DIY: How to add AUX-IN to Tape Module
05-28-2004, 01:09 PM
#101
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Oops, I think I broke it.
Well, I tried doing the CD Hack, and I think i messed up my HU pretty bad. I followed Ectomort's instructions, put everything back together, and then put the HU back in my 3. I tested out the hack but I was only getting audio out of my right channel from my iPod, however, the rest of the stereo was working fine. So I removed the head unit again, took it apart, and tried re-soldering the ground and left channels. I put the HU back in my car, but the unit was dead - no power, nothing lightning up. So I took the HU out again, took it apart, and removed the soldering. Put it back together, and put it back in my car. Now the HU powers up when I turn on my car, the front panel lights work, and the stereo makes the beeping noises when I use try to use the steering wheel controls, but other than that, the HU is still not working. None of the modes (radio, cd) work and the display, though backlit, remains blank (no Hello! message). Any suggestions, or am I going to have to bite the bullet and buy a new HU?
P.S.
I tried this hack because I had a long road trip coming up and couldn't wait for Overload's AUX IN module, which I still plan on installing when it becomes available
P.S.
I tried this hack because I had a long road trip coming up and couldn't wait for Overload's AUX IN module, which I still plan on installing when it becomes available
06-18-2004, 09:01 AM
#102
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Overload,
Thanks for this great information.
Even though the Icelink should be available in 3-4 months, I'm still going to do this mod today. UPS should be delivering the cassette module as I write.
I can no longer stand the FM option. This will hold me over.
Thanks for this great information.
Even though the Icelink should be available in 3-4 months, I'm still going to do this mod today. UPS should be delivering the cassette module as I write.
I can no longer stand the FM option. This will hold me over.
06-18-2004, 09:45 AM
#104
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Interesting question.
I suspect you would have to put a dummy tape in the player, then you might be able to install the trim piece.
I'll check it out and let you know.
I suspect you would have to put a dummy tape in the player, then you might be able to install the trim piece.
I'll check it out and let you know.
06-18-2004, 12:40 PM
#105
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Thanks. I figured I would have to install the dummy tape before I "enclosed" the deck. I think it would look better that way and you can buy the cassette module for about $50 less if you don't buy the trim piece.
06-19-2004, 02:15 PM
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It certainly appears that will work after installing. There is a good deal of room between the unit and the trim piece. One thing that was different on my install.. When I tried to use an empty tape, it gave me the tape error detailed above, but it also ejected the tape. I just bought a blank cassette, and that worked wonderfully. Not a hard install at all but be careful when removing the console. Also, the two plugs for the heat and AC require you to use a small screwdriver to release. Other than that, it was a piece of cake. Like Overdrive said, it sounds really good. MUCH MUCH MUCH better than the best FM unit.
06-21-2004, 02:53 PM
#108
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Depending on which one you do... The tape deck hack just requires a tape deck. The in-dash cd changer is a replacement module for the CD player. The Nav, AFAIK, is in a different place as far as wiring is concerned. So, go buy the 160$ tape deck, mod it, install it, and you'll be good to go.
06-21-2004, 03:30 PM
#109
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Update,
I turned the system volume up while the IPOD was playing, and something happened to my left channel. When I put a regular cassette in, I got no sound at all. I'll have to remove everything to see what went wrong.
Any ideas on what could have happened/how to fix it?
I turned the system volume up while the IPOD was playing, and something happened to my left channel. When I put a regular cassette in, I got no sound at all. I'll have to remove everything to see what went wrong.
Any ideas on what could have happened/how to fix it?
06-21-2004, 05:26 PM
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Hello I'm an Italian boy. I read the post:
Does it work on my Mazda Rx-8 with Navigation System and Mazda Cd-changer (6Cds).
Thanks
Thomas
Here's a description of how I patched an auxiliary line-in to the head unit. I have the Bose head unit, but I'd be surprised if this approach doesn't work for the base unit, too.
Follow the standard instructions (posted elsewhere on this forum) to remove the audio assembly from the car and separate it from the control-trim panel.
