GaMEChld

I will be needing a wideband kit and AFR gauge at some point. What are the most popular solutions? If it matters, I have an Interceptor-X.

Just looking for some opinions so I don't buy a shoddy product or get ripped off.

Red Devil

I'd get the one from Mazsport that is compatible with the Int-X, you then can datalog straight from the Int and see what it is seeing along with AFR...

Race Roots

iTrader: (64)

This thing is one option:

http://www.mazsport.net/store/index....uct_detail&p=8

AEM This is another:

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=67


If you are interested we carry the full line of AEM products

GaMEChld

Thanks for the feedback.

I did see the mazsport one before... I like how it works with the int-x, but the O2 sensor is like $450 by itself with the display as another $425, And I don't want the readout to be low in an ash tray. I think that AEM looks good. Its 52mm gauge which is perfect for putting into a well located gauge pod, and more like $300 for the sensor and gauge.

I think I am sold on that.

Does anyone know what kind of length the sensor has to play with? I wanted to leave the factory sensors as they are, and put the sensor in the catback region of my exhaust because there is a spare bung there. I am catless, so I don't have a cat to foul up the readings.

EDIT: Seeing the AEM go for about $240 on ebay from many sellers. Seems very affordable.

rotarygod

Why don't you just use the stock wideband O2 sensor? It works fine and you've already got it.

rollerbldes

Seriously.. just buy a ODB-II gauge.

Mr.&Mrs.Magic

iTrader: (3)

I hear tell the aem o2 sensor is calibrated for the gauge and thats why you have to replace the oem o2 with the aem 02(its a bosch just like ours soo??)

GaMEChld

Well I do have an OBD-II scanner, I guess I can check out some AFR info with that, I didn't realize the stock o2 sensors were accurate enough, I thought I heard somewhere they don't go low. But I'll check it out. Either way, I still want a gauge in the end so AFR is clearly visible right along with boost while driving, don't want to have to look down or anything.

EDIT: Also, after putting in my turbo kit, I am getting a CEL for the Front Heated O2 Sensor. And after I put in my catless exhaust, I am getting another CEL for the other sensor. But why would the First sensor have yielded an error? Is it because the exhaust is abnormal compared to a stock car? or do you think i damaged the sensor? i heard this turbo xs exhaust will throw a cel anyway. Oddly enough, I was told I should have a CEL for removing the oem airpump, but I'm not getting one.

Mr.&Mrs.Magic

iTrader: (3)

if you can try and get an afr reading and it gives you a constant reading something like 11.4 no matter what load your at then you need a new front o2. I left mine exposed for 1 day in perfect weather conditions and it got ruined never even touched the damn thing

rotarygod

The info about the stock O2 sensor not going as low as aftermarket sensors is true however it already goes lower than you'd ever want to tune for anyways which makes it perfectly acceptable. There's no point in having more when it's outside your usable range.

shaunv74

Mine goes to 11...

Yes I can datalog with my stock O2 sensor through the OBD2 port down in the 11.0 range. Ask me how I know.

The only thing I've run in to is the highest read rate I can capture is 1/50ms so to get as many data points as possible I recommend logging as few parameters as you can at the same time and doing runs in 3rd gear or higher so it takes longer to move through the RPM range.

GaMEChld

In the end, I'm thinking I'll be somewhere around 10.5 when in boost.

shaunv74

I'm not sure what the lower limit is my stock map only went down to 11...thank god.

Some of the turbo guys like Kane and MM should know.

05rex8

iTrader: (7)

you will want to be high 11's to low 12's in boost

mdw1000

Anybody know how to interpret the number you get from the scangauge for O2? It is a number from 0 to 99.

rotarygod

It's interesting to see an a/f in the 10's mentioned here. I always thought that was just an RX-7 bandaid tuning method. What I mean by that is that many people tune it way too rich in order to try to use the fuel as a cooling device. It's all nice on paper but doesn't work as well in the real world. Simple auxiliary injection with even plain water can make more power than this with a/f's in the 12's and it'll be safer.

As a general rule if you have to tune it that rich to not detonate you have one of two problems. One is that you are using too low of an octane fuel for your power goals. Two would be that you are running way too much boost for the fuel used. These actually go hand in hand and are the same thing. It just depends on how you look at it.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The OE sensor will read down to 11.2:1
Maximum power will occur around 12.3:1 in a boosted application.
11.7:1 is plenty safe.

That said, the PLX is the best wideband on the market.
I use the Innovate stuff, but mainly because that is what I have, not because its what I want.

GaMEChld

Hmm, Well perhaps I am a bit paranoid when it comes to detonation. Maybe I will keep it higher. Being out of optimum power isn't as big an issue as keeping the engine safe for me, but if you say 11.7 is safe then I misjudged it.

Thanks, I'll keep looking into it. I'll have a better idea when I can figure out how rich my base map is running.

Does anyone happen to know how to pull AFR with a ScanGauge II OBDII Scanner?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Plug it in. Read the number. Get beer.

GaMEChld

I don't think AFR is a standard reading for the scangauge, I think I have to program it in, but I've never done that before

mdw1000

You can program it in and get a readout from 0 to 99, but I don't know how to interpret that number as an AFR.