Replace your hanger. Also a little wd 40 or straight oil on it and they slide right out.

 

^+1.
While OK for now, you're putting a strain on the joint, & eventually you'll crack it & it could break, get folded under your car and cause some serious damage.
Imagine if it punctures your gas tank.
A cheap rubber hanger can possibly save you thousands, or even injury to yourself.
Do it ASAP.

 

And buy a set of jack stands with a 3 ton rating. The thought of cinder blocks crumbling with the car's weight on it, even though our car weights a little around a ton, would be tragic in the end. Just like that kid under, while fixing his M3, the car when it suddenly decides to sandwich him...

 

At a minium take your wheels off and lay them under the car also so when the blocks fail your wheels will stop the car from hitting you too hard.

 

Oh yes... That's what I did while I was installing my drop springs.

 

Ok don't judge me. I took it to a shop to cut the Cat the guy actually check my codes said its probably not the Cat. Made me buy some throttle body cleaner. Cleaned it for me. Reset my codes. The light has not been back on and the car runs significantly better. It still might be my cat but not an issue yet right? My only issue now is that it idles roughly. It shakes in reverse.

 

Is it actually idling rough as in your tach needle is fluctuating, or does it only feel like it.
Bad motor mounts can make it feel that way.

 

In drive at a stop or in reverse it seems to go under 1k rpm. Giving it gas helps but a slow reverse is scary.

 

So did the guy who checked your codes inspect your cat?
Technically, it's illegal for a shop to gut or remove a cat without replacing it, but they can drop it & look at it.
It probably wouldn't make a difference what gear it's in so it may not be the cat, but you should check it to be sure.

 

Nah he didn't... But the shop wouldn't care about that. He was going to do the Cat but ran the codes and we did cleaned the throttle body. He said he would do the cat but told me not to do it until it is an issue. Said he would cut the stuff out but recommend I go with a legit cat as long as I could.

 

Yeah, but when it becomes an issue... It'd be too late and certainly would have caused a serious (engine) damage.

 

Catch 22. So I can't have it checked out without the fear of a shop refusing to let me leave. Could the cat be the reason it idle/reverse is low?

 

Missed this last post, have you had a solution yet?
A reputable shop will drop it & inspect it for minimal or no charge with the hope of you buying a new cat from them.
When I was doing mechanic work for an independent shop, I would often do it for free if I wasn't busy, or ask them if they could leave it.
I would not sell them one if they didn't need it, which is not always the case with some unethical shops.
If they did need one & couldn't afford it at the time, many times they would appreciate not being charged & would give me the job when they could afford it.
If I was busy, & they wanted to get it checked ASAP, I would charge them labor to check it, & give them a written waiver on the future labor if they needed a cat & came back for me to replace it.
Many appreciated it & did come back.

 

Ehhh took it in and the guy st the shop was going to gut it for 100 bucks. But he ran the codes and instead showed me how to clean my front 02 sensor. Free of charge. It drove like new for a while but recently seems like the same issues.
I an moving to thr bay area so gutting it is not a real option. All I can do is start working and probably get an oem cat when I can afford it.

 

You haven't inspected the cat yet?
Are you still driving it?
If you are, & it's bad, you can ruin your
engine.
You need to get it taken off & inspect it If you plan on driving it to be sure.
If you are unable yo do it yourself, call around and see if you can find a shop that will inspect it for you.
You may also consider posting in your regional forum to see if any
members in your area may be willing to assist you.
Might just cost you a pizza & a sixpack.
*edit* I would think you could drive it with it gutted until you need to get it inspected. I.would rather risk a ticket than have to replace my engine.

 

yeah the shop guy said I should be fine... and I believed him. Kinda a big mistake. I did less than 200 miles so hopefully its not too bad.

 

Hi I want to put straight stainless steal pipe in to my RX8 , because i smash my cat and now it sounds like terminator and robocop partying there. But the mechanik say that i need to do something whit my O2 sensor , because if I do nothing to it cars computer will think that there is something wrong whit the car and go in safty mod.What i have to do about it?

 

As long as you did not mess with the front 02 sensor you will be fine, but wont pass a safety inspection depending on where you are.

To quite it down you need a pipe with a resonator in it.

 

In Bulgaria saefty inspection is once a year and they just check the brakes and lights on the car . So I dont need to go to program my OBD compute or DECAT O2 FOOLER ?

 

I'm not sure what you mean by program your OBD computer.
There are tools like the Cobb Access port that can mask the CEL from a cat delete.
I have an Android phone with the Torque app that I use to clear it.

Don't bother with the 'fooler' devices that extend the sensor out and claim to eliminate the CEL, they usually don't work.

 

Please clarify: what will make the sensor useless and remove the light?

 

He is referring to an O2 fouler that in piston engine cars with simple ECUs can fool the ECU into thinking that all is well.

They don't work on RX-8s. Proven time and time again. You can use one to block P0420 (Catalytic Converter Efficiency Below Threshhold) with one, but instead the ECU will just pick up on something is wrong, and you will get one or more of 5-6 other codes instead, like Rear O2 Slow Response is common.

If you want to block the CEL, you have to get either MazdaEdit (2004-2011 RX-8s) or an AccessPORT (2004-2008 RX-8s) and change the ECU settings to not even test the cat or rear O2 sensor.

 

Hi chief

Gutted my CAT. cleared out all the debris but power loss persists. No CEL, no fault codes, no other problem except this persistent power loss. Once I stop and redline it, its sounds like a man coughing out a phlegm then runs well until i start climbing a steep road then the problem starts again.

What do you think is the real problem?

 

Was the back half of the cat intact?
If not check the exhaust pipe for pieces lodged in it or the muffler.
If it was intact, find a power loss thread for troubleshooting.

 

I am currently in the process as we speak.
I have the cat off (had to cut the rear spring bolt off)
and i am trying to gut it now.
Ive got the center pice of the material out, all that remains is the rest of material around the center. I am sitting here banging it as hard as i can with nice hammer and a steel chisel, its not really breaking anymore, from prior knowledge, what can help me out here,im trying to pull it out, and im afraid to bang it in and get it stuck further in the pipe.