Battery relocation benefit in NA?
06-13-2012, 11:33 PM
#1
Battery relocation benefit in NA?
Tried looking around, but posts i find about battery relocation tend to do with FI applications.
Im wondering if relocating the battery is worth it to a NA application(with cai to increase space).
In race trim i would think every bit of cooling is essential, but what about a rx8 that sees the occasional autox/track and one that is daily'd.
Can anybody chime in?
Im wondering if relocating the battery is worth it to a NA application(with cai to increase space).
In race trim i would think every bit of cooling is essential, but what about a rx8 that sees the occasional autox/track and one that is daily'd.
Can anybody chime in?
06-14-2012, 01:10 AM
#4
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Main benefit is to have more room in engine bay and swap to a less weight battery.
If you have vented hood, it'll help out cooling once you relocate the battery.
That's about it.
If you have vented hood, it'll help out cooling once you relocate the battery.
That's about it.
06-14-2012, 01:36 AM
#5
One thing that nobody mentioned is that it's way healthier for the battery to be inside the car. Being in the heat under the hood shortens their life.
Plus better cooling since the air coming off the radiator has somewhere to go and better weight distribution.
Plus better cooling since the air coming off the radiator has somewhere to go and better weight distribution.
06-14-2012, 10:52 AM
#7
An easy "half-way" alternative is to use an Odyssey 925 MJT battery in the stock location. It will open up some flow area behind the radiator (though not as much as an AEM/Mazdaspeed CAI) and saves ~25 lbs of deadweight on the nose. It's quite a high-tech lil thing (check Odyssey's website) and easily shipped from Summit Racing since there's no liquid in it. I've changed my install since this pic, putting big holes in the front part of the battery tray and a piece of plastic (ex-kitchen cutting board) on top to hold more securely since it's narrower then the stock battery as well. Personally, I did not want to add weight with extra wire for a rear mount, then compensate the weight by using a battery that was marginally-sized for use as a DD, especially considering the increased voltage drop to the starter from the long wires.
Last edited by HiFlite999; 06-14-2012 at 10:58 AM.
06-14-2012, 12:31 PM
#8
An easy "half-way" alternative is to use an Odyssey 925 MJT battery in the stock location. It will open up some flow area behind the radiator (though not as much as an AEM/Mazdaspeed CAI) and saves ~25 lbs of deadweight on the nose. It's quite a high-tech lil thing (check Odyssey's website) and easily shipped from Summit Racing since there's no liquid in it. I've changed my install since this pic, putting big holes in the front part of the battery tray and a piece of plastic (ex-kitchen cutting board) on top to hold more securely since it's narrower then the stock battery as well. Personally, I did not want to add weight with extra wire for a rear mount, then compensate the weight by using a battery that was marginally-sized for use as a DD, especially considering the increased voltage drop to the starter from the long wires.
I would ideally like to move it to the trunk, but it is a daily so problems may arise with the longer wire like you said, also there might be a risk of a cabin fire, i think it becomes too much of a hassle.
06-14-2012, 09:31 PM
#11
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I moved mine to the trunk for better access. Without the battery in there you can access all your coolant hoses with the car running (great when checking for leaks), its easier to add grounds when installing things, and the bay just looks a bit more tidy. That and my first battery exploded all over the place and destroyed my radiator, fans, and hoses, so an optima red top in the trunk makes me feel better 
Last edited by Sephitrask; 07-16-2012 at 09:18 PM.
06-14-2012, 10:49 PM
#12
Most historical verbage was on the PC680 and not at all clear whether they were of the "MJT" variety (required for underhood installation) or the normal (cheaper) unshielded one. Hardly conclusive as far as I can tell.
The subject of rear mounting per se has indeed been discussed rather endlessly, however. Race car = rear mount. Street car or little money = leave it alone. In between = no "perfect" solution. YOU (the OP) have to find your own balance.
YMMV
06-15-2012, 10:49 AM
#13
Momentum Keeps Me Going
You mention your car as DD with *1* track day? Why bother? You'll not notice any advantage, if there even is any and changing from OEM position will degrade any effect anyway bc the extra stuff needed adds weight over the battery alone. And most all cai's fit w/battery box inplace. Moving the battery is not required.
The OEM position is bad bc of heat, but a LA battery works ok, so why not get a smaller, lighter LA for there? Cheap, easier, done, and you'll feel better. The 8 originally came with a smaller battery, but people complained when leaving the car for weeks that it went dead. But DD will keep it well charged.
