K&N V.2 Typhoon intake with racing beat duct?
05-24-2007, 09:20 PM
#26
The K&N2 is super light, and is suppose to offer more top end(to go with my flash)
The stock airbox is 1 heavy ****. When you pop open the stock air box you;ll see hundreds (guess) of rows of plastic.(supports?) Those add alot of weight to the box. I'm guessing its to keep the box from sagging under all the heat.
The stock airbox is 1 heavy ****. When you pop open the stock air box you;ll see hundreds (guess) of rows of plastic.(supports?) Those add alot of weight to the box. I'm guessing its to keep the box from sagging under all the heat.
Yes Stock airbox is pretty heavy, if you compare them to K&N version 2 (cant speak for REVi box, I dont have it)
05-24-2007, 09:45 PM
#27
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Danger here it is K&N V2 on video.
Plug your ears and brace your self!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cFWDJlRoAo
Meh... its not that loud unless your on the throttle pretty heavy. It does scream in the 7k area.
Plug your ears and brace your self!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cFWDJlRoAo
Meh... its not that loud unless your on the throttle pretty heavy. It does scream in the 7k area.
05-25-2007, 10:40 AM
#33
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I had this setup... with my own little addition of duct tape and left over VFAD pieces... On a long drive my engine kept on dieing, and I began too really freak out... My friend (who had his Frontier stacked too the top with moving items), decided too stop at a local gas station too make sure everything was secure, and I decided too check why my engine kept on dieing...
Long story short, duct tape won't hold too long inside our intakes.... Once I removed the left over VFAD pieces(and garbles off duct tape) though I could tell at highway speeds that my 8 with the setup that this forum discusses could breath much easier...
And I know this also might sound a little absurd but I always used too get *at best* 60 miles too a quarter tank, now that I removed the VFAD pieces (that I thought would help too direct the air), my 8 somehow got 70 miles without getting close too consuming a quarter tank...
I'm wondering now if fabricating a plastic piece too cover the intake would be a good idea. My engine died after driving on the highway for a while... I know it won't happen again because no duct tape is in the way. But still heat is an issue
Long story short, duct tape won't hold too long inside our intakes.... Once I removed the left over VFAD pieces(and garbles off duct tape) though I could tell at highway speeds that my 8 with the setup that this forum discusses could breath much easier...
And I know this also might sound a little absurd but I always used too get *at best* 60 miles too a quarter tank, now that I removed the VFAD pieces (that I thought would help too direct the air), my 8 somehow got 70 miles without getting close too consuming a quarter tank...
I'm wondering now if fabricating a plastic piece too cover the intake would be a good idea. My engine died after driving on the highway for a while... I know it won't happen again because no duct tape is in the way. But still heat is an issue
Last edited by Keef; 05-25-2007 at 03:43 PM.
05-30-2007, 08:59 PM
#34
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I also figure this is the best setup for a stock NA. Alone the K&N ver. 2 promises some 9 hp, but with a ram duct at 40 miles it's alot different than dynoing when it's standing still.
Another issue I seem too be getting is that I normally try too stay in nuetral for a while and essentially coast in an attempt too save gas. I noticed that with this setup, coasting over 45-50 mph causes my engine too awkwardly sway from some 250 RPM too 850/900 RPM...
It makes me wonder if creating a separate throttle body (kinda what the VFAD did) would be a good idea in some situations... Any ideas? Or am I thread killer:?
Another issue I seem too be getting is that I normally try too stay in nuetral for a while and essentially coast in an attempt too save gas. I noticed that with this setup, coasting over 45-50 mph causes my engine too awkwardly sway from some 250 RPM too 850/900 RPM...
It makes me wonder if creating a separate throttle body (kinda what the VFAD did) would be a good idea in some situations... Any ideas? Or am I thread killer:?
05-30-2007, 10:31 PM
#35
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I also figure this is the best setup for a stock NA. Alone the K&N ver. 2 promises some 9 hp, but with a ram duct at 40 miles it's alot different than dynoing when it's standing still.
Another issue I seem too be getting is that I normally try too stay in nuetral for a while and essentially coast in an attempt too save gas. I noticed that with this setup, coasting over 45-50 mph causes my engine too awkwardly sway from some 250 RPM too 850/900 RPM...
It makes me wonder if creating a separate throttle body (kinda what the VFAD did) would be a good idea in some situations... Any ideas? Or am I thread killer:?
Another issue I seem too be getting is that I normally try too stay in nuetral for a while and essentially coast in an attempt too save gas. I noticed that with this setup, coasting over 45-50 mph causes my engine too awkwardly sway from some 250 RPM too 850/900 RPM...
It makes me wonder if creating a separate throttle body (kinda what the VFAD did) would be a good idea in some situations... Any ideas? Or am I thread killer:?
2) you (in most cases) burn more gas in neutral then when in gear.
05-30-2007, 11:29 PM
#36
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I'm very frustrated, just finished typing a long reply with test specs etc. and it disappeared when i clicked on submit... Ahhh.
