Most Economical Way to add Low End Torque?
10-10-2009, 10:31 AM
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Most Economical Way to add Low End Torque?
Hi, I just got my 8 a couple months ago and was wondering if there was a cheap way to add a little more low end torque w/out doing f.i.
10-10-2009, 11:06 AM
#4
He's as bad as Can
An 8 year old mustang GT would be cheaper than a GTO. By to the OP there is no further reason to keep this thread open, you should delete your post and make this go away. There are no cheap ways to add power to this car. Your question has been asked since 2002 and the answer is the same FI or Nitrous
10-10-2009, 05:30 PM
#9
all the bolt on NA mods in the world still won't give you jack squat for torque.
Get a turbo if you want torque, it won't be cheap, but you can double (or more) the stock toque fairly easily with it.
Get a turbo if you want torque, it won't be cheap, but you can double (or more) the stock toque fairly easily with it.
10-10-2009, 09:31 PM
#12
depends on the torque u want to achieve vs investment
example:
option 1: $4600 = maybe 40-60 hp
cobb ap - $700
bhr ignition-$500
act clutch kit- $400
prolite flywheel- $250
pwr radiator- $400
good coilover suspension kit- $1000
front & rear sway bars- $400
pulley kit - $300
add the labor cost to install all the above $1000
Option 2 = $3500 depends tuning + 100hp
turbo $2800
cobb ap- $700
conclusion if u bought a Rx8 thinking you can modify like a cheap car, spend big or go home
example:
option 1: $4600 = maybe 40-60 hp
cobb ap - $700
bhr ignition-$500
act clutch kit- $400
prolite flywheel- $250
pwr radiator- $400
good coilover suspension kit- $1000
front & rear sway bars- $400
pulley kit - $300
add the labor cost to install all the above $1000
Option 2 = $3500 depends tuning + 100hp
turbo $2800
cobb ap- $700
conclusion if u bought a Rx8 thinking you can modify like a cheap car, spend big or go home
10-10-2009, 11:55 PM
#13
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depends on the torque u want to achieve vs investment
example:
option 1: $4600 = maybe 40-60 hp
cobb ap - $700
bhr ignition-$500
act clutch kit- $400
prolite flywheel- $250
pwr radiator- $400
good coilover suspension kit- $1000
front & rear sway bars- $400
pulley kit - $300
add the labor cost to install all the above $1000
Option 2 = $3500 depends tuning + 100hp
turbo $2800
cobb ap- $700
conclusion if u bought a Rx8 thinking you can modify like a cheap car, spend big or go home
example:
option 1: $4600 = maybe 40-60 hp
cobb ap - $700
bhr ignition-$500
act clutch kit- $400
prolite flywheel- $250
pwr radiator- $400
good coilover suspension kit- $1000
front & rear sway bars- $400
pulley kit - $300
add the labor cost to install all the above $1000
Option 2 = $3500 depends tuning + 100hp
turbo $2800
cobb ap- $700
conclusion if u bought a Rx8 thinking you can modify like a cheap car, spend big or go home
while noturd here is on the right track, take any of those numbers for a grain of salt.
from option one - 1)its possible to see 20hp from tuning but very unlikely unless you've already spent the money getting rid of the cat converter 2)its possible to regain horsepower lost through shitty coils, but extremely unlikely to add any actual measurable power 3)between the clutch and flywheel, IF you choose the right ones(not what you see in that list) you can remove enough mass to see 5-8whp improvement via efficiency 4)pulleys have been questionably assigned 1-2hp gains... So, as you can see the couple of bolt on power adders listed arent really adding up to much. You also have headers, extensive exhaust customization etc etc that you can play with. You have the option of extensive intake customization but guarantee whatever you can gain at a given rpm, you will loose elsewhere and then some. To date the best reputable dyno result from an NA car is about 220WHP. thats roughly 40whp improvement over stock with extremely good tuning. most people are lucky to see 200WHP
from option two - $3500 is not even a place to start. double it and you being more realistic. the truth is your looking at 2800 minimum for the cheapest kit availible. you still need gauges and the associated equipment, boost control, installation, dozens of minor things that do add very quickly, Oh - and unless you plan to be rebuilding the turbo/motor very quickly - you'll be replacing half the parts that come with such a low cost kit(including having the turbo itself upgraded)....
