rotarygod

There are many options out there that can be made to work quite well. Which one is ultimately better or a matter of opinion and also partially dependent on the intended use. If we had someone who was going to try to push 30 psi of boost, I'd say use the most high resolution maps you can find as the load points are spaced much farther apart. However, for most of us, any of these units could work quite well.

The FCON can only be tuned by a shop that has their software. That shop may or may not know all the ins and outs of rotary tuning. Just changing fuel and timing on a dyno until it looks good may work quite niecly but there are some other things that can be done with timing split that will also affect power that some may not think to try. You are also assuming that the shop you are having tune it is actually good at tuning. Just because they have the equipment, doesn't necessarily mean they can use it. I'm not saying that there is a shop that is like this. It is just a risk you are taking. If tuned properly, the FCON can work just fine. It isn't going to be the cheap option and you have no control over any changes that get made.

The emanage ultimate may appear to be cheap compared to other options and for just the parts, it is. This is the first emanage that may actually have business being installed in a car and appears to have some good potential from what I have seen. For the people that don't want to cut up their harness, you'll need the $200 patch harness that allows you to plug directly in and tap into the new harness. You have the price of the ecu of course and all of it's associated harnesses. Then you need to wire it all up yourself. For some people this isn't an issue. There are many people that may have the ability and patience to do this. Then once it is installed and working, you have to tune it. Again there are some out there that can do this. I personally don't think ecu tuning is hard to learn but there is more to it than many people think there is. This is even more risky to the people trying to learn for the first time who are using forced induction. You might get a decent map on your own with enough trial and error and a wideband ecu but you may still want to go find a dyno and an experienced rotary tuner (that's the key) to get all the power out of it. This will cost money. The sacrifice you are making to save money over other ecu options is that it is do it yourself. Support should you run into trouble is also scarce. Greddy isn't going to help you. For some people this isn't a problem and not a concern. If you go this route, understand this.

The Interceptor is fairly expensive. What are you paying for? A fully programmable ecu solution. That's fine. You are paying for that with others as well. The extra money you are paying for it is because someone has done all of your wiring and base map work for you. This isn't as quick or easy as it sounds. On top of that you have fantastic support if you have any problems. Do you NEED a dyno tune? No but you probably should to get every last little bit of power out of it. If you want to tweak it yourself and want to learn, Scott will gladly get on the phone and walk you through changing some things if you need it. He has even flown out to other parts of the country to tune cars for his customers. How may other ecu companies will send someone out to personally tune your car? I'll wait for an answer to that one. Especially when that person isn't making any profit off of it other than to keep his customers happy. That's what you are paying additional for over other alternatives. as with any ecu, some people don't care about this and can do it themselves. Many others can't.

Is the Interceptor the best ecu out there? No but what is? Is it a Motec? Haltech? Greddy? HKS? Wolf? What makes one better than the other? If they all do their intended job and meet your needs, why is one better than the other? Is it price? Service? For some the cheaper more do it yourself alternative is better. For others the more expensive plug and play customer service oriented system is better? There are any number of systems that can actually work well. How easy it is to make that happen is part of the price you pay. The point is that every ecu solution out there has someone it is best for. For Jeff, it's the emanage. He knows it very well and has done wonders for it. For others it may be the HKS or the Interceptor. That's fine.

It's not hard to load maps from one system to another. You just have to enter in the parameters manually as they don't directly port. If we know timing, timing split, and a/f ratio at all points, we can adapt them to any other system. We should all be sharing our maps so others can try the same or similar setups, regardless of what they are using. Let's not be like the RX-7 community. Lets help all RX-8 owners out regardless of what they use. We help our own kind.

ghlisa

Here is some picture of the project:

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What is the level of boost is consider safe for the 93oct and the 112oct for the 13B renesis?? Someones saids the dynos numbers on the forum is not true, because in many Japan shops tried to boost the 13B renesis and no one was hold more than 7psi, everytime is Bumb!!!!

Also the top tuner from JUN is saids same thing and he dont feel the confidence to make the tune with the HKS F CON V to my RX8, because in his concept the 13B renesis is not good for turbo applications.

Can someone tell me a sucessfull tuning the 13B renesis without blow the engine on the tuning, and how much boost was and how many rwhp gets??? Because on forum is a lot of dynos, but most of that is a long time of tuning and maybe blow many engine to get the sucessfull tuning, but nobody will tell that is blow the engine before.

Everything is ready, and right now is only waiting for tuning.

rotarygod

There is no direct correlation between boost pressure and octane when it comes to tuning. It all depends on how you tune it. So far people here have gone up to about 14 psi of boost and had no issues when tuned properly.

Japanese tuners aren't necessarily the best in the world. I don't know why many think they are. Personally I've never been impressed with many of them.

ghlisa

Can you tell me who's sucessfull tuning of the 13B renesis with more than 10psi without any issue or blow up the rotors??? I need they help, because I read in major upgrades here and see something that is made me think that the theory of Mr. Koyoma is right. For example, I talked to Tim of SFR on friday and he told me the safe boost for the 13B Renesis is 7psi (on wastegate only), for more of that get some issues and from one post of Scott also, have dynos of 5psi, 7psi, 9psi and 12psi, but he admited is a issue problem in 12psi. And also is something very irregular I saw in Scott dynos, for every dyno, the level of the hp is increase, but the irregular, is when he increased the boost step by step, he reduce the rpm to run, basically on 5psi on his dyno, he run on the dyno 8,500rpm, 7psi he runs only 7,500rpm, 9psi and 12psi in 6,800rpm. So, I think something is wrong here, he 13B Renesis in N/A applications is run 9,000rpm. So why Scott cutting at that low rpms?? the rotors wild blow up after that limit???

Im not expert in rotarys, this is my first rotary car, but I have a anothers pistons cars with turbo applications and what we run before in N/A mode, I can run same or more rpm after make the upgrades to turbocharge application.

rotarygod

Scott said the car has ignition breakup so he had to be more careful the higher in boost he went. He had to hold the rpm's down as a result with higher boost. You should upgrade the ignition system. You will not get around this issue. The issue was not that the engine couldn't take it. It can and he feels it can top 400 hp. I don't see why it wouldn't. Youwill ned to do ignition and fuel system work to get it though. Don't plan on much above 300 hp if you don't address these issues. Give Scott a call. He doesn't lie or mislead about his results as some seem to imply that he does. He's just really good at what he does and is better at it than most and many can't accept that.

Keep in mind anyone that says the engine is only good up to X amount of boost really has no clue how boost works. It's not the pressure the air is at that counts. It's the amount of air. It is very possible to have more air entering the engine at 7 psi on one turbo than at 10 psi on another. What determines power level? Is it the amount of air going into the engine or the pressure it's at? Of course it's the airflow amount. Just stating a certain pressure says nothing of how much airflow there is. The example I use over and over again is that my air compressor tank in my garage is sitting at 120 psi right now. There is no airflow though. How much work can it do right now? None. Pressure is irrelevant without also knowing the flow. If my compressor tank had 5 psi in it but there was airflow coming out the nozzle, it is doing more work than the static 120 psi with no airflow. You need to know flow. This is why you can't use a generic turbo ecy tuning for any turbo combination out there. Flow rates at different pressures are not always them same. Hopefully this makes sense.

rex1081

what about the tec3? or the motec?