This picture shows the audio assembly from below (the lower module is empty.)
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall1.jpg
Turn the unit over. Detach and remove the upper module (CD/MP3/CD6 player) from the assembly.
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall2.jpg
Remove CD module front plate (thing with the black felt dust guard) according to the instructions printed on the top of the CD module.
To expose the head unit circuit board:
remove 2 3mm short phillips screws from front of unit
remove 2 5mm screws from bottom of unit
remove 2 5mm screws from rear of unit (back plate will come off now)
Gently pry off the head unit cover plate to expose circuit board and remove the right (on the left in the photo) side plate to expose CD-head unit PC board.
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall3.jpg
On the left side (not visible in this picture) is a little board which connects signals from the CD module connector to the head unit's main board.
I'm sorry the next picture isn't clearer, but it shows a closeup of the head unit from the left side, the green board connects the CD module connector to the main head unit circuit board. (You can see a portion of the pink sticker in this photo that also appears in other images I've posted.)
I've added a diagram which shows the various lines (labeled as they were printed on the board.) I've marked the locations where I patched in in green. There are no electronic components on the board, so it's relatively safe to solder there without risk or heat-damage to components on the head unit itself.
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall4.jpg
I purchased a stereo minijack extension cord and snipped off one end, leaving the male plug end to connect to the line out from my iPod. Then, I threaded the cord through the hole in the frame near the pink tape. (It's important to use this location, so that the cord is not crimped when the audio assembly is re-installed in the car.)
Next, I prepared the end of the cord, stripped and tinned the wires, and used the continuity test function on my digital multimeter to identify the left and right channel and ground wires. (On a stereo mini-jack, the tip is left channel, middle is right, and the base is the ground.) Then I soldered the cord as shown above and used the continuity tester to verify a good connection between the male end of the mini-jack and the corresponding lines going into the main circuit board. It's a shame the picture of the final solder job didn't turn out.
I then reassembled everything. Here's a picture of the nearly complete assembly showing the patch cord.
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall5.jpg
And here is the iPod in the car. I use a Monster Ultra-Low Profile Charger for iPod™ with Dock Connection (http://www.monstercable.com/compute...er.asp?pin=2132) which gets power from the accessory outlet and attaches to the iPod's docking port. It provides line level output which the patch cord plugs into. There's no risk of blowing to the head unit with the signal, since the iPod's volume control doesn't affect the line output. The adaptor includes a voltage inverter, so there isn't any noise from ground looping. I get perfect sound.
The patch signal source merges with the CD player source, and the head unit won't accept input from the CD player unless it's playing a CD, I've burned an audio CD which contains nothing but silence (I call it 4'33" extended remix, a tribute to John Cage.) When that CD plays, the iPod effectively owns the audio channel. The CD player auto repeats, so every 80 min or so I have to tolerate a 2 second dropout while CD cycles. Since my iPod has over 7200 songs on it, I won't often need to pop in a normal audio CD, but as long as I turn of the iPod, there's no problem.
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall6.jpg
Last edited by ectomort on 02-02-2004 at 12:41 AM"
Follow the standard instructions (posted elsewhere on this forum) to remove the audio assembly from the car and separate it from the control-trim panel.
This picture shows the audio assembly from below (the lower module is empty.)
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall1.jpg
Turn the unit over. Detach and remove the upper module (CD/MP3/CD6 player) from the assembly.
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall2.jpg
Remove CD module front plate (thing with the black felt dust guard) according to the instructions printed on the top of the CD module.
To expose the head unit circuit board:
remove 2 3mm short phillips screws from front of unit
remove 2 5mm screws from bottom of unit
remove 2 5mm screws from rear of unit (back plate will come off now)
Gently pry off the head unit cover plate to expose circuit board and remove the right (on the left in the photo) side plate to expose CD-head unit PC board.
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall3.jpg
On the left side (not visible in this picture) is a little board which connects signals from the CD module connector to the head unit's main board.
