etzilon

Like this?

RX8Club.com - View Single Post - MAF screen material. What size mesh?

ryccoh

At high vehicle and engine speeds I see it as beneficial, that's where I like to be at anywayz, who cares about partial throttle and lower RPMs.

I like the RB unit but it leaves my radiator with significantly less air and at that it leaves it no choice but to bottomfeed from the asphalt superheated air, since that is the daily condition here living on the brink of the equator, so idk about actually getting it.

What a dilemna I cant find an intake setup I really like, well except this one
Maz-Sport Cusco: Race Performance
but that's gotta be unbearingly loud

Maybe I'll just wear earplugs and expose everyone else to that sonic madness

ryccoh

Interesting... If only I could pop open that pandora's box

Beodude

iTrader: (3)

I've been logging my temps, and I know how Guam is... You should be fine. It gets hotter here in Louisiana than there (not by much, but a little), and I stay around 190-200 driving around town and cruising on the highway. Temps did go up about 5 or 10 degrees after putting it on, but still well below high temps.

ryccoh

That's with regular driving though right? What about when you put the pedal to the metal during a hot day?

I relocated my battery, according to Jim Mederer from Racing Beat that lowers your temps by 5-10 degrees so maybe now I can afford to lose some cooling ability.
Although before doing so with moderate driving on a hot day my fans would always come on when I shut off the car and I'm not sure but I think that doesn't happen until 205 degrees or so.

When you got that intake did you notice the extra power? I know some ppl say you can't feel a few additional horses, but I felt a significant difference from my catless midpipe.

fyrstormer

I've heard that cowl induction is more effective than ram-air for normal-speed driving. Air piles up against the windshield while the car is moving, and while most of the air goes up over the roof or around the A-pillars, it still traps a cell of high-pressure air between the back of the hood and the bottom of the windshield. Pulling air from this high-pressure cell is more effective than pulling air from other locations.

lastphaseofthis

i'm more about the Trial and Error, and the fun of building. so we're gonna try to make the most effective ram air, and rotarygod's post of helped me with a few key elements.

but basiclly a large 6 to 9 inch x 2 area for intake, gradually stepped down to 4( x 2) inch in the front of the "prototype car" where the intake travels at 4 inch x 2 the LENGTH of the vehicle...
Where it finally comes to an airbox (pressure chamber) that will feed the engine. the 4 inch tubes being soo long should provide the volcity in order to get some real pressure in the box. however, this is a garage project that probably won't be even started until next summer. rotary jetski is first.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

In the interest of fun testing stuff, certainly have at it. Might want to take a look at these two articles about ram air's most common consumer implementation: On motorcycles. Some food for thought...

(Rest of my quote was chopped out since it was responding to someone asking about an e-bay intake, which certainly does not produce a benefit)

Beodude

iTrader: (3)

I don't really stomp on it for a long time. Plenty of 1-3 pulls, and my temps never got over 220, this is with ambient around 95, 90% humidity. As far as power, it really only pulls better on the highway. Otherwise it's about the same. It gets rid of heat soak really fast now though.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Dam just get a turbo...

Sidenote: If you see coolant temps at 200+ while cruising you got major issues with your cooling system.

Leonheart

Glad I saw this thread saved me money too!!! I'll just eventually down the road get a turbo possibly

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

I see you are from Austin!

I see 8's around here all over the place but they all appear to be stock.

I have a Winning blue that is never clean and has a big *** intercooler up front.

ryccoh

I wonder if any one of the guys that are running single oil coolers have fashioned ram air intakes out of that nice scoop that once led to a former oil cooler.

Beodude

iTrader: (3)

I think it would be pretty tough to route the ducting, but maybe I'm not thinking it right.

b2fast007

has anyone tried a ram air setup that replaces the fake front grill. If that was funneled into a tube you would see real boost. at a more reasonable speed it all comes down to square inches a 6 inch opening is not efficient but a 80 square inch opening feeding into a 3 inch inlet would generate real useable boost pressure and the fake grill is located center front to maximize air stream flow. hayabusa inlet was too small to meet max air volume requirements at full throttle

bse50

The added drag would slow you down more than the (eventually, maybe, who knows) added pressure would make you faster.
You see LMP prototypes with bellmouth intakes, not "ram" scoops for a reason.

