Old thread comes to life !

**** I got a 54MM impact socket on the internet, it saids 3/4 inch drive but it came @ 1in .... so it wont fit my impact

Can the Craftsman Socket you mention really work ? its 12 pt tho. I thought the big Flywheel nut is 6 pt ?

 

I think you can find the 54mm socket at lowe's also.

 

The problem is the closest Lowes to me is like almost an hour drive >_<

If the Sears/Craftsman works I can go get it, its just like 5 minutes drive from my home. but 12 pt .... Is our Flywheel nut 6 or 12 ? or will the 12 fit ?

 

12 should fit.

Whats your impact gun rated at?

I remember mine was on so tight I had to give my gun like 110 psi.

 

Reverse force is rated at 400 lbs ... dunno if its too low

Forward is about 350 lbs I think

 

Shut up !!!!!!!!!!!!!

I hate you being so skillful, I hate myself being a noob !!!!!!

Well, maybe after my 1st time, I will get a better idea on how to change it so I dont need to use as much air tools.

but come on Charles, air tools makes removing it 10 times faster. tell me thats not true :P

 

I just did a complete engine swap with no air tools...I have a compressor and impact tools...but I find them clumsy and mostly a PIA.

They come in handy for a few things...but usually I just use ratchets and wrenches

 

just finished my install, need to bleed the SC a little more and adjust the pedal, but so far so good, prolite flywheel, ACT HDMM clutch kit, SS braided clutch line. took about 8hrs for the total install, on the floor with jackstands. The trans is only like 100lbs, I was able to muscle it up and down with the assistance of a floor jack for the alignment, but I have done this on a lot of different cars, nothing new to me. the 12pt craftsmen 2 1/8 socket works perfectly.

 

how did you get the top two bolts from the trans off?

 

The only thing i would want an air tool for is the flywheel nut because i would be doing it on the floor and not much leverage with a breaker bar thats 36" long when you are 10" off the ground....

 

lol, had about 4 feet of 1/2inch drive extentions, so I could have clearance past the trans to turn the 1/2" ratchet....I have alot of tools, lol. With that many extensions there was enough play that it almost acted like a swivel but torque transfer was a lot more solid, so taking the bolts off was a breeze.

 

use a impact wrench to break the flywheel nut off, and thread the new one on (on my impact wrench, it has 4 settings, 1 is the hardest and 4 is so light I can hold the socket with my hand and it lightly hammers), other than that, hand tools are the way to go, unless you like breaking bolts

 

For those who don't have a puller or want to pop that flywheel off in a matter of seconds after you get the nut off the flywheel. If your like me your replacing that flywheel I could care less about it. Go to the outside edge of the flywheel..what a small sledge hammer or just the head. Start off with a small tap and just tap a little harder if you hit 5 times and no pop turn the motor and do it on the otherside. I made a puller and the impact didn't pull it...then I pulled the breaker bar and torqued as hard as I could...and never got anywhere. After thinking about it was afraid to hit it to hard but realized it don't make much on the outside edge and the flywheel falls off.

 

Question.

About how strong should a guy be to be able to get the flywheel nut off with the Racing Beat tool? Or rather, how much strength is needed? It is 540ft/lb right, so if the car is up on jackstands, hanging/pulling on the breaker bar...would that be enough? Would a mallet banging on the bar be better? I really don't have access to air tools, nor do I want to spend money when I can do the job with the specialty tool.

Also, about how safe is it to attempt the nut removal when the car is up on jacks stands? I'm just worried that the constant pulling yanking banging etc on the breaker bar could make the car slip and kill me.

Thanks

 

^I got the nut off with the Racing Beat tool.
Be prepared to have the car raised HIGH on jack stands (over 24" if possible) because the bar is really long.
We had to bend the bar a little bit to make it a little "shorter" and more room to turn it.
Because of this, I've had the end of the Racing Beat tool (the 54mm hex) cut and welded with a 1/2" attachment for a large breaker bar that can more easily fit under a car on jack stands.
And don't worry about doing this work on jack stands as long as they are good, large, sturdy stands.

 

For me I made my own tool that had a handle that was about the same length as the breaker bar. I just stuck a foot on the one bar and pulled on the other. It wasn't that hard.... I just start applying strength little by little... I'd say it took about 75% strength since I was slowly applying the pressure.

 

it's always best with a PIT

 

I've searched, and have read many threads on the subject. So this post is just out impulsive wannabe really really sure security matters.

Using 4ton jackstands, four of them, where is the THE MOST secure and stable locations for safety's sake. I will be using Kragen Powerbuilt stands.

 

As far as that...that's up to you it's not that bad...just find a spot you feel comfortable with....As far as your flywheel....

Loosen that nut and then just hit the outside edge of the flywheel with a hammer any size...and you don't even have to hit it hard.

The shaft is tappered...which means it gets bigger as it goes on...so a hit on the outside and it comes right off.. It will save you so much time and won't damage or hurt anything.

 

Damn getting to the point where my car has been up on stands for four days not being able to finish the job because of work/rain. First heavy rain this very night, power was knocked out for a while.

Stuck with he transmission, only attempted once and couldn't get it. I'm having trouble getting the input shaft back into the spline of the clutch. Then I had to undo the pressure plate to check out the disc.

Noticed two things, that I could see tiny marks on the disc teeth where I had just missed the mark with the input shaft. Also, my pilot bearing seal is ripped up on one side, and I think this is what caused the bad alignment disc wise.

Just got a new seal today and will change those out, hope to fix this error.

 

Make sure the engine is supported too.
Without the transmission attached, the engine will lean back and make it difficult to align.
I use a jack and wooden block to raise the back end of the engine up so its not leaning.

Also if the spline isn't going in, verify the clutch disc is properly aligned.
The past couple clutches I did I noticed the alignment tool didn't keep the disc centered and the tool tilted downward.
I had to lift the end of the alignment tool slightly while I tightened the pressure plate bolts.

 

Ya, noticed that my alignment tool bent downwards also. Will try the jacing the engine tip, when it stops raining.

 

dumb question, and i have searched but didnt find a clear answer...

im shopping for a new clutch kit and while the clutch is being replaced might as well as relpace the flywheel with a lighter one. My only question is about the counterweight, because all the aftermarket flywheels say that i need a counter weight. can i reuse the OEM one or do i have to buy a new one...? never had to replace a clutch til now so im kinda uneducated in this area.

 

Good question, batangisip89 (even if a very old post)

I am a noob & my Exedy OE Clutch kit (MZK1002) just arrived. I didn't order a flywheel but am thinking that if I'm about to invest 8-16 hours into replacing the clutch... maybe I should do the lighter flywheel too.

I've spent hours reading the forums for DIY & tips for doing the clutch but it seems the most basic of questions isn't answered directly (that I saw)

Can someone please tell me when the flywheel counterweight needs to be replaced. I assume if I just do the clutch & leave the OE flywheel... I don't have to replace the weight... but do need to get the flywheel milled. If I replace the flywheel with a lighter one... can I still use the OE counterweight?

I'm confused because when shopping, some flywheels say you must use THEIR compatible counterweight (ex. Exedy Racing - Lightweight Flywheel - THMotorsports - Discount Performance Car & Truck Parts Sale | Lowest Price | Free Shipping) whereas many flywheels don't mention the counterweight at all.

 

The OEM flywheel has the counterweight integrated on the flywheel, if you use an aftermarket flywheel,you need a counterweight. Or use and automatic counterweight.