Single Exhaust Anyone?
#1
Single Exhaust Anyone?
If anyone can answer this if they make a single exhaust for the 8, like an N/A exhaust, do they not because it not enough back pressure? or because it wont give enough power, im thinking of trying to get a custom one made with like an Apexi N1 muffler let me know what u think and if they make any out there?
#2
He's as bad as Can
#5
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Originally Posted by rkostolni
Who's making your exhaust? I'll be interested to hear it.
#6
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Originally Posted by expo1
I think a custom route would be much better, like carbonRX8 is doing.
#7
never give up
Watch out for hand made exhausts. The insides specs of an exhaust specialized for rotary are very different than piston engines.
In greece we are waiting for single muffler exhaust around May, completely made of titanium. Light as hell and a copycat of jap tuner racing exhaust and the most important, a complete copy of the inside of the exhaust. Thus giving us guaranteed performance over dual muffler setups.
PS.: Trust Japan also has in its catalogues a single muffler exhaust for the RX8, not Greddy USA though. So check out jdm mags for this one.
In greece we are waiting for single muffler exhaust around May, completely made of titanium. Light as hell and a copycat of jap tuner racing exhaust and the most important, a complete copy of the inside of the exhaust. Thus giving us guaranteed performance over dual muffler setups.
PS.: Trust Japan also has in its catalogues a single muffler exhaust for the RX8, not Greddy USA though. So check out jdm mags for this one.
Last edited by peloponisios; 01-19-2006 at 05:49 AM.
#8
i thought i was the only one thinking about this,its kinda worthless spending 600 bucks or more on a greddy if your only gonna get so much power and i also think a single apexi n1 slanted to the side would look nice and give as much power also if any one can post pics when they get theres please do i would love to see it
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Apexi N1 single slanted to the side? Please don't do that
#11
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Originally Posted by peloponisios
Watch out for hand made exhausts. The insides specs of an exhaust specialized for rotary are very different than piston engines.
#12
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I am curous as to what that RB single sounds like and what it looks like installed. Does anybody have one yet?
________
Bubbler Pipe
________
Bubbler Pipe
Last edited by dmorales; 09-09-2011 at 02:25 AM.
#13
well it doesnt have to be an apexi n1 pipe and ur right they do sound like *** , but i just wanted to be different instead of dual try a single but not the racing beat pipe i like the style though, maybe a dif. name brand maybe if u guys have any suggestion let me know
#14
There is a guy in Georgia who did a single exhaust setup with the pipe coming out the rear rotary accent, kinda like a Porsche. I've seen it in person and he posted about it on here a while back. Custom setup.
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is the racing beat single exhuast exit good in flow? because i see it maybe exiting on the rear right? if so -- is this the best exit i think maybe a left exit would be better flow wise but im no expert so what does everyone think?
#17
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custom, 9 lbs complete including the feeder pipe
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=47
building a dual muffler street version
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...4&postcount=24
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=47
building a dual muffler street version
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...4&postcount=24
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
custom, 9 lbs complete including the feeder pipe
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=47
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=47
#19
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It is the factory feed pipe with the muffler cut off, it is very light, I'd guess maybe 18 or 20 Ga tube material with a stamped cat-back flange, which is also the way to keep weight out, but then it also mounts perfectly to the factory cat pipe. The clamp holds a single hanger that goes to the forward LH muffler mount using an OE rubber hanger. I'm welding the two pipes together so that will eliminate the one heavy clamp and the tip was cut to be shorter and welded directly to the muffler eliminating that clamp too. It had that stuff for adjustability since I had to approximate and guess a bit when I ordered the parts the first time through. It's all 2.5" which is more than adequate for a a stock NA engine with factory cat and straight through muffler.
On the street version I'l use two Burns mufflers turned out to the side and then tips out both bumper surrounds just like all the aftermarket stuff. I dropped down to 2" for the mufflers which again is more than adequate for the same situation as above since the flow is split in two, which also helps keep the noise in check. Probably use 4" doublewall polished tips, still haven't finalized those.
For my new race system I'm building a custom 3" midpipe with cat, and exhaust system. My cat was delivered the other day it's huge, 5" diameter. Most of the aftermarket midpipes just have the 2-5/8" header inlet on one side of the flange and the 3" tube directly welded on the other side with no transition, same for the exhaust connection, which is not the best for flow. My header flange will transition and I'm using a 3" gasketless ball socket flange connection at the rear midpipe end to have max flow all the way through yet still flex like the OE joint. I intend to have several Burns mufflers on it to abate the noise (probably 3) and just dump it with a turndown near the rear diff. I have an RE Amemiya header to feed it all.
