careful.......

YA go RG I don't agree with most of ya's ideas, but ya I ordered a new RX_8 last week and anything that is automatic to make it run true is good. HEAT and OIL is a rotary's life, piss and whine go the cheap route hope ya happy with a rebuild

I hope you didn't take that to be a shot at you. It wasn't. It was merely meant to say that products and threads like this are for the people that will benefit from it and who might actually be interested in it.

Apparently we need to be careful in the DIY area though. I don't want to get sued for infringing on someone's patent. It would be nice to know what we can say and do in the DIY area without violating that patent or theoretical patent.

I actually mentioned my idea for a simpler version of this device because I hoped Scott would build that instead. It's a better solution for his product. He's still welcome to do so as long as he doesn't patent it.

I am totally aware that RX8club is a buisness and you guys have the right to limit whatever discussions you want to, so this post was nice while it lasted.

it increases the air flow over the rads sooner...... i dont know why that you should have to run the fans at 74 mph.... but if you do the temp is much lower...

it is not a coolant flow issue it is an air flow issue...

my guess is it is a high pressue vs low pressure and the rad angle...

beers :beer:

funny..

a & p also..

beers :beer:

In addition to this kit...

Is there an available higher flowing water pump available then? Would an additional oil cooler help?

After hearing about this recall, I would like to as much within reason to make sure the damn thing dont blow up. Specially when it looks as though I will be moving from Oregon to New Mexico.

Very interested in this kit.

After i install my MS cooler, i hear Pssst.... sound from the Aircon, What a turbo in my oil cooler? O_o''

no water pump.

if you have an auto... yes a second oil cooler will help and mazda will do it for you....

some people with 6 speeds have added a third oil cooler.. it is on my to do list..

as to the sky is falling recall relax a bit and see where it leads you...

beers :beer:

Swoope where would the third oil cooler go?

have not figured that out yet....

something else has to go in first.... think it might be high in the nose... maybe with a dedicated duct for it....

beers :beer:

Another project for Scott :D:

no. :kiss:

something else.

beers :beer:

:scratchhe

Okay maybe an idea of where to put the extra oil cooler then ;)

my screen name @gmail.com

beers :beer:

do search on 3nd oil cooler, forget who but a member added a low profile one in the nose ahead of the a/c condesor.
In speaking with RX8 racing friends they advise AGAISNT a 3nd cooler as they say it lowers pressure too much and it takes too long for the oil to warm up(street application) they advise to replace the sorry stock coolers with an aftermarket version that fit in the original locations with a thermostant and to make sure any screens does not block air flow.
Stock ones do not flow air well. Try this test. (for those of you who can monitor temps)
look at oil temp--if 200F or so find a place that you can coast(engine out of gear and at idle) for about 1/8 of a mile or so at 40mph or so. You will see that the oil temp will drop 10 or more degrees. then do it (coast) but without letting the engine idle and the temps will not drop.Theres your proof about airflow.
Coolant flow is a problem. The impeller on the water pump sucks. Cavitaion is present. I'm weird but I still feel that an electric water pump in this car does offer some advantages--Mazda are you listening?
About the lower temp theromstat. I rather have have one that is fully open at the temps the fans come on rather than waiting until the temps are over 200F before it fully opens. Seems to me you have one system fighting another. They need to be in concert or would that cause to many spikes(peaks and valleys ) on coolant temp? I admit i am not the expert here. Has anyone ran WITHOUT a thermostat at all?
I appreciate Scott and his work--especially the plug and play on this one. The summitt one I mentioned in an earier entry would require more work to get going. If it sounded like I was flameing him I apologize. Keep up the good work Scott.
olddragger

Good point oldragger about the thermostat. Is that something that gets pulled if a person runs NPG + coolant or is it just the pressure cap?

One thing to remember about fans is that above a certain speed, they become a restriction to airflow when running. I know Scott compensates for this instead of just turning the electric on above a certain temp and letting it be. He does a lot of testing before he ever releases a product. The problem with just doing it that way is that in very hot climates the fans may run even at speed due to the fan turn on temp being hit. When this happens the fans turn into a restriction and the coolant temps go up. This compounds the problem and they never turn off and your temps go up. Keep in mind this is at high speeds such as freeway driving. Typically this isn't an issue but I did have this problem several years ago on my RX-7 when I went from the mechanical fan to an electric.

There are some aftermarket fans that take a different approach to cooling since they know above a certain speed the fans are restrictive. Some have small flaps in the fan shroud. When the fan is providing sufficient airflow, these flaps stay closed. When pressure builds up in front of the fan, these flaps open and bypass some of the air around it so it isn't a restriction anymore.

Even at highway speeds (and above), running both fans at full tilt reduces coolant temps, especially if you have an intercooler.
Air velocities through the rad never make it above what the fans can produce because of the placement of the A/C condenser, regardless of vehicle speed. The IC makes it even worse.

A third oil filter? Is it necessary? What should the oil temp be? I think I'm hitting ~260* (installed on RB's oil filter plate), even with the turbo.

if you are hitting 260F that is too high for most camps. You do not want consistant oil temps over 250F. You need to take a close look at how to cool your ride.
olddragger

Installed it on my N/A 8 last night. This morning I fired it up and it lagged a little on start up. I got flashing dsc light and traction control off light the whole way. But when I fired it up later, the light was gone, and it fired up fine. It seems to me that the car has a little more pull but that could just be me wanting it to have more pull. I noticed that on warm start ups it fires up much faster and the rpms dont shoot up as high but drop down to idle really quickly. Like in a second it will go up to 1.5 then down to 800 or so. The fan usually went off after 5 seconds or so. Every time except once when I turned it off did it go off after five seconds. In all a good mod with very simple installation.

Edit: My A/C DOES feel about 3 degrees colder actually.

This looks like a good mod to compliment the AP underdrive pulley . Anyone done that combo ?
More power from underdriving the AC but get back the cooling with this mod .

I don't understand the logic of under-drive pullies. Under-drive the A/C? Why would you race with the A/C on? Even if you did, under-driving it will reduce its effectiveness. That is stupid.
Under-driving the water pump is really stupid and adding air is not as good as moving more water through the rad.
UD are just a great way to waste money, especially in this application with no power steering pump (where the real gains are had on other apps).

Not to mention our AC is switched off automatically when you go into high rpms