ok guys i just recently got a pulley setup, and i started to install it in my garage, got the belts off and altenator moved easly, but then i got stuck, how do i loosen the bolt on the altenator pulley? becuase the bolt spins freely with the pulley so how do i get so that i can break it loose?


thanks for the help

 

You will need an impact gun to take that pulley out.

 

ok, i have that, but how do i get to not to move? the bolt spins with the pulley? what is the best way to make it not move?

 

Try puting the belt back on. That resistance along with the torque of the impact wrench should allow you to remove the nut.

 

ok im gonna try that, i never thought of that, hopefully it will work

 

We did an install last weekend....I held the belt as tightly as I could, while the second person torqued the wrench.

We found that if you use a screwdriver on the second pulley (the one with the three bolts), you can use the screwdriver as leverage when torquing the bolts. Wish I had better English to describe what we did, but I was told that this was a standard method for removing those bolts.

You'll find the same difficulty in re-installing.

 

I screwed up my stock alternator pulley getting it off, because I clamped the little bugger with vice grips then hit the bolt with an impact wrench. Dummy me I guess.

 

All I did was grab the pulley with my hand and zip off the nut in like 2 seconds with the impact. It's not like holding the pulley with your hand will hurt, you just keep it from not moving. And if you're scared just wear a glove.

 

I'm trying to figure out what the torque specs are for the altenator pulley nut. Does anyone have the correct torque spec????? Please help

 

dang 3 year bump...
Idk what they are, just tight enough?? lol

 

ya im looking for specs too

 

Here:

 

The company I bought them from said that the waterpump and crank pulleys are only hand tight (about 7ft/lbs), and the altenator pulley is 45 ft/lbs. The mazda matainence book said that the crank pulley is at 152 ft/lbs and that's way off because the bolts are only 8mm, so I wouldn't trust the picture of the altenator assembly being that high. I'm going with what the company said.

 

If your doing hand tight (and I did the samething) check them from time to time.

 

Hey dominion (or anybody else), do you know if a 245 40 18 tire would fit on a stock rim? I want alittle more rubber on the road. If so, what kind would you sugest. I'm wanting to go with the ones I have Dunlop Direnzzas DZ101. Kinda off topic but still...

 

^ random lol check out will it fit under wheels n tires

 

Should. I had 245's on a 8" rim with a 45 off set. So yea. Oh I would look into what the numbers mean on the side wall of a tire and how to read them. That helped me out a lot. Also see what the guys in the racing section are running. You will find some crazy stuff in there.
Keep in mind the more meat you have on the side wall means more bounce back and can make your car wipout when you take a hard turn.

Anyway anyone have any other quesions about the pulley install? pm me or post up.

I just reinstalled mine. I had the plate behind it wrong. Thats why I had a flashing cel light p0300 but its a eazy fix.
If you have the flashing cel just reinstall the pulley. Pay attention on how the plate behind it is sitting. Turn in like 80 or 90 degrees the other way. Put everything back. Remove the battery - or red wire. Pump the brake peddle a few times till its hard lol
Reconnect the - or red wire. Turn the key pump the brake peddle as fast as you can till you see the oil gauge sweep up.
Turn the key back off and do this one; hold the trip button then turn the key to the on position and pump the brake peddle as fast as you can till the oil gauge sweeps and you see test where you miles are.
No more cel.

After the install;

Car wanted to die at a few stop lights. First thing that came to mind was great, my rear has bad compression.
Went to autozone they tested my battery its good, tested my alt its good, tested my starter its good.
I drove around for about 30 min shifting around 4 5 and 6k and the ecu relearned the new pulley.
No more dips in rpms where it feels like it wants to stall. Car pulls hella hard and feels great. Best bang for the buck mod yet.

-Gil

 

Dominion, what brand of pullies did you get and are they the stock diameter? Mine are from SR Motorsports and they are the stock diameter. The instructions said that you have to pump the brake peddle 25 times in 8 seconds and that would get rid of the cel. You also said that it has to face the proper way, but why would that matter because mine is just a dual pulley that has 2 slots for the 2 belts and nothing to have to line up?

 

How about 152inch-lbs...or about 12 ft-lbs

 

i have a question regarding the crank pulley.... How do I get the pulley off (to install an AP Underdrive Pulley)... Is there a "pulley-puller" that is used to get the OEM crank off? Can I spray some PB Blaster to loosen the pulley up a bit? I want to avoid using the rubber hammer.

Thanks!

 

Undo the 4 bolts.....take off pulleys....put on new ones...install bolts and torque...

The pulleys are not press fitted, or on a tapered keyway like some old V8

 

Thanks for the feedback!