yeah, I agree...this isnt about power...
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HA HA, but the Interceptor and this mod are great together!! my NA tells me so.... : :rock:
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how long has this been available? i'm defenitely getting one of these... it is way too hot for these rotaries here in miami...
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Originally Posted by Brettus
Is this mod only necessary in hotter climates ?
Never gets much over 30 deg C here & most days are below 25 deg C . Also : i've never seen my temp guauge deviate from just right of centre - what happens with you guys in hot climates ? I've seen 225* (thats 107 for you) on an aftermarket gauge, and the stock one hadn't budged. |
Originally Posted by dgrx8
how long has this been available? i'm defenitely getting one of these... it is way too hot for these rotaries here in miami...
I'll receive mine tomorrow. |
looks cool (no pun intended), how about a group buy on this?
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well i live in fl so this is a godsent mod. efficiency is a key factor as we all know. but no heat soak for a lose of power would be amazing. thanks much.
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:rofl: Capitalizing on the engine recall speculation. That's cool :cool:
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Here is the desert, we regularly see surface temps that excede 200°F and ambient air temps in the 110°F range.
Even at light cruise on the highway, it is not unusual to see engine coolant temps as high as 230°F. I know that I had watched my temp go from 207°F to 230°F with just a few seconds of boost. I switched to a bigger radiator and used water wetter as well. Though this slowed the rate of increase and hastened the cooling afterward, peak temps were still high. Then, I installed something that does what Scotts kit does and it made a huge difference. My running temps under the same sort of conditions can be as low as 190°F, though they typically stay around 204°F. Boosted runs still start to peak in the 230°F range and the big radiator does a lot to slow that down and bring the temps back in line, but the cruise temps are lower and that is where the damage is to these motors. That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather. |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Here is the desert, we regularly see surface temps that excede 200°F and ambient air temps in the 110°F range.
Even at light cruise on the highway, it is not unusual to see engine coolant temps as high as 230°F. I know that I had watched my temp go from 207°F to 230°F with just a few seconds of boost. I switched to a bigger radiator and used water wetter as well. Though this slowed the rate of increase and hastened the cooling afterward, peak temps were still high. Then, I installed something that does what Scotts kit does and it made a huge difference. My running temps under the same sort of conditions can be as low as 190°F, though they typically stay around 204°F. Boosted runs still start to peak in the 230°F range and the big radiator does a lot to slow that down and bring the temps back in line, but the cruise temps are lower and that is where the damage is to these motors. That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather. |
the RB flash has this same thing programmed into it??? If so then there isnt a point in getting this if you have the RB flash correct?
Sam |
"We lowered the ON temperatures for the electric cooling fans to improve engine cooling and avoid water temperature spikes. #1 fan now turns on at 87 degrees C (stock - 97 C) and #2 fan turns on at 90 degrees C (stock - 101 C)"
Right off the R&B web site. |
Originally Posted by HERO
the RB flash has this same thing programmed into it??? If so then there isnt a point in getting this if you have the RB flash correct?
Sam |
Originally Posted by chr1s
looks cool (no pun intended), how about a group buy on this?
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Summit racing has had one for a long time--universal type.
After talking to some race groups they all said that the impellar on the back of our water pump is one of the worst they had ever seen. Underdrive pulleys help a little with less cavitation but they modify the impellar also. Plus larger rads etc !! If you have screens on the radiator and the oil coolers they also contribute to heating. Not a lot but some. We shouldnt need fans at highway speed--but we do. Airflow needs to be better through this engine bay etc. MM did you just do a toggle switch? Yall do know we also have thermostats on the oil coolers? AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST WHERE THE HECK CAN YOU GET A 180F thermostat olddragger |
Got anything like this for my house? or hell, the state of texas? It's too damn hot down here! Someone turn off the global warming!
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damnit Scott, more money I have to spend :)
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This sounds interesting for track applications. I would love this for my track days in the middle of July. However, here in Boston, we are alreayd getting to the point where we might only see 2-3 more days close to 90 degrees.
Now my real worry. Sometimes it gets so cold up here that it can take up to 20 minutes for the car to get to operating temp and STAY there. I think this has limited applications, but you folks down in FL and TX and in the desert, pick one up! And Ajax, I spent 4 months in Texas right when I graduated from college. I have 1 vivid memory. I was riding home from a bar in Downtown Dallas @ 4am (sober friend was driving). I looked out the window @ one of those flashy bank signs that shows the temp. 97 degrees. I was like WTF!!! Its 4am!!!! 97 degrees!!!! |
Originally Posted by olddragger
MM did you just do a toggle switch?
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How would this mod effect someone in South Carolina where the coldest day of the year we see at about 20 at the lowest. (only for 20 minutes at the most in the early early morning) Would it make the heating up process take much longer?
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Originally Posted by t-run/8
How would this mod effect someone in South Carolina where the coldest day of the year we see at about 20 at the lowest. (only for 20 minutes at the most in the early early morning) Would it make the heating up process take much longer?
beers :beer: |
Haha, thanks again Swoope:) Ordering right now.
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Then, I installed something that does what Scotts kit does and it made a huge difference. My running temps under the same sort of conditions can be as low as 190°F, though they typically stay around 204°F. Boosted runs still start to peak in the 230°F range and the big radiator does a lot to slow that down and bring the temps back in line, but the cruise temps are lower and that is where the damage is to these motors.
That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather. |
i see 2 relays having 2 wires attached to them....are those normal relays that can easily be replace if the relay got blown? I mean are the wires easily detached and re-attached? Im asking in case we need to replace the relays.
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Here is the desert, we regularly see surface temps that excede 200°F and ambient air temps in the 110°F range.
Even at light cruise on the highway, it is not unusual to see engine coolant temps as high as 230°F. I know that I had watched my temp go from 207°F to 230°F with just a few seconds of boost. I switched to a bigger radiator and used water wetter as well. Though this slowed the rate of increase and hastened the cooling afterward, peak temps were still high. Then, I installed something that does what Scotts kit does and it made a huge difference. My running temps under the same sort of conditions can be as low as 190°F, though they typically stay around 204°F. Boosted runs still start to peak in the 230°F range and the big radiator does a lot to slow that down and bring the temps back in line, but the cruise temps are lower and that is where the damage is to these motors. That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather. |
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