Where are you getting all this info? How are you measuring your IAT? Do you have a scanlyser?

I'm friends with a guy in Phoenix that has the K&N V2- his car dynoed the lowest of all RX-8's, and he has a midpipe! He was lower than the stock cars that showed up. And incase you don't want to believe the dyno, my car is faster than his on the street, too.

The K&N sucks hot air, period. Once again, the local member here has CONFIRMED this with an MSD Dash Hawk- his IAT is routinely around 60-70 degrees over ambient.

The highest top end? Please............

 

^^^^^

yea,

this thread should have been deleted long ago..


beers

 

he does have a scanalyser!! now the difference between the duct and the vdaf.. different story....

beers

 

it just gets annoying when some people parrot the same BS over and over again

 

Get some foam weather stripping from Home Depot. Lay it along the top edge of the K&N heat shield and along both sides, don't use it on the front edge. When the hood closes it seals against the hood liner and helps insulate the filter from the hot engine.

 

[QUOTE=chickenwafer;2034570]
I'm friends with a guy in Phoenix that has the K&N V2- his car dynoed the lowest of all RX-8's, and he has a midpipe!

I dynoed my car with stock cars and my numbers were lower too

 

I have the program, got the *latest* beta but it forced me to go back to 32-bit Windows (cuz 64bit just wont work with it)

Monitored everything and its about a few degress over stock.

Not sure about the original OP but I have the Ram air duct installed, and I moved my front plate location cuz its blocking airflow.

I have yet to go on a Dyno, dont have the time. maybe I should try some time. Which Dyno you guys use?

P.S : SCANLYser is not the only program out there.

 

I'm gonna agree that the K&N is a piece of crap...sorry flame me all you want but I live in the Valley in CA and outside temps here have been 89-104 all summer and the car ran like crap with the K&N...I couldn't even touch the cone filter after a drive...it was way too hot!

Now on a cold day or at night, the K&N was amazing...really opened up the top end.

I just think a short ram design is stupid for our cars because of our high underhood temps...my $0.02.

 

I have the vfad reinstalled, my car runs fine now, but that was after I aluminum foiled it, before that it was hot as hell and the car would be super super sluggish at higher rpms, but that might be from the pulley also, god knows how many **** i screwed up

 

I know the sCANalyser isn't the only program out there- I was using it as a reference point.

With your ram air duct sucking fresh air, it will help, but I still find it hard to believe your temps are only a "Few" degrees above ambient. That's where the stock intake sits at, and it is a much better design- ram air duct or not.

 

I just installed Vista to my laptop. and I need to buy a new usb to serial adapter cuz the old one broke (cheap piece of crap 5 bux oh well).

then I will monitor it again and post it up.

I wasnt here this past summer, but when it was 2006 there was a period that went over 100 degrees. but I just dont notice any power lost. Might have something to do with Synthetic oil

Every car has a hot underhood. My brother's Altima SE-R, bone stock and its still hot as hell, He has a Blitz Rev-i computer, but he is on a road trip so gotta wait till he is back to check out his intake temp (compare to mine) , Yeah I know apples to oranges, but just giving an idea.

No flaming here buddy, We're here to discuss, not to fight.

 

I just took my typhoon v.2 off and put the stock intake (with a paper filter in it) back on so that the dealer would address my rough idle issue (they said it could be the intake, or any intake with oiled filter dirtying the maf causing rough idle). I've had the k&n on for about a year, and I have the RB air duct installed too.

Impressions after 3 days:
Car is WAY more quite. Made it so that I can't even tell my Supercat is still there. High RPMs are really quite too. Totally changed the 'attitude' of the car. I miss the screaming at high rpm, almost seems anemic now. More rotary whine from the engine now, but I really miss how the k&n screams like mad at high rpm.

Low rpm seems a little bit stronger. High rpm seems a little weaker, don't know if its the big drop in volume playing tricks on me though.

Revs are noticeably slower in idle or when rev matching/heel, toe. Not sure it changed any under load, maybe a just slightly.

Of course the big change was in sound. Night and day difference, and it quited my Supercat down tremendously. I actually miss it.

I'd like to maybe modify the k&n to seal it in a partial or full enclosure for a little less sound and better heat shielding. Anyone tried this? Maybe I should just toss a k&n panel filter in there and call it a day?

 

In your opinion, do you think there would be any advantage in performance from fabricating a full or partial enclosure for the k&n?

 

I think someone did made a cover with clear plastic or something for it.

 

I think its in the DIY section

 

I dont have the print out anymore, or atleast I cant find it cause everything is boxed up (tring to move), but according to the mustang dyno I used I put down 211rwhp. It was like 86deg at the time. With a K&N v2 Rb flash and MS dual can, and a little cat fixing.

Like I have said all over the place, yes it sucks hot air when you are sitting at a light or in traffic, but does that really matter? Do you need all of your top end HP to go from light to light in traffic? At the track just pop the hood when you are done and let the heat float away. With a Ram on it, you will get plenty of cold air when you move.
Might as well say greddy kit, pettit,afsc, blitz, knightsport, Es, all suck to cause they more or less get the air from the same spot. They have coolers but those dont do much sitting still also unless you add fans to them.

 

Ha.

 

Are you telling me you never had any experience with stock setup on high RPM?

Stock box is almost always the most quiet one. No matter which car.

 

If you box it up the K&N would be really good. Enclose the whole thing, isolate the filter from heat, and put a ram air duct on it, and you have a really good intake. But in the end it may end up costing you more than the Racing Beat REVi, which does the same thing, but I believe the filter is better on the K&N than the REVi (yes, I know the REVi uses a K&N filter element, but the "straight-thru" design on the K&N intake is better IMO).

 

man this got me away from the K&N.. maybe i should go with the revi??

 

My V.1 Read 200 Degrees at MAF. I would assume all SR intakes will have a higher than normal. Went with MS CAI. Could not be happier.

 

I'm keeping my stock box and adding the RB ram air duct.

 

Air doesn't flow through filters like that. "Straight through" designs are all about marketing. Total filter area is what matters most.