TeamRX8

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speeddemon32

oh here we go again....

Razz, did you even bother reading anything I wrote, or are you just assuming I am claiming that Amsoil just gave me the 20 h.p. differance you see in my dyno sheets? show me where I said that.......

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

speeddemon32
to check for condensation in the oil fill pipe--what i do/did--was take some type of soft flexable wire (the kind that doesnt break easily!), take off the oil cap , thread the wire down as far as it can go(the oil filler pipe has a couple of bends)--do a "soft" type of rotor rooter movement and then with draw the wire. If you have a obvious amount of yellow looking gunk on the wire it is POSSIBLE that the filler pipe has a large amount of this stuff in it. There is a thread on the forum about this and one members experience. He got over a cup and 1/2 of gunk out of his! He said he wasnt aware of how much this gunk affected his intake valves until he cleaned this pipe and then drove his car. Look at the relationship of this pipe and the valves in the manuel. Not saying for sure this is what is happening but it does bear checking out. On your initial run to steadly lose power after 7k means it is either fuel/air or ignition---duhhhh--right? To have wide varience in dynoing indicates a problem--you just have to simply do the diagnostic work. The gunk test is easy and quick to do. It may not be all the problem, but it could be one.
Team is right in that the rb flash will eliminate/drastically reduce these dips --but it wont fix any other problem that is going on. I would suggest getting the car sorted before you get any reflash.
Olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

oh by the way what type of unit did the dyno shop us to monitor the a/f ratios?
OD

speeddemon32

OD... I agree, for something as easy as that test, I would be dumb not to at least look at it. I will do this soon.

also I have been wanting the RB flash. I was hoping to do it within the next month. but I agree now that I should get the problem fixed before trying to get the computer flashed. like racing beat said.... it does not fix any problems.

the oddest thing to me is how 3 out of the 10 runs were "clean" (which I guess sticky intake ports would do it, which I guess so would an addition of fuel or a break up in ignition.)

I will let you know what I find in the oil fill tube.

hey what do you think the dealer would say if I brought the car in and said that it is loading up at 7,800? I think they might have a problem with me puting the car on a dyno????

speeddemon32

it was a probe they shuved up my cars butt are you asking the model of it?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

lol-- no --just wondering how consistant/accuate the reading were. Did they offer the car a cigarette afterward
OD

speeddemon32

no but I needed one.

so many possibilities.... think it could be the O2 sensor if the intake vales do not show any problems?

maybe it's the short throw??? he he he.

kwescott

I know a guy who slings parts for Harry, maybe I can contact him to see if he has any Motec exhausts, or stand alone Engine Management Systems.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Edit to above : I think team is correct in saying that the ECU "CAN" make radical changes . However I don't believe it makes that kind of change if everything else is normal .
When your reset the ECU you will get the std map which will be a % above or below the learned trim . This % is not normally a high number - (7.2 % is the highest I've ever seen) & it is constant in open loop .

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

there are dips in every single run... all the valves opened the same on every run, none of them were sticking

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

may not be sticking--may be slow opening.?? just deducting? Hows the gunk?
Olddragger

Razz1

I was kidding.

But for they fun of it ....... it sure would be nice to get one more dyno to see if it goes up again or down.

speeddemon32

sorry Razz.... just been getting a lot of crap about these runs..... as if I had anything to do with them. :/

speeddemon32

OD... test show absolutly nothing on the coat hanger.....

swoope

iTrader: (5)

yea!

beers

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I didn't see you getting any crap about the runs themselves

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

Speeddemon did you check you intake for standing oil?

The MAF can be affected if it gets the oily residue buildup and give a altered reading.

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

If you really want to know whats going on I'd get a Canscan and the extended data software and log the absolute throttle position, MAf, ignition advance, afr, fuel pulse width, fuel trims, coolant temp, and knock retard.

Umbra

I don't think it's really a valid enough test to say much of anything.

speeddemon32

4 years, I did not look at the MAF, but when I had the K&N off the other day the TB looked fine to me. nice and clean. I will pull the MAF meter out soon and make sure it is dry to. but my guess is that it will be fine..... good call though.

rotor, not a bad Idea. I have nover done anything liek that though. any idea how much that cost?

umbra, ..... what is not much of a test to say anything? the 10 dyno pulls? are you saying you dont think there is anything wrong based on the dyno sheets?... I think you are alone on that one.

Rhythmic

Isn't the "gunk" on the dipstick normal? Is this a different "gunk" than what might be in the filler tube?

The gunk on the dipstick is moisture...right?

kwescott

Speed, you've done the throttle body mod, along with the oil catch-can, right? If so, why would there be oil on the MAF or deposits on the throttle body?

speeddemon32

well the tb mod you are talking about would have no effect on anything.

and the oil catch I do not have... that is cesar.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Hi again Speeddemon .
These runs of yours are very interesting .
I'm pretty sure that if I graphed all the pulls we did on my car a few months back we would get something similar showing up . At the time the dyno operator had no explanation for the wide variations we were seeing & like I said before we decided to take only back to back identical runs as being accurate.
It seemed to me that every time we did this the first run was inaccurate then two subsequent runs would be almost identical. We probably did 30 pulls & once we established this pattern we pretty much ignored the first run each time .

The fact that you are not noticing anything wrong "on the road" makes me wonder if this is more to do with the dyno & your car is just fine .
The AFR thing is a puzzle though - we did not keep any of the dud runs so don't know if we were seeing AFR differences like you are.