Replacing Alternator
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Replacing Alternator
Hello,
I'll be replacing my alternator with an Iraggi 220amp alternator after the new year. Are there any post detailing how to remove the alternator? I haven't been able to find one .
Any pics or info would be greatly appreciated.
Here's a link from another thread with some pricing info for Iraggi alternators for the RX8. I spoke with Dom from Iraggi alternators he builds these using the OEM RX8 alternator housing so it should be a direct bolt in.
I'll be replacing my alternator with an Iraggi 220amp alternator after the new year. Are there any post detailing how to remove the alternator? I haven't been able to find one .
Any pics or info would be greatly appreciated.
Here's a link from another thread with some pricing info for Iraggi alternators for the RX8. I spoke with Dom from Iraggi alternators he builds these using the OEM RX8 alternator housing so it should be a direct bolt in.
Last edited by kimota; 12-22-2007 at 04:56 PM.
#2
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Hello,
I'll be replacing my alternator with an Iraggi 220amp alternator after the new year. Are there any post detailing how to remove the alternator? I haven't been able to find one .
Any pics or info would be greatly appreciated.
Here's a link from another thread with some pricing info for Iraggi alternators for the RX8. I spoke with Dom from Iraggi alternators he builds these using the OEM RX8 alternator housing so it should be a direct bolt in.
I'll be replacing my alternator with an Iraggi 220amp alternator after the new year. Are there any post detailing how to remove the alternator? I haven't been able to find one .
Any pics or info would be greatly appreciated.
Here's a link from another thread with some pricing info for Iraggi alternators for the RX8. I spoke with Dom from Iraggi alternators he builds these using the OEM RX8 alternator housing so it should be a direct bolt in.
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It would be better if u can just download all service manual.
Just in case one day that site goes offline.
Just in case one day that site goes offline.
You are wise , should be receiving the Iraggi 220amp alternator today. Hopefully I'll install it tommorow, thanks again for all the info.
#10
Also how much did he charge for the alternator.
Thanks
U1cracka
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Sorry for the slow update the Irraggi alternators been installed for about 2 months with no issue. I ended having the dealer install it think they charged $135 for the install if memory serves me right.
I did attempt it myself gettng the belt of was a piece of cake but digggin a little deeper into the service manual I would have to remove the air intake system, and bumper to remove the alternator .
The Irraggi alternator was identical to the RX8 oem so it fit with no issue.
I did attempt it myself gettng the belt of was a piece of cake but digggin a little deeper into the service manual I would have to remove the air intake system, and bumper to remove the alternator .
The Irraggi alternator was identical to the RX8 oem so it fit with no issue.
#12
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Sorry for the slow update the Irraggi alternators been installed for about 2 months with no issue. I ended having the dealer install it think they charged $135 for the install if memory serves me right.
I did attempt it myself gettng the belt of was a piece of cake but digggin a little deeper into the service manual I would have to remove the air intake system, and bumper to remove the alternator .
The Irraggi alternator was identical to the RX8 oem so it fit with no issue.
I did attempt it myself gettng the belt of was a piece of cake but digggin a little deeper into the service manual I would have to remove the air intake system, and bumper to remove the alternator .
The Irraggi alternator was identical to the RX8 oem so it fit with no issue.
Well, u probably dont have the right tool to do it, I know I have K&N Ver II, but its no different in terms of removing the Alternator.
Edited : Oh, How is the 220amp Alternator ? Do u have lots of stuff in the car or something ?
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The Alternators been great, I have a CarPC and After market Stereo with 2X amps.
Check out the links below they detail removing the alternator. The alternator looks like its easy to access but the bar that adjusts tension for the belt prevents you from easily removing the alternator without some major disassembly.
Check the link below and look at the instructions on changing the alternator they get pretty involved.
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
If you look at the url rx7 is mentioned but on the webpage it list the manual as the RX8 which it actually is.
P.S
What is that GOD like burger you use for an avatar?
Check out the links below they detail removing the alternator. The alternator looks like its easy to access but the bar that adjusts tension for the belt prevents you from easily removing the alternator without some major disassembly.
Check the link below and look at the instructions on changing the alternator they get pretty involved.
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
If you look at the url rx7 is mentioned but on the webpage it list the manual as the RX8 which it actually is.
P.S
What is that GOD like burger you use for an avatar?
Last edited by kimota; 03-28-2008 at 03:04 PM.
#14
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(I know this is an old thread, but I have some experience to share about this)
1) Definitely get a copy of the service manual- it's not needed, but it's helpful just so you know which bolts you do and no not need to remove
2) You do NOT need to remove any part of the intake system, even though it says you do in the manual.
3) You DO need to remove the long curved black metal piece that the tensioner bolt connects to. (3x 12mm nuts) And to get to two of those bolts holding that black piece on, you need to remove a pulley lower down, which was 3x 10mm I believe.
4) I bought a used alternator and needed to swap out the pulley. I don't know if new alternators come with the pulley or not, I'd guess not. THIS WAS A HUGE PAIN IN THE *** because the main bolt (24mm I think?) was on so tight from the factory, AND when you try to turn it the alternator internals turn as well, so you can't exert torque on it. We needed to wedge some steel screwdrivers into the thing to "lock" it while turning the nut with a breaker bar. This, however, destroyed the internals really badly; I'm sure there's a way, but I have no idea how you could get this pulley off without destroying it in the process.
5) It took us 2 hours total.
6) The belt tension is a guessing game. I marked the tensioner bolt before I removed it, but I have a feeling some things changed because it seemed way too tight when Iput it back together. So- don't rely on markings and try to set the right tension from scratch, though this is hard without a special tool.