I'm sorry the next picture isn't clearer, but it shows a closeup of the head unit from the left side, the green board connects the CD module connector to the main head unit circuit board. (You can see a portion of the pink sticker in this photo that also appears in other images I've posted.)
I've added a diagram which shows the various lines (labeled as they were printed on the board.) I've marked the locations where I patched in in green. There are no electronic components on the board, so it's relatively safe to solder there without risk or heat-damage to components on the head unit itself.
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall4.jpg
I purchased a stereo minijack extension cord and snipped off one end, leaving the male plug end to connect to the line out from my iPod. Then, I threaded the cord through the hole in the frame near the pink tape. (It's important to use this location, so that the cord is not crimped when the audio assembly is re-installed in the car.)
Next, I prepared the end of the cord, stripped and tinned the wires, and used the continuity test function on my digital multimeter to identify the left and right channel and ground wires. (On a stereo mini-jack, the tip is left channel, middle is right, and the base is the ground.) Then I soldered the cord as shown above and used the continuity tester to verify a good connection between the male end of the mini-jack and the corresponding lines going into the main circuit board. It's a shame the picture of the final solder job didn't turn out.
I then reassembled everything. Here's a picture of the nearly complete assembly showing the patch cord.
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall5.jpg
And here is the iPod in the car. I use a Monster Ultra-Low Profile Charger for iPod™ with Dock Connection (http://www.monstercable.com/compute...er.asp?pin=2132) which gets power from the accessory outlet and attaches to the iPod's docking port. It provides line level output which the patch cord plugs into. There's no risk of blowing to the head unit with the signal, since the iPod's volume control doesn't affect the line output. The adaptor includes a voltage inverter, so there isn't any noise from ground looping. I get perfect sound.
The patch signal source merges with the CD player source, and the head unit won't accept input from the CD player unless it's playing a CD, I've burned an audio CD which contains nothing but silence (I call it 4'33" extended remix, a tribute to John Cage.) When that CD plays, the iPod effectively owns the audio channel. The CD player auto repeats, so every 80 min or so I have to tolerate a 2 second dropout while CD cycles. Since my iPod has over 7200 songs on it, I won't often need to pop in a normal audio CD, but as long as I turn of the iPod, there's no problem.
http://homepage.mac.com/ectomort/ectoinstall6.jpg
Last edited by ectomort on 02-02-2004 at 12:41 AM"
Thanks
Thomas
03-09-2006, 07:04 PM
#112
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Hi guys ,
Does anyone have a good pic of the wire that goes into the factory radio from the led display. the wire that is pluged into the main board.
i have lost this wire and can not find a replacement. i have solder wire onto the main board but i have two slots that are opened,dont know which one it is .
thank you in advance
Does anyone have a good pic of the wire that goes into the factory radio from the led display. the wire that is pluged into the main board.
i have lost this wire and can not find a replacement. i have solder wire onto the main board but i have two slots that are opened,dont know which one it is .
thank you in advance
Last edited by zrmotoring; 03-09-2006 at 07:10 PM.
03-09-2006, 07:33 PM
#113
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Don't know if this will help:
http://homepage.mac.com/danschwartz/PhotoAlbum30.html
http://homepage.mac.com/danschwartz/PhotoAlbum30.html
03-31-2006, 11:24 PM
#114
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Originally Posted by spicedham
Don't know if this will help:
http://homepage.mac.com/danschwartz/PhotoAlbum30.html
http://homepage.mac.com/danschwartz/PhotoAlbum30.html
) but I have the same HU I do believe. I have looked through this thread and don't see anywhere to buy this particulare mod, which looks very simple to install.bdd
02-04-2007, 06:51 AM
#116
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overlord, your pics seem to fell off page one. any chance of getting those links updated? this still an outstanding how-to & relevant for those with cassette decks already installed. thanks, mk
03-10-2007, 08:53 PM
#117
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Hey does anyone know if the really hard to find mystery bolt has changed in 2007? I've taken the radio out of my 2004 many times but I really can't seem to find that bolt in my 2007. Grrrr
04-06-2008, 03:39 PM
#118
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::bump::
I'm assuming that the following is based entirely off the work that ectomort did: http://www.whatsmyip.org/ipodrx8/
Regardless, I used the above link as my DIY due to the immense library of pictures, and this hack was a dream. I spent $5.99 on the mini-to-RCA cable at BestBuy, and another $8 on a new soldering iron.