Here's the cat, don't bother asking because I'm not telling except to say that it's rated for 1850 degF continuous and 2100 degF short term peak and can easily handle the flow of a turbo it costs $$$ but you get what you pay for
On the street version I'l use two Burns mufflers turned out to the side and then tips out both bumper surrounds just like all the aftermarket stuff. I dropped down to 2" for the mufflers which again is more than adequate for the same situation as above since the flow is split in two, which also helps keep the noise in check. Probably use 4" doublewall polished tips, still haven't finalized those.
For my new race system I'm building a custom 3" midpipe with cat, and exhaust system. My cat was delivered the other day it's huge, 5" diameter. Most of the aftermarket midpipes just have the 2-5/8" header inlet on one side of the flange and the 3" tube directly welded on the other side with no transition, same for the exhaust connection, which is not the best for flow. My header flange will transition and I'm using a 3" gasketless ball socket flange connection at the rear midpipe end to have max flow all the way through yet still flex like the OE joint. I intend to have several Burns mufflers on it to abate the noise (probably 3) and just dump it with a turndown near the rear diff. I have an RE Amemiya header to feed it all.
Here's the cat, don't bother asking because I'm not telling except to say that it's rated for 1850 degF continuous and 2100 degF short term peak and can easily handle the flow of a turbo it costs $$$ but you get what you pay for
Last edited by TeamRX8; 01-20-2006 at 12:06 AM.
#20
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there is a forum member.. i don't know how to spell his user name. but his name is gene. with a white 8 with a single exhaust, his user name is something like awwaaqwa or something random like that. should search for it. i would but im too lazi =)
#21
never give up
Originally Posted by carbonRX8
Maybe you want to explain in a little more detail what you mean here?
I mean that the diafragms(i don't know the english word for the inside of an exhaust-like the cells of the high flow cat) are completely different than a common let's say sebring exhaust.
We have tried single exhausts that were hand made against dual mufflers made by greddy and we reported a loss rather than gains, except weight.
So in order to get this thing working, because if we take for example my trust ti dual muffler exhaust which has two (again i don't know the english word) thingies before the mufflers, u know two compared with the stock which has one big and two outputs-only JIC and Amemiya make the same setup like stock-and also same diameter pipes with the midpipe(which is bad for backpressure and gas flowing-even if it is a very small amount given that all the flow has already been repressed by the header-it is a loss nevertheless) and a common hand made single exhaust, i have gains not the single, and this is tested. Trust ti is good for up 400 hp but THERE is a loss compared to a full tuned single exhaust.
And a full tuned single exhaust that won't cost as hell (therefore handmade) means that one must take the courage to cut open a single exhaust especially for rotaries(fd, fc's won't matter) and see the insides and fully copycat them. Then i believe you will have a fully working system.
#22
never give up
Originally Posted by jus7o
is the racing beat single exhuast exit good in flow? because i see it maybe exiting on the rear right? if so -- is this the best exit i think maybe a left exit would be better flow wise but im no expert so what does everyone think?
Japanese rx8's with single exhausts(and there are many-believe me) have the output to the left because they drive right.
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HEY TeamRX-8.. yreading through your setup... very custom and sounds really interesting.. ...my guess is you want the most free flowing exhaust possible so wont the 3 mufflers and cat just restrict flow??
really interested in the setup..
really interested in the setup..
Last edited by RX4life; 01-20-2006 at 03:54 AM.
#24
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no, they will be 3" straight-thru style so there really is no restriction, have to run a cat per the rules.
The left/right thing is just preference, it won't make any difference one way or the other, or to not even bother and just dump it somewhere near the back
I disagree about bringing the header outlet down to the smaller outlet size. This is actually a common convergent merge technique, there's nothing wrong with the header outlet throat diameter. The problem is it needs to be followed by a divergent transition to maximize effectiveness and almost nobody is doing this, plus the way the factory gasket has the sleeve tube on the midpipe side doesn't allow it to mate well on the header side. The sleeve pipe should really be on the header side and slip into the midpipe for the best flow transition. I'm contemplating converting my RE Amemiya header to eliminate the factory flange & gasket. This would also allow me to put the primary O2 sensor into the common collector rather than in a single tube as they did it and have a smoother transition.
The left/right thing is just preference, it won't make any difference one way or the other, or to not even bother and just dump it somewhere near the back
I disagree about bringing the header outlet down to the smaller outlet size. This is actually a common convergent merge technique, there's nothing wrong with the header outlet throat diameter. The problem is it needs to be followed by a divergent transition to maximize effectiveness and almost nobody is doing this, plus the way the factory gasket has the sleeve tube on the midpipe side doesn't allow it to mate well on the header side. The sleeve pipe should really be on the header side and slip into the midpipe for the best flow transition. I'm contemplating converting my RE Amemiya header to eliminate the factory flange & gasket. This would also allow me to put the primary O2 sensor into the common collector rather than in a single tube as they did it and have a smoother transition.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 01-20-2006 at 10:09 AM.