chuuuma

i recently baught one of the hyper rev magazine for rx8. since it was in japnese i had one of my japnese friend translate some parts for me. so aparently on the magazine it's saying that even with the electric fan controller. daily driving it works just fine. but if u go to the track or autocrossing especially track the fan controller doesnt do nething. one of the reason is because there's the huge airbox and the battery rite behind the radiator. with the fan controller it will cool down the temperature inside the engine bay but not the radiator. so the oil temp is still very high well over 120. the best is to keep it under 100.

combos to lower 8s oil temp is to get an aftermarket intake which get rid of the airbox, and relocate the battery to the back. and get an aftermarket radiator koyo or pwr whichever is fine. and if u have the money you can also upgrade your oil cooler. to keep track of the temperature of course need a oil temp guage.

so im just wondering because all that will cost a good amount of money and from wut i know hyper rev has pretty reliable informations on them. has anyone heard of this? or anyone tried it? any other idea?

rotarygod

When it comes to airflow it is important to have good flow both to and away from the radiator. I do consider the RX-8 and 3rd gen RX-7 engine bay layouts to both be a mistake when it comes to proper cooling. Now it's not to hard for it to still do it's job on a street car so for what it is intended to do, it's fine. I could see how for track use you may want to improve it.

I do not like to see oil and coolant temps very far apart. I know it has been said that the oil and coolant in the RX-8 stay consistently about 20 degrees apart from each other but for me that is about 15 degrees too far apart. Optimally they should be the same. Oil entering the engine should never be allowed to get over 210*F. Yes it will be hotter coming out of it so it's important to have an oil temp sensor after the oil cooler on a track car.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I dont have temp problems on the track. Now I am not racing but hpde (no racing One thing that people never talk about is this. A driver can overdrive any engine-- therefore it will run hot (coolant and oil) and /or blow up. Ours is the same.
My highest temps on an ambient 100F day at Roebling Road was coolant approx 210-220F and oil 220-230F. Thats coming from the sender unit out of the car not going in as RG says.(RG my car consistantly only has a 10degree differance in coolant/oil temps --street and track). Now let me explain something. I could have easily allowed the temps to go higher by running high rpm at partial throttle through some areas of the track, but a good driver(i am in training--not good--yet) will do things that makes that unnecessary.
1st--get your car sorted properly--get the right gear ratio for the track/tracks you are running. I do mine with the tire circum. That way you can stay in the proper power band.
Use the proper gear: you can be just as fast in 4th gear at &K than 3nd at 8K. It makes a cumulative differance. Besides you cannot go faster without shifting gears.
Then set the car up correctly for the track.
1-use a 65/35 blend distilled water/coolant mixture. I dont use water wetter etc--but for the track it would be ok. I wouldnt recommend it for everyday (dont mean to start a discussion here)
2- get an underdrive pulley--our water pump cavatates at 6K and above! An underdrive helps a little with that.
3- run synthetic oil--i have found it runs approx 10 degree cooler for me. I run RP 5/30. No heavier--our oil passageways are small--dont get too thick--the pro boys drill those out to run the 20w/50 (I think)
4- take the oil cooling screens and the a/c screens OFF. They do block air flow some and air flow is critical to the 8.
I am satishfied with my temps at present. Heck during the summer in Georgia I have to watch my temps on the street more than i have too on the track. Thats a differant animal.
rotor on
Olddragger

staticlag

or you could just install a third oil cooler.

chuuuma

so pretty much what they say on the magazine is not necessary?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Believe me --I have always been one to watch this cars temps. 1st thing--get real gauges. Those mods for track is not needed UNLESS you are going pro. If you just do schools(like 95% of us do) see what youre gauges tell you then start thinking about you need to do. Remember our thermostats dont even fully open until 203F --Then wide open is only about 1/3 of an inch. I dont like our thermostat--but presently no aftermarket is available. I would love a 180 degree one.Thinking about drilling one this summer. presently in Ga with ambiets at 50 or so, my oil and water are running 170F--high of 180's on the street. No tracking in the winter.
olddragger

ElDorifto

hey i got a hyper rev mag too! lol

got it from more-japan.com!

$25 + $5 shipping! i saw it at a japanese book store a couple days ago..$35. lol.

<~~~thats flippin sweet. lol

mikeschaefer

don't japanese spec 8s come with only 1 oil cooler? or is that just aussie?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

mine is jap spec & only has 1 oil cooler ....

astro

Oz spec has one oil cooler.
We are also on 5W30 engine oil.

I've had the car on track when the temperature was above 31 degrees C and the car did not have an issue with power loss. I gave up before the car, I got too hot .

"If it ain't broke - don't fix it!" is my attitude. If it's still performing well, I'll leave it alone.