Zelse

iTrader: (12)

Well I'm always free weekends, and I get home from work around 6 on weekdays. Let me know what works. I literally live down the street from Astral.

As for the spikes, if I get off the highway, the temp starts going from high 180's to about 200's. not even getting on it or anything. If I get on it on the highway, it'll go to about 208 and then stop hard there. SOMETIMES 212.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

to those following this thread. did a track day in alabama. air temp ~93 deg.

the h2o temp did not move all day. including a 40 min back to back session.. fan shut off after 1 min on normal sessions. 2 on the double stint. this is with the mazsport fan mod.

did not have a volunteer for a data logger. but i looked every front straight..

beers

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

77 out at night.. idle was 214... cruising on highway was 200...around town is 212. Are these normal temps to expect with 50/50 for coolant...?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I see that kind of temp all the time.

I guess it has something to do with the attitude level that we travel to ? in NYC I gotta keep going up and down hill all the time.

go up = higher?

go down = much lower ?

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

I'm in Boston MA.. lol. And no I have Ron Davis Radiator, Thermostat, and water pump with the Prestone 50/50.

No AC removal for extra cooling.. no AC on, no heat on, no different front bumper for extra air..nothing. This is what I was mentioning before.. I think my temps are pretty high.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I am in NYC(duh lol)

when I cruise(I-495 for example), it depends if there is a car in front of me (and how close it is), outside temp around 80f I can get the coolant temp down to something like 87 Celsius or less.

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

188 is still a lot colder then 208-200... What do you have for coolant?

Paul, any thoughts on my temperatures?

Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

Definitely high. I don't remember what you have for guages. Where is it being measured? With an ambient that cool your system should not have trouble achieving 180 idling and cruising.

Paul.

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

I'm using the Cobb and having it read coolant temps. Perhaps we should discuss install on the phone or something? Or something I should edit on the cobb?

For install I used DIY's on here and did everything I explained in my blog. I made sure everything is clamped down and installed properly... I honestly thought these temps were because I was running 50/50 or something and I just didn't know.

Now you guys have me scared :/

Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

Check your levels when the engine is totally cool again and later, make sure your fans are working properly. Nothing is wrong with getting to those temps; it's just not normal with this equipment unless you're pushing hard or out in a really hot tough environment (100 plus f and super low humidity).

Paul.

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

Gotcha. Well I'm not pushing it at all..literally. I'm just cruising on the streets. And it's not 100 hot, last night was 83.

Coolant level is a little above full, and I hear the fans working for sure all the time.

Test last night.. 83 out.. idle was at 210.
Crusing in 4th gear at 3.5RPM, 40mph, 199... and stayed 199 for 5 minutes. Didn't lower or anything, and I kept it consistent at this.
The moment I get to a redlight after the 5 minutes of straight driving and clutch in, then stop the car... it goes up to 208 and stays there.. maybe 210 then down back to 208.

After this, I went on the highway and at 60, in 6th gear at 3.5 RPM, I was getting 208 consistently for the whole 10 minutes I was on the highway.


Should I do another flush? What should I do about this if I shouldn't be seeing these levels, as my worry is obviously not only day to day driving..but runs on autocross and everything. I'd like to keep my engine..

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I have 50/50, or maybe 45-55 now (coolant/water) cuz the other day I reach 105 Celsius, cuz I push it really hard going up hill, the temp quickly went up and probably squirt some outa the coolant bottle, then when it cools I got the low coolant light, and added some distilled to it.

it might be a silly question but, Have you seal the side of the Radiator yet ?

I dont understand why Mazda not selling those seals as a separate part #, for my FC they sell them as separate.

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

..Seal the side of the radiator?

Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

The whole thing needs to be sealed. Mazda does a good job with some foam like material. Alot of people do extra insulating since the upgrade radiators don't have any foam. You do have the engine undercover installed? This is essential.

Paul.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

zelse: I'm going to chime in here and agree that those temps are above 'normal' for someone with your mods.

When you took off the stock radiator, there should have been some foam glued to the sides of it. The trick is to replicate that on aftermarket radiators. If you still have your stock rad, you can peel off the foam and crazy glue it on the Ron Davis. (this is what I did with my BHR rad)



The foam pieces look like this:

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yeah Zelse, I don't think we did that. Makes sense, airflow is passing around the radiator, not through it.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

^^^ now I see whose to blame for this.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yup, me too. James! Since he isn't here to defend himself.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

this "James" character is in trouble...

seriously though, putting the foam on afterwards shouldn't be too difficult. Easiest thing to do is remove a portion of the under tray and start gluing it back on.
If using crazy glue: apply it to radiator and then stick the foam on. (otherwise it'll eat the foam) Ask me how i know...

Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

This whole community is full with awesome and knowledgeable people who care about their fellow rotary enthusiast. Thanks Jedi!

Paul.

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

I honestly had NO idea that the foam would be this useful...I thought it was just there for the hell of it. Thanks guys.

Paul, this goes to show that relying on the DIY isn't useful and that instructions would be awesome. :D

Thanks guys, I'll do this ASAP and see how this goes.

Also to add, I removed all engine insulation and engine cover jazz....

Greenblurr93

iTrader: (1)

Whoa, If youre going to throw my under the moving bus, at least warn me first! haha

and yeah, no one thought of the foam, i didnt install my BHR, my body shop did...

swoope

iTrader: (5)

i dont have the foam in mine yet!

but for you the first thing i would do is drain the whole system again. including the engine while the front end is on jack stands.. the bolt to drain the engine is is on the drivers side just below the motor mount, near the oil pan sensor. over half the coolant in the system is still in the engine after your drain the radiator! i just did it, and i learned a lot.

then refill. start car and let it warm up.. fill as nessasary. drive for a day or two. then top off, and you will need to. if you do it this way you will get all the air out of the system.

if you have any questions pm me.

beers

LionZoo

Looks like I arrived here too late.

Having done a lot of thermal development work for fan cooled server systems, I can tell you that airflow management can make or break your temperatures. You should see some of the baffles that we came up with to make sure air went exactly where it was needed and not bypassing the critical parts!

I'm actually going to be staying in Boston this this weekend, so if you want to meet up (maybe to install some foam), I can help out.

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

? why do you think I should drain again though swoope? Remember, I replaced the thermostat, radiator, and waterpump, so I had to fully drain in the first place... you think air may have still gotten in?

And thanks for the help guys.