Spin9k

Just for a point of reference for you, the RB duct is just below the fake grill, and has an approx 60 sq in of intake area. It then does a smooth flow bend and feeds into the RB airbox thru an oblong tube larger than stock (limited by sheet metal hole size) into the (larger than stock) RB box, before joining with the intake tube to the engine. So, in essense, yes, someone has tried that.

b2fast007

read the lmp rules an regulations ad you will discover the rules limit size and placement of all the cooling and intake ducts. anyone have some science or practical experience instead of personal opinion to add to the theory presented. No large inlet ram systems can be found online to compare to inlets all seem to be 1.5 to 2 times intake diameter im looking for 4 to 5 times inlet diameter to intake diameter. seems that would be more efficient at lower speeds

bse50

The restrictor plates aren't applied to the air scoop's diameter.


There's a point where a venturi becomes a restriction and there are various formulae for the various variables involved to determine the angle, intake to pipe diameter ratio, angle and length.
It's not as easy as you make it seem... and the best that you could hope for is around 0.2psi anyway.

b2fast007

just wondering how removing a fake grill is going to greatly increase to drag of the car putting a large scoop on the hood i can see but your comment makes no logical sense. the ram would be located behind the bumper so even if the air stalled on entry the flow around the bumper would be the same since we are talking about solid panel anyway that air does not flow thru in the first place

bse50

Without the fake grille you actually face more drag. Think of the recession you create as a parachute. It would have more volume.
The best option is to maximize speed. You can do this by chopping an AEM intake and creating a sort of box behind it. That creates a positive pressure zone and the vacuum\suction effect of the intake tract benefits from that.
The result is less than 2g\sec at 120km\h though. Negligible.

b2fast007

 4-stroke piston engines (cost reduction – adaption to road-going use)
 Free cubic capacity for manufacturers, high turbo pressure (4 bars) (efficiency, adaption to roadgoing use)
 Cubic capacity limited to 5.5 litres for private teams (cost reduction)
 Power of the cars controlled by a homologated fuel flow metre (efficiency)
 Free air inlets: air restrictors cancelled, variable admission systems allowed
(technological opportunities, efficiency, adaption to road-going use)
 Fuel injection pressure free (technological opportunities, efficiency, adaption to
road-going use)
 Fuel: evolution to 2
nd
generation E20 bio fuels (currently E10)
(sustainable development)
 Fuel: diesel or petrol (cost saving – adaption to road-going use)
 Possibility of an opening in the medium or long term to other sources of energy that have reached
maturity (hydrogen, 100% electric) (technological opportunity)
 Very costly exotic materials and systems banned (electromagnetic valves) (cost reduction).
Energy recovery systems
 Five categories of energy defined from 0 to 8MJ per lap of the Le Mans circuit (technological
opportunity)
 Systems are free provided they can be measured (technological opportunity)
 Number of systems limited to two per car (cost savings)
 Systems homologated on a seasonal basis. No evolution or category change will be accepted during

b2fast007

Bodywork
 Two-seater closed cars only (tradition, efficiency and safety)
 Weight: 850 kg hybrids – 830 kg non-hybrids (efficiency and cost saving)
 Total width 1 900 mm compared to 2 000 m currently (efficiency)
 Improvement of visibility. The driver will now sit higher in the car and further forward and the
height of the front wings will be decreased (safety).
 Front aerodynamic device adjustable for simplified aero balance (cost saving).
 Evolution of the lower front end of the car to improve efficiency without compromising stability in
case of loss of control (efficiency and safety)
 New positions of the holes in the wings. This is aimed at making the cars more efficient and less
unstable laterally while reducing drag (efficiency).

bse50

What's your point?

b2fast007

the parachute is a good visual. so here is another if you view the ram as a funnel, I know a big stretch but picture it encompassing the whole fake grill area when you pour more water into it than can go out of the back it fills to the top and spills over the lip to the sides thus creating the same flat surface as the fake panel you removed. fairly basic fluid dynamics same holds true for the cells in a parachute that inflate the foil, once filled they lose drag and must stay moving forward or the chute folds and you plummet to the ground