DIY: Easy MOD for colder AC
10-09-2011, 08:40 AM
#252
For those in Florida, and the hot north. I used foam pipe insulation, and did a few other things that really helped. They are in the $100 thread below, but were only a small part of it. Biggest winner was fixing air flow around radiator
I am currently running without the re-program, plenty of cold air, even stopped in traffic. Thread has some test measurements. Biggest one was went from not working stopped in traffic at 95 degrees to nice and cold in traffic at 95 degrees.
Sun shade is a good idea too, also make sure seat heater switch not hit by kids...
I am currently running without the re-program, plenty of cold air, even stopped in traffic. Thread has some test measurements. Biggest one was went from not working stopped in traffic at 95 degrees to nice and cold in traffic at 95 degrees.
Sun shade is a good idea too, also make sure seat heater switch not hit by kids...
12-26-2011, 08:09 AM
#256
Registered
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Pleasanton, CA
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very funny. I expected better from you being a mod and all. And no I'm not a newb whatsoever! I did this mod a few years ago, and it has been unbearably cold lately this winter, so I was curious for people who did this mod, if they decided to undo it for the winter or not?
12-26-2011, 08:29 AM
#257
The two should not be connected in any way.
I would check the coolant level, especially if you disconnected the sensor like I did because of the stupid light. Remember, there is a lot of cold water and cold oil that will get first dibs on the heat. And, how long is "forever"?
I would check the coolant level, especially if you disconnected the sensor like I did because of the stupid light. Remember, there is a lot of cold water and cold oil that will get first dibs on the heat. And, how long is "forever"?
12-26-2011, 09:08 AM
#258
Registered
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Pleasanton, CA
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The two should not be connected in any way.
I would check the coolant level, especially if you disconnected the sensor like I did because of the stupid light. Remember, there is a lot of cold water and cold oil that will get first dibs on the heat. And, how long is "forever"?
I would check the coolant level, especially if you disconnected the sensor like I did because of the stupid light. Remember, there is a lot of cold water and cold oil that will get first dibs on the heat. And, how long is "forever"?
03-27-2012, 09:20 AM
#259
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IMO the Fan Motor issue is also another "Heat" one, the durability of the little motors sandwiched between all that Summer Heat...more than likely the S2 motors will go the same way over time.
What I have to caution you in using S2 motors in an S1 are the connections, the S2's are a 4 pin plug..the S1 could be the same?, more than likely they are.
Would be interesting to compare the Sales Stats for these motors in Cooler climates like Germany and UK.
The S2 Factory WS manual says Current Draw between 7.7 and 10.7 AMPS with a fully charged 12V battery, both fans on.( I guess max speed)....it does not say..
Just says replace fans if not running smoothly or correctly.
What I have to caution you in using S2 motors in an S1 are the connections, the S2's are a 4 pin plug..the S1 could be the same?, more than likely they are.
Would be interesting to compare the Sales Stats for these motors in Cooler climates like Germany and UK.
The S2 Factory WS manual says Current Draw between 7.7 and 10.7 AMPS with a fully charged 12V battery, both fans on.( I guess max speed)....it does not say..
Just says replace fans if not running smoothly or correctly.
A fan blew on my Series 1, so I decided to go on a limb and try the mod. Didn't see this anywhere else, but FYI, the connectors are different. S2 are 4pin connectors, S1 are 2pin connectors.
Anyone doing this will need to splice/solder, and bewarned one of the S1 fans have an 'in-built' connector of sorts that can't be removed very easily if you want to splice and solder.
Also note that the shrouds mount points to the radiator are different between the S1 and S2. You'll need to do a little mod to get the S2 shroud to mount on the S1's radiator.
06-22-2012, 12:48 AM
#262
Brap-Brap Addict
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lindale TX
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
can the A/C temp sensor at the evaporator be fooled (by insulation?)to trick the a/c control system into thinking that it has not yet reached the preset cut-off temp, thereby causing the compressor to run longer and with the benfit of a lowered temperature result?
............ it's not the same thing. try ebay.
05-06-2016, 07:36 PM
#270
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
I wouldn't bother even wrapping it.
That pipe is not a factor in how cold your a/c is going to be. You will notice that all the peeps who replied said it "felt colder" or "seems better", there are zero measured differences -
Does it get to 44*F before cutting out?
Does the compressor cycle every 23 seconds instead of every 52?
Is the outlet air temp colder at idle?
...and by how much?
Pure placebo effect/conventional wisdom - "It must be colder, because I insulated the 'frosty' pipe"
That pipe goes from the evaporator to the compressor, if it is 'frosty' it means you didn't put enough cabin air over the coils, and you are wasting cooling. From there it goes thru the comp, then the drier and the condensor. Now it is hopefully back at ambient temp, ready to re-expand and do its refrigeration thing again.
The two feet of insulation on the evap outlet is irrelevant.
Sorry, but save your cash.
S
That pipe is not a factor in how cold your a/c is going to be. You will notice that all the peeps who replied said it "felt colder" or "seems better", there are zero measured differences -
Does it get to 44*F before cutting out?
Does the compressor cycle every 23 seconds instead of every 52?
Is the outlet air temp colder at idle?
...and by how much?
Pure placebo effect/conventional wisdom - "It must be colder, because I insulated the 'frosty' pipe"
That pipe goes from the evaporator to the compressor, if it is 'frosty' it means you didn't put enough cabin air over the coils, and you are wasting cooling. From there it goes thru the comp, then the drier and the condensor. Now it is hopefully back at ambient temp, ready to re-expand and do its refrigeration thing again.
The two feet of insulation on the evap outlet is irrelevant.
Sorry, but save your cash.
S
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jasonrxeight
RX-8's For Sale/Wanted
2
09-30-2015 01:53 PM
Evan Gray
Series I Trouble Shooting
0
09-26-2015 12:30 PM
