when do you guys shift? do you guys wait till the needle is in the red part of the redline.. 9k-9200?? or do yo0u shift at the 8500 mark?

 

have found the stock guage is about 500rpms too high . If you shift at 9000 it will be more like 8500 - don't think it is worth nudging the rev limiter as that just slows you down.

 

so is that when you shift.? about the 9k mark so its pretty much the 8500?

 

When I shift at about 9k the scan tool records 8500-8600 - my shift beeper does not work so that makes things more difficult.
Would be a good idea for you to take it to the rev limiter and see where you are on the guage - then you know to shift say 300 - 400 rpm below that. The closer to the limiter you get the better IMO.
You don't want that carbon buildup do you

 

The light flywheel and the ems is where most of the gains were. The pullies and intake didn't do much.

 

For outright acceleration when you are only operating in the 6000-9000 range , I don't think the pulley has much effect . However it definately improves mid range power for daily driving - It is very noticable.
The duct ? Hard to know - certainly can't say with any certainty.

 

+1

Fantasy

The butt is not a dyno.
Concensus is not science.

 

will be dynoing the car this week & will do a pull without the ems doing its thing - If it does not show a noticable increase from my base dyno at about 4k revs I'll eat my words.
The light flywheel should not be doing anything at that rpm so that only leaves the pulley .

If you were in this country MM I would put a few beers on it !

 

International shipping.

 

You show an actual gain (ie - more than is attributable to statistical error) and I'll come there!
You will need to pull the EMS completely and match your previous dyno runs exactly for this to even matter.

 

I won't be pulling the ems out - just setting all the maps to zero - same thing.
Unfortunately my base run was done pre flywheel & I don't have a post flywheel only dyno so I guess there is no way to satisfy you on this short of pulling the pulley off & testing the stock one -which i'm not about to do just to prove something I already know.

 

Something you believe. Imagination is powerful.
Leaving the flywheel on won't affect the dyno too badly - especially in the range where a UD pulley works which is after the torque/HP crossover point.
BTW - you not doing this to prove anything to me. I already have dyno data. This is purely for your own (dis)satisfaction.

 

Having a similar set-up (without the ems) I shoot for 8500 rpm shift point.

I tend to go over that lots of times, as the revs build quickly in 1st & 2nd gear.

 

What you are saying is that there are about 30 people on this forum who have great imaginations when it comes to this mod . I suppose you would think that if you had some experience with this exact pulley .
Is your dyno of this exact pulley ?
If so how about posting it here .............

 

I can tell you mine is alot faster with my Mods.

 

i want a turbo..

 

MM - no response ??

BTW - I really like Belgian beer

 

Sorry, I missed it. I like the white Belgian stuff, too.

I have a fair amount of experience with pullies. Not this particular one on this particular car.
Doesn't matter - unless it is made out of unobtanium and is rocket powered.

I have a dyno around here somewhere of an FD with no accesory belts at all. No PS, no WP, no AC and no alt.
I posted only 17 peak HP more than with the belts and all of that was the PS.

Sorry.
You (and your evil minion of 30) can go on believing what ever makes you happy.
If I knew for even a second that a pulley would actually release just 5 HP, I'd install a set. After all, it is free HP and pullies are cheap.
But it doesn't and I won't.

 

Interesting but I would like to see his after 0-60 times and the dyno results. Lets see the results and not speculation of what everyone believes they are getting.

 

Raptor - I don't think the pulley will make a lot of difference to 0-60 (or 1/4mile) times as I think the real benefits of the pulley are below the 6000+ rpm you see when doing these .

Lets say we get 5hp all the way to the redline (just pulled that figure out of thin air) - the amount of added torque at low rpm as a percentage of the total torque available is significant and detectable by most butt dynos especially in the lower gears.
However at high rpm your 5hp is not doing much and not even the most finely calibrated butt dyno on the planet will tell the difference . It may help times a little but probably not enough to measure accurately.

The dyno should tell the story so I should stop rabbiting on.

BTW - did a gtech 1/4 mile yesterday - 14.6s @ 99.2 mph . That is my first time ever so with a better launch ...........

 

LOL Me & my evil minion are getting thirsty .

 

^^ That is all totally wrong.

Even if a pulley gave you a gain, it would do it at high RPM where the drag is the greatest.
Also, HP is a multiple of torque, so if freeing up torque was detectable down low, it would be incrementally more so at higher RPMs.

 

Again I dissagree

At higher rpm you have the following happening:
waterpump cavitating (think it was you who mentioned this)and pumping efficiency decreases - therefore hp increase is not linear
alternator - not sure on this one but I think alternators have a certain speed at which they don't produce additional current therefore hp increase is not linear.
A/C - I heard somewhere that it the A/C clutch disconnects at high RPM -again I think it was you who mentioned that .

Conclusion - my argument stands

Edit : If I was designing a high reving motor I would want all the accesories to be at optimum efficiency at around cruising speed then try and minimise the additional power consumed after that point - I am pretty sure this is what Mazda has done & that is why me & the minions feel a benefit from this pulley low-mid range rpm.

 

Again a lot of speculation with out facts. If the pulley is freeing up HP it will appear in the performance specs, dyno and 0-60 times.

The pulley issue will probably be a thing of the past in a couple of years. I read an article about using a CVT gearing to produce a constant speed for all accessories. This has several advantages. First all devices can run at optimum rpms which means less energy lose. Two they can be designed smaller and lighter because they do not have to stand up to higher rpms. There was another which slips my mind at the moment but you get the idea.

 

My dynotune was postponed till Thurs & was feeling a bit bored so went out & did a couple of 1/4 mile runs on the g-tech.

Tried different launch techniques but the only way i'm having any luck with is feathering the clutch. If I try to get wheelspin I just bog down .

anyway my et is getting a little better but my trap speed - considering stock 8s dont see much above 95mph ..............................

14.46s @ 101.7 mph