1) Definitely get a copy of the service manual- it's not needed, but it's helpful just so you know which bolts you do and no not need to remove
2) You do NOT need to remove any part of the intake system, even though it says you do in the manual.
3) You DO need to remove the long curved black metal piece that the tensioner bolt connects to. (3x 12mm nuts) And to get to two of those bolts holding that black piece on, you need to remove a pulley lower down, which was 3x 10mm I believe.
4) I bought a used alternator and needed to swap out the pulley. I don't know if new alternators come with the pulley or not, I'd guess not. THIS WAS A HUGE PAIN IN THE *** because the main bolt (24mm I think?) was on so tight from the factory, AND when you try to turn it the alternator internals turn as well, so you can't exert torque on it. We needed to wedge some steel screwdrivers into the thing to "lock" it while turning the nut with a breaker bar. This, however, destroyed the internals really badly; I'm sure there's a way, but I have no idea how you could get this pulley off without destroying it in the process.
5) It took us 2 hours total.
6) The belt tension is a guessing game. I marked the tensioner bolt before I removed it, but I have a feeling some things changed because it seemed way too tight when Iput it back together. So- don't rely on markings and try to set the right tension from scratch, though this is hard without a special tool.
#18
Torque required for alternator pulley??
I'm getting ready to replace my stock pullies with the Greddy kit, and was wondering if anybody is aware of the torque required on the main alternator bolt. Any response would be greatly appreciated, as I am performing this in a couple weeks. Alos, a response with a link to a website is also accepted.
Thank you
Thank you
#19
Nevermind... Found the torque required. Website is this: http://isomerica.net/~fluffy/Ren/RX8%20FSM/
Click on the 4th index (3EngineDetails.pdf) and go about 3/4 down the page. The generator install/battery install are in the same section.
Torque/bolt size is listed as follows:
Alternator Pulley: 72.3-101.0 ft. lbs/24mm stock bolt
Eccentric Pulley: 10-12 ft. lbs/10mm stock bolt, 5mm hex/allen bolt for Agency Power Pulley
Water Pump Pulley: 69.1-95.5 in. lbs (converts to 5.8-7.9 ft. lbs)/5mm Greddy Pulley bolts
Click on the 4th index (3EngineDetails.pdf) and go about 3/4 down the page. The generator install/battery install are in the same section.
Torque/bolt size is listed as follows:
Alternator Pulley: 72.3-101.0 ft. lbs/24mm stock bolt
Eccentric Pulley: 10-12 ft. lbs/10mm stock bolt, 5mm hex/allen bolt for Agency Power Pulley
Water Pump Pulley: 69.1-95.5 in. lbs (converts to 5.8-7.9 ft. lbs)/5mm Greddy Pulley bolts
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Sorry for responding to an old thread but I found this thread to be useful when trying to replace my alternator, or rather "generator" (although the RX8 service manuals occasionally call it an alternator, the majority of the references are made as generator controlled by PCM).
I did not remove the air intake system to get the alternator out, and I did not take the pulley off either (the one that blockes the nuts to the black tensioner bar). All I did was remove the two bolts on the top used to regulate the tension, the vertical nut half way down the black bar, and then totally loosened the two nuts behind the pulley with a 12mm wrench. the black bar can now move towards you enough to remove the alternator without having to remove it completely.
Of course you have to remove the bar that crosses the entire engine compartment, and disconnect a rubber tube connected between the oil knozzle and the air intake system - just disconnect one side and move it out the way.
This is the first time I replace an alternator and it took me just over an hour as I reduced what I had to do as much as possible.
I am hoping that replacing the generator will stop the alt light from comming on randomly at low revs or during city driving.
Hope this helps others!
I did not remove the air intake system to get the alternator out, and I did not take the pulley off either (the one that blockes the nuts to the black tensioner bar). All I did was remove the two bolts on the top used to regulate the tension, the vertical nut half way down the black bar, and then totally loosened the two nuts behind the pulley with a 12mm wrench. the black bar can now move towards you enough to remove the alternator without having to remove it completely.
Of course you have to remove the bar that crosses the entire engine compartment, and disconnect a rubber tube connected between the oil knozzle and the air intake system - just disconnect one side and move it out the way.
This is the first time I replace an alternator and it took me just over an hour as I reduced what I had to do as much as possible.
I am hoping that replacing the generator will stop the alt light from comming on randomly at low revs or during city driving.
Hope this helps others!
#21
Ok, I just went through this also. First of all, I chose to have a local guy rebuild my alternator instead of buy a reman via autozone or advance. Smart choice; he did a great job for $140. He said those reman'd alternators are crap and he often refuses to rebuild them.
Anyway, a few thoughts about the alternator replacement:
- You don't need to take off the black bracket. You do have to loosen it like elysium recommends. But it's worth loosening the air intake hose between the air filter housing and intake, and turning it to the right. You also have to remove a couple air hoses that connect to it. This buys you about 3/4" clearance, and you will need it all.
- Change your belts while you are at it; it's much easier to do this without the alternator in your way.
Otherwise, it's a pretty straightforward job.
Anyway, a few thoughts about the alternator replacement:
- You don't need to take off the black bracket. You do have to loosen it like elysium recommends. But it's worth loosening the air intake hose between the air filter housing and intake, and turning it to the right. You also have to remove a couple air hoses that connect to it. This buys you about 3/4" clearance, and you will need it all.
- Change your belts while you are at it; it's much easier to do this without the alternator in your way.
Otherwise, it's a pretty straightforward job.
#22
Hey guys, I am having trouble removing the alternator pulley. I tried holding the pulley with a strap wrench but it s pretty hard and I don't want to push it harder cuz I am afraid to damage something. I heard that using an impact wrench is not a good idea. does it come off clockwise? or counterclockwise?