So what would you make an intake out of RG. Keep cost vs. benefit in mind.

 

I dunno about that. A local Mazda club had a dyno day and a car showed up with Esplier exhaust, B&B midpipe, K&N intake and laid down 168 (rounded) rwhp. I had just my Umnitza intake and did 179 rwhp, an 11-hp diff and I don't have exhaust. It varies from car to car, true, but I think my Umnitza is better than the K&N (I also realize you didn't say anything about the Umnitza, just pointing out)

Dave

 

I always find the "that's not expensive enough for my $xx,xxx car" attitude kind of funny. Guess that keeps the aftermarket in business... More money than sense if you ask me. If it works and costs $10, spend $50 making it look decent (if you actually care what your engine compartment looks like). $60 vs $300+, hmm...

I'll admit, that sometimes you get what you pay for, but that adage only holds true to a point. After that your just being bamboozled if not plain ripped off.

 

And 110 in 1974 with my RX-4 in stock mode of course.

 

from my perspective the reason a great horsepower gain from an intake couldn't be possible on our 8's is because the engine is only 1.3L compared too any forced induction vehicle or big v8 the hp gains would be appropriate too see through the whole RPM range. But since our engines are so small how could you expect a horsepower increase when Mazda all ready did a good engineering job with the cheap mass produced items they made/chose...

My ideas still stand with the K&N, our gains should only be expected at high RPM's and then tuned with a piggyback...

is this just a rotary thing, or where the gains just as small on the old RX7's than is our 8's?

 

I have the Revi intake and Rev8 exhaust from RB. I do admit that HP to $ ration is a joke. I think anything making the kind of HP and TQ from 1.3 L has to be close to an engineering marvel. Think of the 8 as a triathlonist, lean mass lean muscle better performance the whole way through.

 

 

****** A. That's why I chose N20.

 

lol, not to mention there's no MAF tube supplied on that eBay POS part

Captain Obvious to the rescue ....

 

I think it's kind of funny how everyone admits that there is very little power to be made by aftermarket components (besides FI), yet a lot of people dump countless thousands of dollars into them daily.

Hmmm....Maybe I should make parts for the Rx8. If you think about it, all they have to do is look pretty. They don't have to do much of anything....and yet people will still buy them......yes.....excellent.....

 

HP per $. That's what I'm about.

 

How do you like the N20 setup? Dry or Wet?

 

Wet, and I love it, it looks great sitting in my garage. I am still waiting for the bottle heater and purge kit. I have had to ration out my spending in order to stay married. I also have some warranty items to get fixed prior to the installation. I have done kits on cars in the past but I will take my time and do it perfectly on this one.

 

I understand the whole married thing. I'm in the same boat. Where the past cars that you've done the N20 with rotary powered? I am curious to see how well it works out. Keep me posted as I am very intrested. pm me when you get it on.

 

Pump gas has approximately 18,400 BTU/lb.

TT105 has about 19,300 BTU/lb.

TT105 also contains 2.7% oxygen - about 4 times as much as the best oxygenated pump gas.

Thats about 5% more BTU's before the extra O2.

If you get 185 HP to the wheels with pump gas, you should see about 194 HP with TT105. Maybe a little more.

It's cheap power but temporary. It costs about $85 a tankful. Sure you can pay more, buy it by the drum thats about what you'll pay.

 

Thanks for the near useless info. jk!

 

No this is the first rotary I have owned. I also have done installs on a few stangs and a Prelude and a GSR. Dry kits are easy as pie, wet kist depend on the car. Others on this site have the same ZEX kit I have so I expect high 13's at least with a 50 shot.

 

Hmmmm.....I'm gonna have to do some research. How much did that kit cost?

 

I paid around $600.00, check out the "official" nitrous thread by CRH. I have a heater from an NX kit but decided to go ZEX with everything. My good friend is a painter so he will be painting the bottle VR too prior to the install. I will see what the trunk temps are and hopefully I won't need the heater but most likely I will.

 

I was just looking at that thread while your replied to this one. Where did you buy yours? I think this is a definite thing for me.

 

I bought mine locally.

 

well I just bought a K&N intake used for 190 bucks... That's less than 20 bucks a horse...

 

I have been scoping out which intake kit to purchase.

The three on the table are the REVI, K&N, and AEM.
I see the k&n coming in at the cheapest averaging $250.
The AEM is hitting around $350.
The revi kit and duct hits around $600.

First question: How loud are the K&N and AEM? Is the noise that bad to where it's worth the $$ for the revi?

Second: How does each perform? Is there a clear winner?

Here's a question....since it's only up to 5hp for the cold air intake...would anyone recommend simply the replacement K&N stock filter?

Thanks for your thoughts!

 

If I had to buy an aftermarket intake, it would be the Racing Beat. Saying that however, keep in mind that Speedsource races their RX-8's with stock airboxes and stock paper filters. The only thing they do different is remove the VFAD duct and open up the airbox inlet a little bit.

 

What exactly does the VFAD do? Is there a diagram somewhere of the stock intake system.