Well the short version is as follows.
I've had teh Mazdaspeed CAI on for about 2 weeks and HATE it. Loss of low end power and huge gain in noise at full throttle with NO noticeable gain in power.
So I used a G-Tech and experimented with 3 different setups. Here is what I found. (Car full fuel, no junk in the trunk, just me = 1500kg at the weighscale.)
Just FYI, Full fuel car only no passenger or driver = 1400kg (accurate to +/- 10kg).
Stock Intake = 184HP
Stock intake with drop in K&N = 190HP
Mazdaspeed CAI = 185HP; but slower throttle response + loss of low end power.
Did some research and found some AEM test documents that show the K&N flows at least 2 to 3.5 times more air (depending on the amount of air flowed) than most of the other filters available and it DOES NOT let more dirt through; thats a myth.
The calculated RENESIS maximum engine air flow at WOT @ 8000rpm is just under 400CFM. Most stock filters and even the AEM DRYFLOW (Madzaspeed filter) cannot flow that much air without a significant pressure drop.
According to the graphs its almost a 5" water pressure drop for the DRYFLOW and only a 2.5" water drop for the K&N, with "NO DUST LEAKAGE" detected.
So in my opinion If you want to keep the good low end response and get decent power gains throughout the rev range, if you are still under warranty, use the stock intake with a K&N drop in panel filter #33-2284 (rated to 441CFM with no noticeable pressure drop). It will flow as much as your engine will ever demand in an unboosted setup.
Out of warranty, the Raceing Beat REVi with the ram air attachment.
This keeps the tuned intake horn for smooth air delivery and uses a free flowing short ram design and still maintains a big box for that accumulator effect to help low end throttle response. Rated for a 10HP increase at 8000rpm.
Honestly though, for an extra 4HP, is $350plus really worth it ?
I'd say the stock setup and a K&N panel filter is a pretty good bang for your buck. Save that extra $300 towards a free flowing exhaust system. Thats the other half of maximising your engine's breathing efficiency.
Hope this info was useful.
Well the short version is as follows.
I've had teh Mazdaspeed CAI on for about 2 weeks and HATE it. Loss of low end power and huge gain in noise at full throttle with NO noticeable gain in power.
So I used a G-Tech and experimented with 3 different setups. Here is what I found. (Car full fuel, no junk in the trunk, just me = 1500kg at the weighscale.)
Just FYI, Full fuel car only no passenger or driver = 1400kg (accurate to +/- 10kg).
Stock Intake = 184HP
Stock intake with drop in K&N = 190HP
Mazdaspeed CAI = 185HP; but slower throttle response + loss of low end power.
Did some research and found some AEM test documents that show the K&N flows at least 2 to 3.5 times more air (depending on the amount of air flowed) than most of the other filters available and it DOES NOT let more dirt through; thats a myth.
The calculated RENESIS maximum engine air flow at WOT @ 8000rpm is just under 400CFM. Most stock filters and even the AEM DRYFLOW (Madzaspeed filter) cannot flow that much air without a significant pressure drop.
According to the graphs its almost a 5" water pressure drop for the DRYFLOW and only a 2.5" water drop for the K&N, with "NO DUST LEAKAGE" detected.
So in my opinion If you want to keep the good low end response and get decent power gains throughout the rev range, if you are still under warranty, use the stock intake with a K&N drop in panel filter #33-2284 (rated to 441CFM with no noticeable pressure drop). It will flow as much as your engine will ever demand in an unboosted setup.
Out of warranty, the Raceing Beat REVi with the ram air attachment.
This keeps the tuned intake horn for smooth air delivery and uses a free flowing short ram design and still maintains a big box for that accumulator effect to help low end throttle response. Rated for a 10HP increase at 8000rpm.
Honestly though, for an extra 4HP, is $350plus really worth it ?
I'd say the stock setup and a K&N panel filter is a pretty good bang for your buck. Save that extra $300 towards a free flowing exhaust system. Thats the other half of maximising your engine's breathing efficiency.
Hope this info was useful.
05-31-2007, 01:57 AM
#38
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Oh yeah.. I received the V.2 in the mail today, I got out of work at 9 and was going to wait to put it in but like most of you I just couldn't wait. I had already let it soak in the oil for about 5 hours while I was on break from work, so it was dried out fairly well for the install.
The install is fairly straight forward and all, took a little longer than I expected but GODDAMN i forgot how good this thing sounds. It's honestly the best of both worlds, you don't need to worry about droning or getting a lot of attention while driving normally... but once you punch it the thing just screams. In a very sexy- throaty way. I like it MUCH more than the AEM i ditched...
The install is fairly straight forward and all, took a little longer than I expected but GODDAMN i forgot how good this thing sounds. It's honestly the best of both worlds, you don't need to worry about droning or getting a lot of attention while driving normally... but once you punch it the thing just screams. In a very sexy- throaty way. I like it MUCH more than the AEM i ditched...