-i know this may seem a bit harsh to some, but dozens of others here can vouch for the expense. you cannot count the times new guys have come here, boosted their motor, not spent the due time and diligence researching nor the due cost doing it properly, then 3 months later blowing a motor and selling all their parts to pay for a rebuild - then selling the car. I personally was inches from being boosted - I had in possesion most of the parts to go ahead with the install, i was looking at a total cost of no less than $7K. I sold everything I had - I decided I was NOT gong to be one of those guys who boosts a motor I cannot afford to loose. I will be back to the turbo route one day, but it's flat out irresponsible financially to boost a motor that you cannot afford to loose.
the plus side - the FI route can easily put you to the 250-350+whp range.
in conclusion your options are:
1) bolt ons - 20(realistic) to 40(max) horsepower gain at a cost of hundreds to thousands
2) forced induction - 70-100+ horsepower gain at a cost of $5K+(minimum!) and hopefully in doing so, being in a financial/logistical position where you can afford to loose the motor and not have it turn your day to day life upside down
Last edited by paulmasoner; 10-11-2009 at 12:25 AM.
10-11-2009, 12:41 AM
#19
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You bought a car with a small engine yet you want low end power and don't want forced induction. Here's the problem. Torque is directly proportional to displacement and hence horsepower is also affected. It is a force applied over an area. Having small displacement means that you don't have much area. That means you need more force which is only going to happen with forced induction. If you don't want forced induction then you need more area which means a bigger engine. What you are asking quite frankly isn't going to happen. You have 3 options. 1: sell the car and buy something with a bigger engine. 2: live with what you've got. 3: forced induction. Not an ******* response. Just an honest one. What you ask is impossible.
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longpath (07-17-2017)
10-11-2009, 03:34 PM
#21
oh boy, here we go...
while noturd here is on the right track, take any of those numbers for a grain of salt.
from option one - 1)its possible to see 20hp from tuning but very unlikely unless you've already spent the money getting rid of the cat converter 2)its possible to regain horsepower lost through shitty coils, but extremely unlikely to add any actual measurable power 3)between the clutch and flywheel, IF you choose the right ones(not what you see in that list) you can remove enough mass to see 5-8whp improvement via efficiency 4)pulleys have been questionably assigned 1-2hp gains... So, as you can see the couple of bolt on power adders listed arent really adding up to much. You also have headers, extensive exhaust customization etc etc that you can play with. You have the option of extensive intake customization but guarantee whatever you can gain at a given rpm, you will loose elsewhere and then some. To date the best reputable dyno result from an NA car is about 220WHP. thats roughly 40whp improvement over stock with extremely good tuning. most people are lucky to see 200WHP
from option two - $3500 is not even a place to start. double it and you being more realistic. the truth is your looking at 2800 minimum for the cheapest kit availible. you still need gauges and the associated equipment, boost control, installation, dozens of minor things that do add very quickly, Oh - and unless you plan to be rebuilding the turbo/motor very quickly - you'll be replacing half the parts that come with such a low cost kit(including having the turbo itself upgraded)....
-i know this may seem a bit harsh to some, but dozens of others here can vouch for the expense. you cannot count the times new guys have come here, boosted their motor, not spent the due time and diligence researching nor the due cost doing it properly, then 3 months later blowing a motor and selling all their parts to pay for a rebuild - then selling the car. I personally was inches from being boosted - I had in possesion most of the parts to go ahead with the install, i was looking at a total cost of no less than $7K. I sold everything I had - I decided I was NOT gong to be one of those guys who boosts a motor I cannot afford to loose. I will be back to the turbo route one day, but it's flat out irresponsible financially to boost a motor that you cannot afford to loose.
the plus side - the FI route can easily put you to the 250-350+whp range.