Personally, the hardest part of this project for me was getting the radio out. I COULD NOT get my hands anywhere behind the damn unit to disconnect the remaining cables (actually spent about 10 minutes just trying to disconnect the climate controls). So, I improvised and popped out the A/C vents directly above. It's simple... there are two screws, one on each side of the venting, that are visible above the radio. Then just pop out the vents, and it's ten times easier to access the cabling on the back of the radio.
Wonderful work though, ectomort, truly. I HATE FM transmitters... I live in Northern Virginia. Good luck finding an FM frequency you can broadcast for more than 5 miles before hitting interference. Now I have CD-quality sound and the convenience of no visible cabling.
9.5/10
I'm assuming that the following is based entirely off the work that ectomort did: http://www.whatsmyip.org/ipodrx8/
Regardless, I used the above link as my DIY due to the immense library of pictures, and this hack was a dream. I spent $5.99 on the mini-to-RCA cable at BestBuy, and another $8 on a new soldering iron.
Personally, the hardest part of this project for me was getting the radio out. I COULD NOT get my hands anywhere behind the damn unit to disconnect the remaining cables (actually spent about 10 minutes just trying to disconnect the climate controls). So, I improvised and popped out the A/C vents directly above. It's simple... there are two screws, one on each side of the venting, that are visible above the radio. Then just pop out the vents, and it's ten times easier to access the cabling on the back of the radio.
Wonderful work though, ectomort, truly. I HATE FM transmitters... I live in Northern Virginia. Good luck finding an FM frequency you can broadcast for more than 5 miles before hitting interference. Now I have CD-quality sound and the convenience of no visible cabling.
9.5/10
12-07-2012, 11:58 AM
#122
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03-15-2013, 06:00 PM
#124
Here's a description of how I patched an auxiliary line-in to the head unit. I have the Bose head unit, but I'd be surprised if this approach doesn't work for the base unit, too.
Follow the standard instructions (posted elsewhere on this forum) to remove the audio assembly from the car and separate it from the control-trim panel.
This picture shows the audio assembly from below (the lower module is empty.)
Turn the unit over. Detach and remove the upper module (CD/MP3/CD6 player) from the assembly.
Remove CD module front plate (thing with the black felt dust guard) according to the instructions printed on the top of the CD module.
To expose the head unit circuit board:
Gently pry off the head unit cover plate to expose circuit board and remove the right (on the left in the photo) side plate to expose CD-head unit PC board.
On the left side (not visible in this picture) is a little board which connects signals from the CD module connector to the head unit's main board.
I'm sorry the next picture isn't clearer, but it shows a closeup of the head unit from the left side, the green board connects the CD module connector to the main head unit circuit board. (You can see a portion of the pink sticker in this photo that also appears in other images I've posted.)
I've added a diagram which shows the various lines (labeled as they were printed on the board.) I've marked the locations where I patched in in green. There are no electronic components on the board, so it's relatively safe to solder there without risk or heat-damage to components on the head unit itself.
I purchased a stereo minijack extension cord and snipped off one end, leaving the male plug end to connect to the line out from my iPod. Then, I threaded the cord through the hole in the frame near the pink tape. (It's important to use this location, so that the cord is not crimped when the audio assembly is re-installed in the car.)
Next, I prepared the end of the cord, stripped and tinned the wires, and used the continuity test function on my digital multimeter to identify the left and right channel and ground wires. (On a stereo mini-jack, the tip is left channel, middle is right, and the base is the ground.) Then I soldered the cord as shown above and used the continuity tester to verify a good connection between the male end of the mini-jack and the corresponding lines going into the main circuit board. It's a shame the picture of the final solder job didn't turn out.
I then reassembled everything. Here's a picture of the nearly complete assembly showing the patch cord.
