection and remove bottle.
This will expose the upper radiator hoses. If you are not going to replace the radiator hoses don’t loosen the engine side or radiator side clamps.

Since I was replacing the radiator hoses and clamps. I cut the hoses behind the clamps and pulled the clamps off. Give the remaining hose a twist and pull off.

Step 2.
Cut off pipe portion of upper radiator hose bracket (I removed the bracket and cut on the bench). Reinstall bracket. See photo.

Prepare the water temp adapter on the bench by installing the water temp sensor (don’t forget the Teflon tape on the threads and don’t get any on the sensor end) and make up a ground strap before installation (see photo). I also cut off the signal side push connector and replaced with more permanent crimp type. Not shown in photo.

Install water temp adapter between the upper radiator hoses in place of the bracket pipe portion removed earlier (see photo). Connect the ground wires to the bracket mount bolt. I put a piece of hard rubber (radiator hose slice) underneath the adapter for no rattles against the frame. Not in photo.

Oil Temp/Pressure Adapter
Prepare the Oil Temp/Presure Adapter on the bench by installing temp and pressure sensor gauges (don’t forget the Teflon tape on the threads and don’t get any on the sensor ends). Use the plugs provided with Teflon tape to plug the remaining holes. See photo. Because the connections can be accessed easily I did not replace them with crimp type.

Install oil temp/pressure adapter in place of the oil filter using provided bolt (22mm) rubber side down. Do not over tighten. Hold adapter as you tighten so it does not move out of position. See photo.

Step 3.
Running Gauge Wires
Run the wires for the gauges starting in the driver foot well. 3 different colors (3 gauges). Tape the 3 ends together and pull thru hole in fire wall using fish wire ( I used a hole I drilled in the plastic clutch hole cover, I have an AT, no clutch) see photo. Note, take off metal plate covering the plastic on the inside under dash inside the cabin (two bolts) before you drill the hole.


Pull the group of (3) different colored wires into the engine compartment. Unwrap the wires and pull enough of the water temp gauge wire thru the firewall to reach the water temp adapter. I ran the water temp adapter wire along the main wire bundle past the shock tower brace then down to the frame cross brace and across to the adapter. See photos. Cover wire with Flexible Tubing and tie wrap as needed. See photos.


Install connector on wire, connect and tape (electrical tape) connection. Push wire inside tubing. Wire tie the flex tubing along the frame rail making sure to stay below the top of the rail (in groove).

Now move to the firewall again and pull enough of the oil adapter wires thru the firewall to reach the adapter going under the power brake canister. Also included in this bundle are 2 black ground wires. Ground wires will be connected to the bolt on the fender well. See photo. Cover wires with Flexible Tubing.


Now pull the wire bundle outside the fender well (to work on) and crimp the correct type connectors on the ends (you can solder them also, I did). Run bundle back under brake canister and connect to adapter sensors. Pull back any slack. I leave a bit (service loop) at the adapter end.

Inside Cabin Wiring (under dash)
The ProSport instructions require +12V battery (always on) and +12V switched (ignition on) connections. For +12V battery I used an “Add a Circuit” in place of the Door Lock fuse in the kick panel. See photo. I put a push type connector on the wire and ran the wire up and over the cover and grouped with the 3 Gauge wires lying in the foot well still on spools. See photo.

Now pull enough wire off the spools outside the driver’s door to reach the rear fender well and cut. Take electrical tape and wrap the wires all the way under the dash to fire wall (you can leave 2 or 3 inches between wraps). This makes for much easier threading of the wire through the dash and under pod. No photo.

Thread bundle over the steering column making sure to go over the portion of the column that does not spin. With a shop light showing the way to thread the bundle up and threw cover area.

For the +12V switched (ignition on) source I used the Cigar Lighter +12V connection down by the ashtray. Pull a wire from the cover area down through the cavity to the console area. No photo. You will see the pull path I am talking about when light is shined threw the area. Use a splice type connector to grab power from the Cigar Lighter +12V wire.

Bundle the wires together according to ProSport instructions and connect using connectors (pig tales) included with the gauges and butt connectors. The Ground for gauges was a nut in the cover area under the pod (by speaker) I checked for ground (differential) using a volt meter. Sorry No photo. Tie wrap where needed under dash and under pod.

Before Starting Car
Double-check the connections at the water adapter including the hose clamps. Replace the radiator bottle and connect the hoses (some hoses need to be connected before you mount the bottle) and water level sensor clip. Fill the radiator with coolant/distilled water. Set the battery on the frame rail and connect the battery (this is so you can check for leaks at the adapter). If the battery tray is installed you cannot see the adapter area. Just make sure the battery is not touching the pulleys’ etc..

Start the Car
With the Lo-Tek pod resting on the dash start the car.
Check for any leaks at the adapters (coolant and oil) using a flashlight. If no leaks are detected, check out the gauges. They should be flashing (water/oil temp) 68’ and oil pressure should read in the high 50 or 60. The digital gauges flash until 105’.When you are satisfied that all is as it should be, then button things up in reverse order starting with the battery tray.

This of course is not the only DIY on installing gauges. Please look up other threads and take info from them as well. I like the way the mod came out and learned much about my RX8. I hope that you find this DIY helpful.

See you in the canyons

Zoom - I - Do

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Very good job zoomidid

ZOOM-I-DO

Thank you Jon316G. Have done many mods and having a blast.. Hope this helps others doing a simalar mod.