in conclusion your options are:
1) bolt ons - 20(realistic) to 40(max) horsepower gain at a cost of hundreds to thousands
2) forced induction - 70-100+ horsepower gain at a cost of $5K+(minimum!) and hopefully in doing so, being in a financial/logistical position where you can afford to loose the motor and not have it turn your day to day life upside down
while noturd here is on the right track, take any of those numbers for a grain of salt.
from option one - 1)its possible to see 20hp from tuning but very unlikely unless you've already spent the money getting rid of the cat converter 2)its possible to regain horsepower lost through shitty coils, but extremely unlikely to add any actual measurable power 3)between the clutch and flywheel, IF you choose the right ones(not what you see in that list) you can remove enough mass to see 5-8whp improvement via efficiency 4)pulleys have been questionably assigned 1-2hp gains... So, as you can see the couple of bolt on power adders listed arent really adding up to much. You also have headers, extensive exhaust customization etc etc that you can play with. You have the option of extensive intake customization but guarantee whatever you can gain at a given rpm, you will loose elsewhere and then some. To date the best reputable dyno result from an NA car is about 220WHP. thats roughly 40whp improvement over stock with extremely good tuning. most people are lucky to see 200WHP
from option two - $3500 is not even a place to start. double it and you being more realistic. the truth is your looking at 2800 minimum for the cheapest kit availible. you still need gauges and the associated equipment, boost control, installation, dozens of minor things that do add very quickly, Oh - and unless you plan to be rebuilding the turbo/motor very quickly - you'll be replacing half the parts that come with such a low cost kit(including having the turbo itself upgraded)....
-i know this may seem a bit harsh to some, but dozens of others here can vouch for the expense. you cannot count the times new guys have come here, boosted their motor, not spent the due time and diligence researching nor the due cost doing it properly, then 3 months later blowing a motor and selling all their parts to pay for a rebuild - then selling the car. I personally was inches from being boosted - I had in possesion most of the parts to go ahead with the install, i was looking at a total cost of no less than $7K. I sold everything I had - I decided I was NOT gong to be one of those guys who boosts a motor I cannot afford to loose. I will be back to the turbo route one day, but it's flat out irresponsible financially to boost a motor that you cannot afford to loose.
the plus side - the FI route can easily put you to the 250-350+whp range.
in conclusion your options are:
1) bolt ons - 20(realistic) to 40(max) horsepower gain at a cost of hundreds to thousands
2) forced induction - 70-100+ horsepower gain at a cost of $5K+(minimum!) and hopefully in doing so, being in a financial/logistical position where you can afford to loose the motor and not have it turn your day to day life upside down
If anyone thinks they can turbo an 8 on a tight budget, they are neglecting the biggest expense- they engine they will eventually blow.
So then they will become another one of the countless people on here that boost this car on a shoestring budget, blow the motor, cry about it, then sell all the parts and eventually sell the car and buy their Evo.
You can't turbo this car very cheaply. I think I got a GREAT deal on my used GReddy kit, but the turbo was trashed, I could have gotten it rebuilt (No BNR upgrade then tho) and I decided to not half *** it and upgrade the snail and other stuff. I think I've dropped over $6k on my turbo including parts, multiple dyno trips, trying different parts, etc.
10-11-2009, 08:02 PM
#24
T-400 with a ratchet shifter????? HAHAHHA
Low end grunt for about 10K
http://www.facebook.com/v/302050230614
http://www.facebook.com/v/302048970614
Low end grunt for about 10K
http://www.facebook.com/v/302050230614
http://www.facebook.com/v/302048970614
10-11-2009, 08:09 PM
#25
Those vids sucked, Kane! It would have been infinitely more entertaining if you took that Jeep off some sweet jumps or something.
It's funny because my DD in the winter is a '93 Ford F-350 with a 460 big block. It will spin it's 36" all terrain rubber (whole lot of tire) easy in 2nd gear from 1800 rpm, gotta love low-end torque
It's funny because my DD in the winter is a '93 Ford F-350 with a 460 big block. It will spin it's 36" all terrain rubber (whole lot of tire) easy in 2nd gear from 1800 rpm, gotta love low-end torque