DIY: Hood Ventilation Mod
Well, my idea is to cut tiny vents in the "lip" of where the rotor triangle in the hood rises, and backing them with some aluminum mesh. I just need to verify how structrual that area is, and if nessesary, reinforce it. But that will add a lot of weight, so I go back to looking at the Seibon TS-II carbon fiber hood and painting it.
Ugh, I could have sworn I posted about the hood tilt mod about a week ago without any previous mention of it. You guys sure act fast haha, washers under the bolts work as well...
He's as bad as Can
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,309
Likes: 3
From: Manchester, NJ
With this thread as an inspiration I went and did this mod today with a slight variation. If you take out the weather strip carefully by squeezing the clips you can use the holes as mounting points for rubber bumpers. I got a bunch of these 3/8” thick bumpers from Home Depot along with some rubber washers to make them thicker and attached it with #10 machine screws. I will paint them black and it will almost look OEM. It was only in the mid 80’s today so no real way to test it. But If I want to It will be easy to take them out and replace the strip.
Hmmmmmm.........
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 6
From: Melbourne, Australia
This was my thoughts as well. I am going to buy some whick washers and bolts and see how this goes.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
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Real Freakin' Wisdom
This thread reminds me of an old saying...
"Arguing over the internet is like the Special Olympics...you may win, but in the end youre still just a retard."
I have no doubt in my mind that MM and Rotorrocks are correct, but untill we get a thermo-cam in action shot of the engine cowl and inside the engine bay Mac is gunna fight this one to the death. Just give up on him, hes not worth proving anything to obviously, and youre only debasing yourselves by reacting to his idiocy. You know youre right, and anyone with half sense knows youre right... who cares if some stubborn person wont bite the bullett and admitt theyre wrong?
"Those who mind dont matter, and those who matter dont mind."
"Arguing over the internet is like the Special Olympics...you may win, but in the end youre still just a retard."
I have no doubt in my mind that MM and Rotorrocks are correct, but untill we get a thermo-cam in action shot of the engine cowl and inside the engine bay Mac is gunna fight this one to the death. Just give up on him, hes not worth proving anything to obviously, and youre only debasing yourselves by reacting to his idiocy. You know youre right, and anyone with half sense knows youre right... who cares if some stubborn person wont bite the bullett and admitt theyre wrong?
"Those who mind dont matter, and those who matter dont mind."
Why is it, that you all continue to act like dweebs...Why????
Thread Starter
RotoRocks Powered
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 6
From: Delray Beach, FL
... and for the record I have the tein hood dampers which means my hood is slightly raised and weather striping near the fenders was removed for the last year or so
have a good day...
Mu ha.. ha...
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,361
Likes: 3
From: Cali
Your mods mean squit
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Inside your mind
Can you get rubber buffers like the ones at the front of the bonnet(screw type,but smaller version) they would look nice & neat when placed in the holes left when removing the rubber strip
Thread Starter
RotoRocks Powered
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 6
From: Delray Beach, FL
Washers will raze the corners as well... If it's a 1/4" might not be a big deal, but 3/4" will look kind of odd don't you think?
You don't need to get the rear opening up much at all.
I am using 1/2" thick hard foam blocks with adhesive.
The total opening at the cowl is probably 1/4".
As openings go, the cowl interface is pretty huge, so very little lift is needed.
I am using 1/2" thick hard foam blocks with adhesive.
The total opening at the cowl is probably 1/4".
As openings go, the cowl interface is pretty huge, so very little lift is needed.
One drawback could be that you supply hot air from engine bay into the air con inlet . Also as someone suggested - if you had an exhaust manifold leak it could be dangerous ....
⎝⏠⏝⏠⎠
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 8,625
Likes: 5
From: USA
Wow. I feel for you guys in AZ.
I've been watching my water temps (odb2 and racing beat gauge pod) and I usually top out at 200F. A few times I think I hit 210. Oddly enough, on the highway. In city, it drops down to 180-190. It's consistent enough that if I tried this out, I'd notice if it changed temps....
I don't think I'd go as far as putting in blocks to bend the hood open a half inch though.
I've been watching my water temps (odb2 and racing beat gauge pod) and I usually top out at 200F. A few times I think I hit 210. Oddly enough, on the highway. In city, it drops down to 180-190. It's consistent enough that if I tried this out, I'd notice if it changed temps....
I don't think I'd go as far as putting in blocks to bend the hood open a half inch though.
Power!!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,412
Likes: 3
From: Sunny See attle
I just did this mod ala Expo1 with the rubber door stoppers. very quick and easy and reversible if you don't like it. The hood bulges up a bit from the back so I may cut down the door stops a bit until I get it where I like it.
In my book this seems like an easy way for a little cooling insurance.
Thanks guys!
In my book this seems like an easy way for a little cooling insurance.
Thanks guys!
Thread Starter
RotoRocks Powered
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 6
From: Delray Beach, FL
Iactually pushed it up a good 1/2"
Wow. I feel for you guys in AZ.
I've been watching my water temps (odb2 and racing beat gauge pod) and I usually top out at 200F. A few times I think I hit 210. Oddly enough, on the highway. In city, it drops down to 180-190. It's consistent enough that if I tried this out, I'd notice if it changed temps....
I don't think I'd go as far as putting in blocks to bend the hood open a half inch though.
I've been watching my water temps (odb2 and racing beat gauge pod) and I usually top out at 200F. A few times I think I hit 210. Oddly enough, on the highway. In city, it drops down to 180-190. It's consistent enough that if I tried this out, I'd notice if it changed temps....
I don't think I'd go as far as putting in blocks to bend the hood open a half inch though.
Last edited by rotorocks; Aug 14, 2007 at 10:21 PM.
On my trip up and back to Salt Lake over the weekend, I was driving through 100+ temps with the A/C blasting, in boost at >mile altitudes and my coolant temps peaked out at 220.
Before the various proactive cooling modifications, this sort of behavior was simply not possible for me to attempt.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; Aug 14, 2007 at 10:31 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 792
Likes: 2
Expo do you have washers underneath your rubber bumpers? It kind of looks like that from the picture, but you can''t tell. Exactly how tall are those rubber bumpers that you are using?
I also think thumb screws would be best with this mod, to make it even easier to remove the rubber bumpers or put them back on.
I also think thumb screws would be best with this mod, to make it even easier to remove the rubber bumpers or put them back on.