And here is the iPod in the car. I use a Monster Ultra-Low Profile Charger for iPod™ with Dock Connection (http://www.monstercable.com/computer...r.asp?pin=2132) which gets power from the accessory outlet and attaches to the iPod's docking port. It provides line level output which the patch cord plugs into. There's no risk of blowing to the head unit with the signal, since the iPod's volume control doesn't affect the line output. The adaptor includes a voltage inverter, so there isn't any noise from ground looping. I get perfect sound.
The patch signal source merges with the CD player source, and the head unit won't accept input from the CD player unless it's playing a CD, I've burned an audio CD which contains nothing but silence (I call it 4'33" extended remix, a tribute to John Cage.) When that CD plays, the iPod effectively owns the audio channel. The CD player auto repeats, so every 80 min or so I have to tolerate a 2 second dropout while CD cycles. Since my iPod has over 7200 songs on it, I won't often need to pop in a normal audio CD, but as long as I turn of the iPod, there's no problem.
Follow the standard instructions (posted elsewhere on this forum) to remove the audio assembly from the car and separate it from the control-trim panel.
This picture shows the audio assembly from below (the lower module is empty.)
Turn the unit over. Detach and remove the upper module (CD/MP3/CD6 player) from the assembly.
Remove CD module front plate (thing with the black felt dust guard) according to the instructions printed on the top of the CD module.
To expose the head unit circuit board:
- remove 2 3mm short phillips screws from front of unit
- remove 2 5mm screws from bottom of unit
- remove 2 5mm screws from rear of unit (back plate will come off now)
Gently pry off the head unit cover plate to expose circuit board and remove the right (on the left in the photo) side plate to expose CD-head unit PC board.
On the left side (not visible in this picture) is a little board which connects signals from the CD module connector to the head unit's main board.
I'm sorry the next picture isn't clearer, but it shows a closeup of the head unit from the left side, the green board connects the CD module connector to the main head unit circuit board. (You can see a portion of the pink sticker in this photo that also appears in other images I've posted.)
I've added a diagram which shows the various lines (labeled as they were printed on the board.) I've marked the locations where I patched in in green. There are no electronic components on the board, so it's relatively safe to solder there without risk or heat-damage to components on the head unit itself.
I purchased a stereo minijack extension cord and snipped off one end, leaving the male plug end to connect to the line out from my iPod. Then, I threaded the cord through the hole in the frame near the pink tape. (It's important to use this location, so that the cord is not crimped when the audio assembly is re-installed in the car.)
Next, I prepared the end of the cord, stripped and tinned the wires, and used the continuity test function on my digital multimeter to identify the left and right channel and ground wires. (On a stereo mini-jack, the tip is left channel, middle is right, and the base is the ground.) Then I soldered the cord as shown above and used the continuity tester to verify a good connection between the male end of the mini-jack and the corresponding lines going into the main circuit board. It's a shame the picture of the final solder job didn't turn out.
I then reassembled everything. Here's a picture of the nearly complete assembly showing the patch cord.
And here is the iPod in the car. I use a Monster Ultra-Low Profile Charger for iPod™ with Dock Connection (http://www.monstercable.com/computer...r.asp?pin=2132) which gets power from the accessory outlet and attaches to the iPod's docking port. It provides line level output which the patch cord plugs into. There's no risk of blowing to the head unit with the signal, since the iPod's volume control doesn't affect the line output. The adaptor includes a voltage inverter, so there isn't any noise from ground looping. I get perfect sound.
The patch signal source merges with the CD player source, and the head unit won't accept input from the CD player unless it's playing a CD, I've burned an audio CD which contains nothing but silence (I call it 4'33" extended remix, a tribute to John Cage.) When that CD plays, the iPod effectively owns the audio channel. The CD player auto repeats, so every 80 min or so I have to tolerate a 2 second dropout while CD cycles. Since my iPod has over 7200 songs on it, I won't often need to pop in a normal audio CD, but as long as I turn of the iPod, there's no problem.
04-25-2013, 09:49 PM
#125
Registered