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." -- Aristotle


Zoom - I - Do

ziig

what is your opinion on those prosport guages? any good? compared to glowshifts elite..which do the same for a little cheaper.....

klanham08

I've been thinking about getting gauges for awhile now and this lays everything out VERY easily for me. Thank you for making this!

gregs

iTrader: (7)

good job with the write up Doug. I saw these gauges in person and they look amazing

ZOOM-I-DO

I'm having no problems with them. The main reason I chose these was because of the colored led action around the perimeter. I can see the colors out of the corner of my eye vs. reading the number. The Glowshift look nice as well but the only ones with led perimeter are the combo boost/oil pressure. I'm NA. The Glowshift I see can dim when lights are on. Prosport does not.
EDIT ---- I just read that you are comparing the elite series (sweep gauges) to these? digital or to Prosport Premium-Peak/Warn sweep gauges?

Cool! Glad I could assist. Remember to look up other gauge install threads to gleen other tricks and watch out fore's. If you have any questions please ask (PM me).

Thanks Greg. I just hope some one like klanham08 can put the info to good use. I know I would have had a much tougher time if I did not have the RX8Club and its true enthusiasts to assist me. ROCK ON!!

ziig

I was comparing the Elite Peak/Warn...to prosport peak/warn

ziig

I know your gauges are LED..I was more interetsed in what you thought about in regards to its over all quality..say compared to Autometer?
where are these gauges made? it doesnt say on their web site..
the ones I might buy are the full sweep..BUT lookin at your LED ..i like them tooo now..

only wish they had a speedo gauge too then i would be complete..LOL
nice job though


Cheers

ZOOM-I-DO

They look like they compare well. The Elite has the color switch and low/high warning w/audible and/or visual light.

I'm no gauge expert and we all know that Defi, Autometer lead the way on performance/cost but the Glowshift and Prosport I think are great for the money

I think they are put together in Taiwan but both use Swiss made movements (stepper motors).

The digital (LED) Prosports do not have any kind of High/low peak function. If your looking for that feature. Was not important to me.

Thanks for the compliment. I have been getting looks and thumbs up from just about everybody.

Flashwing

I've had my pro-sport gauges for about 2 years and sadly I've had to replace 2 of my 3 gauges due to electrical problems. One might have been caused by me (although the gauge survived over a year with it's wiring configuration) while the other was simply a product defect IMO. However, because the non-fault failure was past the 1 year warranty I was pretty much SOL.

For the price these gauges are fine. In my case I didn't need anything super accurate so even a 3 to 5 degrees of error was fine. At first the gauges were off about that amount due to there being a large amount of resistance in the sender unit wiring. Another RX8 owner here locally had the same issue so it wasn't localized to my own car. After wiring in another ground wire the temps matched what I was getting with a laser thermometer.

I'm looking to purchase a fuel pressure gauge from pro-sport to keep my gauges uniform and because I won't be breaking the bank with the purchase.

Great writeup!

ZOOM-I-DO

For the price these gauges are fine. In my case I didn't need anything super accurate so even a 3 to 5 degrees of error was fine. At first the gauges were off about that amount due to there being a large amount of resistance in the sender unit wiring.

Do you think using solid vs stranded 16/18 gauge would be better for the resistance factor?

Another RX8 owner here locally had the same issue so it wasn't localized to my own car. After wiring in another ground wire the temps matched what I was getting with a laser thermometer.

I did try to keep the ground wires as local as possible to the senders and gauges. I hope the chassis ground is good enough? we'll see. I have a laser thermometer as well and will be taking some readings soon.

Great writeup![/quote]

Thanks alot. It took a while but worth it. Had to do some editing, forgot stuff, etc...

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

Great Write up....


I am also doing a fuel pressure gauge and tried searching for a DIY... Have any of you guys come accross a DIY with Fuel Pressure gauge install? I bought a revolution gauge, seems to be good quality but was pretty pricey.

LGukas

iTrader: (1)

i have a small problem.
My gauges ( prosport performance gauges) are always on.
I connected red(12v accessory) wires to fuse box (like op did)
black(ground) ones to black (ground) from the lighter.
orange (headlight switch) to the bulb from the ashtray.
and of course greens to the sensors.
the gauges are working correct, but they stay on after turning off the car.
Somebody know what i did wrong?
Thx for the help.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Did you read the instructions with the gauges? Where in the fuse box did you go? I believe it should be the room fuse but I would have to look because it has been so long.

LGukas

iTrader: (1)

hmm if i see correctly Zoom-I-Do connected the wire to the door lock fuse so did I...
but i will try the room fuse...
I bought the gauges used so i didn't get any instruction.

but thx for the help

ZOOM-I-DO

The digital gauge install that is explained here is different to the premium gauge install explained here

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...=lotek+install

Also here is some instruction from Prosport FAQ

Q: I lost my instructions how do I wire the performance Series gauge?
A: Black –Ground
Red - 12v ign. power-meaning power when the ignition is on.
White- 12v ign. power
Orange-Headlight switch.
Green - Sender
The above/below wiring will result in white during the day and color (amber or Green) at night.

Q: How Do I wire my Premium Series(Peak/Warning) Gauges?
A: Red -Constant 12v power
Black-Ground
White-12v ignition power
Orange-headlight switch
Green –Sender

Q: Can I use Premium Senders with Performance gauges?
A: No. They are not matched


Doug

LGukas

iTrader: (1)

thx for the help.
actually i figure it out by myself
I connected red and white wires to the yellow from the lighter and gauges are working without any issue!

colin3

I just bought this gauge pod and GlowShift Elite gauges. How did you get the gauges attached into the pod? They slide in but there is nothing to keep them in (at least on mine). I assume I could use the leftover silicon that came with the kit to glue the pod to the dash to also glue in the gauges from the back side. What did you do?

ZOOM-I-DO

Its just a pressure fit. They fit very snugly in the pod opening. There was no hardware to secure. I have had no issues with them turning or such for 5 years now.

Having them so you can pull out if gauge goes bad or wiring issue is a good way to go.
I would not glue them with the adhesive that came with the pod.

Good Luck