jenkins-crew

You could put them side-by side on top of the steering column like you would an alarm led, definately visible.

Sweet job man!

datasmith

I thought about mounting them on the steering column first. Then I found the post on how to pull the instrument cluster. Knowing now how to do that, I figure mounting the LEDs in matching bezels right on the instrument cluster will give it a more integrated look. Ironically, the beauty of the remote radar detector is that when I'm done with all this work, you won't be able to notice at first glance that anything is different... I want it to look completely built in.

datasmith

Well, getting this much done has put me well past the halfway point.

The Inteface unit is the connecting point for all of the RX75 components. This unit has the connection to the car's ignition power source, and also provides power to all the other components, except the powered speaker, which has its own power connections. The interface unit is small enough to easily fit in the space beneath and behind the ashtray. I simply used heavy-duty velcro to hold the interface unit in place, and bundled all of the excess cabling in the space behind the mounted unit.

See the first picture below.

I mounted the mute/jammer-override button on the dash to the left of the steering column.

See the second picture below.

All that's left now is to complete the installation of the custom alarm indicators in the instrument cluster. And... still waiting for the milled faceplate from the machine shop to install the display/control unit.

jenkins-crew

looking good, still keeping it clean, love it!

modena

Looks great man!
One thing you need to fix....
The mute/jammer-override button....
Take the thing apart and mount it in an empty switch....
Looks so out of "style" with your other setup.
(The wire alone showing would drive me nuts!
**** dude my-self....

datasmith

Yeah, I know.. you got me on the mute button. I am looking into that blank button position on the dash... It needs to be a momentary switch, though. Don't think I will find a factory switch that will do that. I've been up in there and the blank doesn't look easy to remove. Looks like there's a partial switch housing stuck into the back section. The blank doesn't budge from the front. I was going to at least mount the detector's switch right on the front of the blank, if I could have pulled it out so as to notch and route wiring through. Didn't want to cut the factory connector off the assembly to run the wire through a drilled hole.

You're right. I'll have to revisit the mute button... will take suggestions.

modena

Maybe in the steering wheel?
It looks like your handy with circuit boards, so maybe a toggle switch in the
Spot next to the light dimming switch....
Toggle that switch your mute button on the steering wheel becomes the mute on your radar setup.
Or just remove the radio mute function, and use that switch for your mute of the radar?

I never use that button, maybe you do?

truemagellen

I can get you a copy of the service manual page on removing the dummy buttons

modena

If you want a stealth mode?
Not easy but could work, a small micro switch under the stick shift,
(Don’t know if you have a stick)
Radar alarm, push down stick shift, mute....

jenkins-crew

maybe route through steering column and mount underneath where it is accessible but not visable.

datasmith

My favorite would be to put it in the blank button position.

I use my stereo mute alot... Bank teller window, drive through pharmacy, fast food drive through ( though I never eat in the car ), and especially when my wife thinks she has something imortant to tell me.

I tried it on the steering column. Just wasn't very easy for me to find and reach... and I tried several places on the column.

Thought about around the shifter or brake handle... but maintenance of those things seemed awkward with a little switch and cable dangling from them, and the switch just might get in the way of normal operation.

That spot on the dash at or near the switch blank seemed to fit my reach the best.

...so I'd really be interested in instructions on it's removal.

BTW - What's that switch position for, anyway?

datasmith

Thanks to input from truemagellen I was able to that pesky little switch blank out of the dash, although my hand will probably never be the same. It is indeed a hollow shell, so I will be able to drill into it and install my own momentary switch. I'm going to try to find a small, square flush mounting pushbutton switch that I can fit into the fake button shell.

It's got to be better than the one stuck on the dash.

Omicron

You could also get a switch from CanZoomer that is designed to replace the DSC disable switch with a 2-switch unit: 1 disables the DSC, the other turns on the rear fog light. Part F151-V7-255. But the rear fog switch is a momentary push button unit, designed to hook into a relay to turn the rear fog on or off. CanZoomer sells this switch for like $36 USD (it's a JDM-only part). Just a thought - and it would look totally factory.

Keep up the great work!

jenkins-crew

dude! that exactly what you need!

truemagellen

you want to come over and do the exact same setup on mine? free beer :D

datasmith

OK - This is as good as it's going to get. Just can't see spending $35 on a simple mute switch. I did get a high quality push-button, though... at $3.50 :D

It puts the pushbutton down in the switch cluster and cleans off the dash... and look- no wire.

Before-and-after pictures below:

jenkins-crew

very nice man, great job!!!!

datasmith

Pulled the Instrument Cluster. It was quite easy. I had to remove the dial assembly from the bezel assmebly to get to the spaces below the dials where I want to put the LEDs. I epoxied the LED bezels into drilled holes and ran the wires up over the top of the dial assmebly, hiding the wires in the bezel assembly frame that runs between the dials.

The first picture shows the wires coming down the back from up the front and across the top of the dial cluster and terminating into a molex connector that is secured to the back with an adhesive mount.

The second picture shows the LED's installed and instrumet cluster re-assembled.

jenkins-crew

Wow, your getting pretty close to completeing this.........has your other part come back from the mill yet?

datasmith

Not yet... the machine shop said 2 weeks..which won't be till next Monday!

In the mean time I'll convert the circuit to drive the two LED's from the breadboard on the bench into an installable module.

datasmith

OK, I've converted my bread boarded LED driver circuit to an installable module.

Now for you real geeks: The original LED was a single common anode bi-color LED. I wanted two LEDs to flash on my dash, and could only find common cathode LEDs. So, my circuit takes the common anode signaling from the radar detector and converts it to a common cathode signal with enough power to drive 2 LEDs. Also, since I was doing a conversion I was able to adjust the intensity of the green indicator down, and the red flashing indicator up. This is so the steady green power indicator would not be so obtrusive on my dash... but the red flashing indicator would.

Attached are before-and-after shots of the new LED driver module and a little animation of what it should look like when operational.

Also for the really Geeky, I've included a detailed schematic of the converter module.

Still waiting for the machine shop to return the radar control/display module and head-unit faceplate and I'm almost done!

jenkins-crew

that is really awesome man, so you have dual LEDs that change color?

datasmith

Yes. Each LED is actually 2 LEDs in a single housing. Depending on how you power it, it lights up either red or green.

canadian_8

Your my new hero, I now khow how my ECE (electrical engineering) 317 course is useful.

datasmith

Thanks canadian_8. I feels good to be someone's hero! :D