Oh, and one more question, any chance somebody can scan and upload the schematics and installation instructions? My car came with the tape deck installed and I want to experiment as little as possible.

 

I think that the install instructions have already been posted in another thread. Search for them, you should find it.

In terms of will it work with RCA plugs? Yup. Ever seen a RCA to 1/8th Stereo plug? Just straight into the wires. Join the left-ground and right-ground together from the RCA wires to connect to the base (ground) on the 1/8th connector.

It works in a very similar way.. You just have to make sure that you can control the volume. You want to keep the level just below clipping..

OverLOAD

 

I did this mod this weekend and had a slight issue I was hoping someone might have some answers on...
I did the mod just like overLOAD, but used a 1/8 mini-plug male to male shielded cable. I unhooked the ribbon cable on the back of the "amp Eq" PCB, and I used a standard cassette adapter for the dummy cassette (I didn't do anything to the cassette adapter. I did not remove the playhead mechanism, and left the wire attached)
I did the mod so that I could hook up the XM Roady. The problem is I notice a slight noise/"interference" when using the Roady. To describe it, it sounds almost like the high-pitched whine you get on AM stations. Along with this intermittent whine, there is a constant pulsating noise. Overall, its slight but definitly noticable when there is dead air.
I tried to do some troubleshooting and found out the following: This noise/interference is only with the Roady and only when it's connected to the mod. I hooked up an mp3 player, portable CD player, and a camcorder with a headphone jack and all of those sounded great with no noise. All were battery operated if that matters?
The Roady has three wires that connect to it: the headphone wire, antenna, and the 12V to 6V cigarette lighter adapter. I hooked the Roady up and used it with both headphones and a set of amplified speaker hooked up to it and the noise was not there!
So the noise is a direct relationship between the Roady and this mod somehow.
Is there something I can hook-up/add to the mod or the Roady unit to get rid of the noise?
Thanks

 

It's possible that adding some power stiffening caps to the roady will reduce the noise, and it's also more likely that grounding the roady to the chassis of the tape module will make an improvement...

 

So if you think it might be a grounding issue, do you think a Ground Loop Isolator would work.
I'm going to pick one up this afternoon and try it...
If not, how would YOU go about grounding the Roady to the chasis?
Also, would grounding the cigarette lighter to the same ground as the mazda headunit do any good?
Thanks

 

You should get what you need at a Radio Shack for about $20. Either an alternator noise blocker that installs in-line the power cable to your Roady (in case you have the alternator whine that matches the engine revs) or another thingy that installs in-line to the signal cable going from the Roady to the tape module. I don't remember what is it called, but this second one was that I needed when I installed mu HD-based MP3 player and connected it's signal cable to my head unit's AUX input. My noise was not the typical alternator whine, so it didn't seem to be grounding related.

I don't know much about car stereo troubleshooting, sorry for the quite sloppy wording

 

djmn,

connecting the the aux-plug ground to the ground on the head-unit will probably make an improvement. The shorter the distance between the units, the less potential for voltage differentials on the line..

Like Tamas suggested, an isolator/noise filter will probably clear this up even more. Try running it from a battery to test it out.. (if there is such an option).. or just try it with the car off, but in Aux on power mode.. If you don't get noise that way, a power filter is a definate must..

OverLOAD

 

OverLOAD,
I bought the Ground Loop Isolator from Radio Shack. It definitly got rid of the hum/buzz, but it also makes the audio sound like crap. It sounds really muffled/muddy. It has no midrange at all now. I don't know if this is a common side effect of GLI's or not.
Since the GLI worked, I assume it's safe to say I have a ground loop. Could I fix the problem all together and lose the GLI by hardwiring a new 12V cigarette/accesory adapter to the Power and Ground wires going directly into the headunit?
If that would work, does anyone know the "pinouts" or color-coding scheme for the headunit wire harness?

 

Sounds like it would work.. I think I've seen a pin-out for the head unit in the audio & electronics page, and I think that doing that would probably make an improvement..


How does it sound when you run the roady with the car just in the ACC mode? do you get static? A couple of stiffening capacitors would improve this situation..

