Ahh ha, think I found my problem...after going over the wiring again I found that all the connections were good using a multimeter. I went out and got test light and started testing all the fuses, found a bad 15amp ENGINE fuse in the engine bay also found a bad 30amp fuse for the IG. Replaced and got a light for those now...the fuel pump and air pump both now charge and immobilizer light doesn't flash any more. It is too early for me to actually turn it over strictly because of the mid pipe but I will try later.

 

*update*

It's alive! Thanks to those that offered up some advice. Now all I got to do is swap out the mid pipe out this week and get an inspection this weekend.

 

Well, now that the start up issue has been solved I now have another. I went for a little drive this evening and I wanted to play around with the new coil kit so, while driving in 2nd at almost 4500rpm I decided to stomp on the gas...it was fine until it felt like I hit a brick wall at 6000rpm. Tried it a few times and the same result in 1-3, it just doesn't want to go higher than 6k. Any advice? I did swap out the plugs while I did the coil upgrade and of course made new wires since I moved the coils to the front of the engine bay.

 

engine fuse--hmmm thats waht happened to me too!
is it skipping--falling flat--what?
OD

 

More like skipping I guess. It has no power after 6k and it sounds like it does when you hit the rev limiter on the dyno.

 

have you checked your MAF sensor? that happened to me, but after i cleaned it the problem went away

 

I never thought about the MAF sensor. I guess I'll be cleaning that when I get off work in the morning.

 

Make sure you do the brake pedal dance after you clean the MAF.

 

Well, I cleaned my MAF and did the PCM reset procedures and finally went out and tried some high rpm testing. After a couple test runs I think I know what the problem is. I can bring the engine to redline as long as I gradually increase acceleration. If I stomp the gas, at around 5500rpm I get what could be described as fuel cut off. I'm thinking this is more of a fuel pump issue as I have been having issues with it for a little more than a month. So, I guess I will be ordering a new fuel pump in the near future.

 

i8u
take the pump out--remove the sock and see how it does. no kidding. you can also backwash the filter with the pump out.
olddragger

 

also it COULD Be ignition--double check sparkplug wires connections and the plugs are good. make sure the coils are good---my 1st set of yukons had a bad coil.
olddragger

 

I had planned on getting a new pump anyways. I did check my wires this morning, found a couple that were a little loose on the coil side. I think I'll be zip tying the boots to the coils just make sure they don't slip loose. I'll be doing a drive test later on after I get some rest.

Thanks for help OD.

 

If they were loose, then I suppose you do know that the should kind of snap on. You should be able to tell(on both ends) when they are on tight. Also..............how old are these plug wires?

 

It's not a matter of telling if they are on tight...they are a set of universal Moroso plug wires. I had to work the coil end with needle nose pliers to make them fit the male end of the LS2 coil. And the wires and plugs are brand new, they have 59 miles on them.

 

Ah.................okay.............didn't know.............I'll shut up now.

 

i had a littel problem with that also BUT i found some ls/yukon coil specific connectors at summit racing---that "click" is reassuring.. they also had some 45 degree sparkplug boots that worked well
moroso makes both--not expensive.
olddragger

 

Hey olddragger, kind of off topic, but how did you find out which yukon coil was bad? Why I ask is because I have a set in my car also and would like to know how to be able to tell which is good and bad in the future. thanks

 

I'm gonna check on the ls2 specific connectors...I have 135 degree spark plug boots on now. It was my fault connecting those, I got a little anxious when hooking them up.

Well, after I did all the little tweeks I still get what feels like fuel cut off chatter. I'm gonna pull the pump tomorrow and clean or remove the filter depending on how f'd it is. I figure almost 50000 miles worth of premixing may have done it's damage. We'll see in the morning.

OD I'll give you a call tomorrow to let you know what I find.

 

Connect an inductive timing light to each plug wire and rev past 5k rpm. Verify that (one) you don’t have a bag coil by observing the light and making sure that it flashes steadily throughout the rev changes and (two) that the wire is good. I had a couple of new/bad coils in the past.

 

right on bro--that does it.
olddragger

 

This is one hell of a custom job , great work

 

I8U- I had the exact same issue when going into boost with my custom LS2 setup. It is most deff a misfire (sounds like a hard drag car 2-step, right?)

I had to crimp down the plug wire connectors on the coil side since the pin inside the LS2 coil is rather small.

I know you said you did this but try again- make sure you hear the "click"- they should be on tight! Or do what OD said and get the correct terminals from Summit.

It's odd tho- I did this fix and the car worked fine, even on the dyno. Then I swapped back to FD Trailing plugs in the leading hole (NGK BUR9EQP) and it came back without touching anything else. I re-crimped down my coil-side terminals tonight, I will test them tomorrow. Kinda odd.

 

^Man that is exactly what it sounds like! It finally threw a code lastnight...misfire cylinder1. So, atleast now I know it's one of the coils on the front rotor. I am gonna re-crimp them in the morning.

 

Yeah, recrimp down those coil-side terminals. If that doesn't work, put a timing light on the coils as Juan suggested and make sure you don't have a bum one.

If you bought them ebay like I did you may have gotten a used coil- some shady sellers (I know, shocking) are selling used coils labeled as "new", so beware.

 

I got the coils from a reputable company that does business with a few vendors here on the site. I'm trying to figure out how to keep the crimp tight because they spread out once they are installed. I will still ziptie the boot on once I get the "click".

Thanks for the help man, I was hoping someone else had the same problem before.