05-31-2007, 03:51 AM
#39
I put a boost gauge on my sealed REVi, at 70mph+ there is no vacuum. I took it up to 90 ish and it seemed to hold at 0, might have been slightly positive or negative because its just a regular boost gauge that I was measuring it with.
BTW, I hooked into after the throttle body, so those are actual readings.
BTW, I hooked into after the throttle body, so those are actual readings.
the big deal at over 60 mph. is intake temp.... if you can monitor it well you know.. after 100mph.. well.
beers
05-31-2007, 06:55 AM
#40
Oh yeah.. I received the V.2 in the mail today, I got out of work at 9 and was going to wait to put it in but like most of you I just couldn't wait. I had already let it soak in the oil for about 5 hours while I was on break from work, so it was dried out fairly well for the install.
The install is fairly straight forward and all, took a little longer than I expected but GODDAMN i forgot how good this thing sounds. It's honestly the best of both worlds, you don't need to worry about droning or getting a lot of attention while driving normally... but once you punch it the thing just screams. In a very sexy- throaty way. I like it MUCH more than the AEM i ditched...
The install is fairly straight forward and all, took a little longer than I expected but GODDAMN i forgot how good this thing sounds. It's honestly the best of both worlds, you don't need to worry about droning or getting a lot of attention while driving normally... but once you punch it the thing just screams. In a very sexy- throaty way. I like it MUCH more than the AEM i ditched...
05-31-2007, 09:03 AM
#41
i'd like to know exactly what it is about the k&n v.2 w/ rb duct combo that causes such an erratic idle. i only started experiencing the idling issues and engine shut offs in traffic after installing the duct to my k&n. and btw, i don't have the mesh screen installed either, but all was good til i installed the duct. i used a piece of the vfad to seal the connection also... what gives? i think i'm gonna try sealing the whole thing w/ some plexi...
what do u guys think is going on???
what do u guys think is going on???
05-31-2007, 09:21 AM
#42
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i'd like to know exactly what it is about the k&n v.2 w/ rb duct combo that causes such an erratic idle. i only started experiencing the idling issues and engine shut offs in traffic after installing the duct to my k&n. and btw, i don't have the mesh screen installed either, but all was good til i installed the duct. i used a piece of the vfad to seal the connection also... what gives? i think i'm gonna try sealing the whole thing w/ some plexi...
what do u guys think is going on???
what do u guys think is going on???
05-31-2007, 04:04 PM
#43
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I think you missed my point. I know the G-Tech is not 100% accutrate, but the main point was no matter how good your intake piping is, if you have a restrictive filter you've just wasted a lot of $$$.
For the RENESIS motor, you need a filter tha can flow 400CFM with negligable pressure drop. So far the only 2 on teh market that can meet those specs are the APEXi filters and the K&N filters.
The Mazdaspeed CAI is not good because of the AEM filter they are using. Raceing beat uses a K&N filter, it just their box is better than the setup that K&N sells.
For the RENESIS motor, you need a filter tha can flow 400CFM with negligable pressure drop. So far the only 2 on teh market that can meet those specs are the APEXi filters and the K&N filters.
The Mazdaspeed CAI is not good because of the AEM filter they are using. Raceing beat uses a K&N filter, it just their box is better than the setup that K&N sells.
05-31-2007, 05:07 PM
#46
I think you missed my point. I know the G-Tech is not 100% accutrate, but the main point was no matter how good your intake piping is, if you have a restrictive filter you've just wasted a lot of $$$.
For the RENESIS motor, you need a filter tha can flow 400CFM with negligable pressure drop. So far the only 2 on teh market that can meet those specs are the APEXi filters and the K&N filters.
The Mazdaspeed CAI is not good because of the AEM filter they are using. Raceing beat uses a K&N filter, it just their box is better than the setup that K&N sells.
For the RENESIS motor, you need a filter tha can flow 400CFM with negligable pressure drop. So far the only 2 on teh market that can meet those specs are the APEXi filters and the K&N filters.
The Mazdaspeed CAI is not good because of the AEM filter they are using. Raceing beat uses a K&N filter, it just their box is better than the setup that K&N sells.
06-07-2007, 04:39 AM
#47
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Does anyone know if the K&N V.2 intake is street legal in California? Will you have a problem with smog, or is it CARB exempt. The racing beat revi is only legal for off road racing vehicle so you have to change it for smog testing. This isnt a problem with the K&N right?
06-07-2007, 02:51 PM
#48
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Does anyone know if the K&N V.2 intake is street legal in California? Will you have a problem with smog, or is it CARB exempt. The racing beat revi is only legal for off road racing vehicle so you have to change it for smog testing. This isnt a problem with the K&N right?
06-08-2007, 06:33 AM
#49
Does anyone know if the K&N V.2 intake is street legal in California? Will you have a problem with smog, or is it CARB exempt. The racing beat revi is only legal for off road racing vehicle so you have to change it for smog testing. This isnt a problem with the K&N right?
K&N Ver 2 like Qballz said, is ok from 04-06. not 07 *yet*
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