OverLOAD

 

Well, I think I'm getting close to solving the buzz/hum issue. I've tried just about everything you guys suggested and here's what I know:
Everything sounds great when using a battery operated device OR if I hook the Roady up with AC power from the garage. Therefore it must be a power issue and not an issue with the way the 1/8 miniplug cable is modded into the cassette deck.
When I use the cigarette lighter in the car for power I get the buzz/noise.
I tried hooking up another lighter adapter using the same power as the one going to the lighter in the car and grounded the other wire to the chasis. Same problem.
I tried a ground loop isolator. "fixed" the buzz but make the audio sound like crap.
I tried hooking a 10amp power filter between the cigarette lighter in the car and the new cigarette adapter I installed. It did nothing.
I can only think of 2 other things to try: I still need to try hooking the new cigarette lighter to the same ignition power wire and ground cables that go into the headunit. Or, someone suggested buying a DC to AC convertor then run my AC adapter to the roady. Would this work?
Someone else suggested tapping directly off the battery, but I'd like to find a solution that would turn on and off with the ignition.
Thanks for all the advice so far. I'm sure my pain will make it easier for others who will be trying do the same.

 

djmn,

Sounds like you've exhausted all of the ideas. I don't know what else to suggest, but good luck,

OverLOAD

 

I finally got the buzz/noise fixed! It was on my final try, with my final idea, but it worked.
The only thing that worked for me was to us a DC to AC power inverter and then use a 6v AC to DC adapter. Strange, but it works.
The cassette mod really does sound great.
Thanks to everyone for the ideas.

 

good deal


Its always that last thing you check:D

 

That sounds great. I like the sound quality through that hack, we'll see how many other people adopt it,

OverLOAD

 

this is really cool, I'm going to do this to hook up my ipod once I get my car back from the dealer!

 

why is it at the dealer?

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...threadid=12559

engine replacement

 

duh
sorry I missed that

 

Anyone in the bay area been able to pull this hacking tape deck for aux line?? I sautered it, and installed the tape deck myself(which was a PAIN in the A$$!!), but I still can't get the line to work. Tape deck works fine, Thank God. Can anyone in the SF bay area help me?? I think the problem is the sautering. I don't think I sautered it properly. Any volunteers in the SF bay area?? :D

 

x-mobile,

I don't know specifically where your problem is, but here are a few suggestions:

1. If you connected to the correct points, you should be ok, unless you soldered a short onto another wire

2. Once you're done, you plug in the AUX-IN device, and put a 'fake-tape' in the tape module.

3. Set the radio to tape mode, and hit play.

I would be happy to provide you with any further help about the hack if you have any more details,

OverLOAD

 

Thanks Overload for your suggestions. I think I may have short circuited the wires while soldering it. My had was so shaky doing it. I wa so nervous. With fake tape, was I just suppose to pull out the brown recording tape in the inside. I tried that but my tape deck just kept trying to rewind it. I tried a blank one but still couldn't hear it. I think I did not solder it correctly or it came loose. I forgot to tie a knot. I just need help soldering the wires cleanly.

 

It is pretty fine pitch soldering work, especially if you havn't solded before.

Important tips are to use a very small tip soldering iron, rated for between 20 and 30 watts, or temperature controlled to about 700 Degrees F.

Also, don't use very much solder. It only takes a very small contact to make a good connection.

Coat the loose tips of the wires with a very thin layer of solder with the soldering iron first.

Use very short ends on the wires. If you have much more than 1mm of exposed wire outside of the insulation, your chances of shorting out a wire are much higher.

Put the wire exactly where you want it, and then put the iron over it to liquify the solder. remove the iron, continue to hold, and you're done.

Hope these tips helped.

OverLOAD

 

Great!! Thanks a lot overload!! i'll try that!! it'll be hard uninstalling and reinstalling my tape deck!! ughhh!! ....i'll do it next year, i'll let you know how it goes!! =)

 

Good luck,

OverLOAD

 

Long time, lurker, first time poster. I was inspired by the system that OverLOAD described, but too cheap to get the tape deck. So I got the belkin ipod car charger (with the pre-amp) and then wired directly to the CD player. It was very simple, (after the instructions for removing the head unit that is =) ) and now I just put a regular CD into the player and as long as my ipod is plugged in, the ipod owns the channel, when I unplug it, it is CD's as normal. I ran the line out under the center and back to the charger plug in the center "glove box" - it works great and sounds SO much better than the iTrip or other FM solutions. - Great job OverLOAD - and just to let everyone know, you can do it with just the stock equipment.

John Blakely