ok boys and girls lets play a game here....see if you can deduce the parts creating a boost leak from the pictures provided......im not throwing any one under the bus but came across some pictures and thought i might share some pics that were provided to me with a story.....if the vendor or owner wanna jump in and explain more than great....if not lets see if we can help figure this out

 

The throttle body is a coolant line, prolly rerouted to the turbo; no biggie.

The other one looks like jet air??? Hard to tell fer sure.

 

by no biggie you mean will not be detrimental at all?.....the owner seemed concerned and im far from a turbo expert so i was hoping to help out

 

right - the line normally runs throuh the throttle to help warm it up and prevent freezing (though even the folks up north take it out).

Those lines are perfect for running the coolant lines to the turbo - I just capped mine.

The jet-air one; if that is what it is = big deal.

 

what do you mean by big deal exactly?

 

The jet air line has a lot of flow to it; so if there is a vacuum leak from that then that is a big leak - not to mention if it is not connected at all to the intake; I cannot imagine how the car would run - but it would not be good.

 

Sure Chris, I'll help.

Kane is right about the throttle body lines being bypassed and the other tube had a small K&N breather on it. There are check valves in place to prevent a boost leak. Regardless, I spoke with Roland regarding this on Monday.

If you have any questions regarding F/I, turbo's or their related components please don't hesitate to give me a call Chris.

Thanks, Scott

 

The hose ends on the Throttle body are coolant lines, they hold no engine vacuum/pressure.

The one with the hose barb on it looks to be the Jet Air hose. It's a hose that runs to a hard line along side the LIM/UIM junction and to the primary intake ports to help with fuel atomization.

If left untapped (open) it will provide a big vacuum leak at idle and when in boost a pretty large boost leak.

You need to drill and tap a hole in the pipe that enters the throttle body and put a 3/8" hose barb on it so the pipe sees boost.

The cheap way to do it is to put an inline check valve on this hose, then hook it up to the intake pre-turbo.

 

Looks like from Scott - it had a filter on it and a check valve.

So maybe the filter was not secured properly. I would still plum it into the intake track if it were my car.

 

shouldn't there be a small filter on that line?

there's a 1 way check valve on it so it shouldn't leak

unless ofcourse some *** hat installed it backwards

 

Even with a filter it's sucking unmetered/unmeasured air, so it would cause issues when the motor is in vacuum, unless the car is using the Int-X (presumably so) but it would still cause a slight drop in manifold vacuum. I don't see why it isn't plumbed into the boost pipe to eliminate the check valve.

 

^ I think the T fitting was supposed to be for a vaccuum connection of somesort............but then any vaccuum connection should not have a check valve there

so yea, it's baffling

 

What T-fitting?

The Jet Air isn't purely a vacuum hose, Taj.

 

if that is not a T-fitting, and it's not a vaccuum hose, then it's a copper crush washer

you choose

 

I don't see a "T" fitting in any of those pictures, perhaps I'm missing it. A T fitting is a 3-way fitting, and looks like a "T".

I already explained this in a post made in this thread already, but the jet air runs to a hardline alongside the UIM/LIM junction, and then to the primary intake ports to help with fuel atomization.

In an NA motor, it's a pure vacuum source, since the motor will never see positive manifold pressures.

Once the motor is boosted, however, since the Jet air is connected to the LIM, it will see boost. Unless the hose is hooked up to a pipe that also sees boost (post turbo) or has a check valve to keep it closed under boost, the hose will leak boost.

 

..........CW, 2nd picture, pls tell me that brass T fitting is not a T fitting....please

 

Der. My bad. I didn't see the other end.

Now the question is where does the other end run to? The pictures are less than revealing.

 

The part that is missing is a 3/8 K&N crankcase breather.

The whole point is, when the vendor was called, he insisted that the part was on the car at delivery. Since the car was driven less than a mile since it's been picked up, how does a part like that fall off so quickly?

Another issue is the blantant lack of customer service this vendor has displayed. During the initial phone call, four days after receiving an email, and one within receiving a pm, the vendor stated that this part could be purchased at any speed shop. Well, that's just all fine and dandy. I can go buy a missing part for my turbo, the one I just paid for in full, the turbo I waited well over a year to be installed. WTF? In the name of good customer service, the vendor should have said "I'll pop that part in the mail to you, you should have it in a few days."

I don't give a rat's *** if the part costs a dollar or a hundred dollars, said vendor should have ponied up.

It wasn't until after I made an issue out of the complete lack of satisfactory customer service did the vendor state that he "intended" to reimburse us for the part.

 

did you expect something different from said vendor? ?

 

as I have told Chris already about it

there was supposed to be a filter on that, and please check whether that 1 way check valve is in the right way, that could explain your shitty idle and stuff

and get it tuned before your turbo become smush

oh wait, Scott tuned it right?

 

wow, these kind of stories are starting to become far too common..... something needs to be addressed, but WITH OUR support, otherwise this is becoming a downward spiral

 

im sorry this is happening to you guys.....but im glad its getting out in the open

 

It shouldn't have a breather filter on it anyways; it should be hooked up to a compression pipe and get ride of that check valve. An unmetered air leak can cause a bad idle.

 

so in other words its still not the "right" way to do it and the part that looks like a t-fitting is missing something is bad as well?.....