An lighter Odyssey works fine there as well... for 2 yrs. Then simply get another. It's only $$, it's easy, done, and you'll feel better still (it's more *advanced*, yes). MJT version or any other typical battery insulation there is a joke. Heat soak wins easily and quickly no matter what. Put a temp probe there and prove it to yourself.
Except 4 a race car, moving the battery from OEM location is just good in your mind (but a fun project
), as it adds extra weight, components, hassle, issues w/grounding, voltage drop, extra POF, etc., and does next to nothing performance-wise.
Bottom line, you'll need to get a whole lot more inventive and high tech to improve upon Mazda's KIS battery solution.
The OEM position is bad bc of heat, but a LA battery works ok, so why not get a smaller, lighter LA for there? Cheap, easier, done, and you'll feel better. The 8 originally came with a smaller battery, but people complained when leaving the car for weeks that it went dead. But DD will keep it well charged.
An lighter Odyssey works fine there as well... for 2 yrs. Then simply get another. It's only $$, it's easy, done, and you'll feel better still (it's more *advanced*, yes). MJT version or any other typical battery insulation there is a joke. Heat soak wins easily and quickly no matter what. Put a temp probe there and prove it to yourself
.Except 4 a race car, moving the battery from OEM location is just good in your mind (but a fun project
), as it adds extra weight, components, hassle, issues w/grounding, voltage drop, extra POF, etc., and does next to nothing performance-wise.Bottom line, you'll need to get a whole lot more inventive and high tech to improve upon Mazda's KIS battery solution.
07-16-2012, 07:28 PM
#16
you can do what i did. https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...-fluid-216351/
i still daily it in the summer months.
i still daily it in the summer months.
I daily the car and dont have any soundsystems or anything so i dont have to worry about it losing charge.
07-19-2012, 09:28 AM
#17
Spin, what about a small lightweight Braille Battery? I think they go as low as 9pounds before the amperage drops too much?
You mention your car as DD with *1* track day? Why bother? You'll not notice any advantage, if there even is any and changing from OEM position will degrade any effect anyway bc the extra stuff needed adds weight over the battery alone. And most all cai's fit w/battery box inplace. Moving the battery is not required.
The OEM position is bad bc of heat, but a LA battery works ok, so why not get a smaller, lighter LA for there? Cheap, easier, done, and you'll feel better. The 8 originally came with a smaller battery, but people complained when leaving the car for weeks that it went dead. But DD will keep it well charged.
An lighter Odyssey works fine there as well... for 2 yrs. Then simply get another. It's only $$, it's easy, done, and you'll feel better still (it's more *advanced*, yes). MJT version or any other typical battery insulation there is a joke. Heat soak wins easily and quickly no matter what. Put a temp probe there and prove it to yourself.
Except 4 a race car, moving the battery from OEM location is just good in your mind (but a fun project), as it adds extra weight, components, hassle, issues w/grounding, voltage drop, extra POF, etc., and does next to nothing performance-wise.
Bottom line, you'll need to get a whole lot more inventive and high tech to improve upon Mazda's KIS battery solution.
The OEM position is bad bc of heat, but a LA battery works ok, so why not get a smaller, lighter LA for there? Cheap, easier, done, and you'll feel better. The 8 originally came with a smaller battery, but people complained when leaving the car for weeks that it went dead. But DD will keep it well charged.
An lighter Odyssey works fine there as well... for 2 yrs. Then simply get another. It's only $$, it's easy, done, and you'll feel better still (it's more *advanced*, yes). MJT version or any other typical battery insulation there is a joke. Heat soak wins easily and quickly no matter what. Put a temp probe there and prove it to yourself
.Except 4 a race car, moving the battery from OEM location is just good in your mind (but a fun project
), as it adds extra weight, components, hassle, issues w/grounding, voltage drop, extra POF, etc., and does next to nothing performance-wise.Bottom line, you'll need to get a whole lot more inventive and high tech to improve upon Mazda's KIS battery solution.
09-18-2017, 04:27 AM
#19
New Member
09-28-2017, 10:42 PM
#24
lithium batteries don't like heat, especially rotary engine heat
The factory location inhibits radiator flow, which then exacerbates the noted prior situation
A 2 lb battery might cut it for a Miata, but it's begging for a rotary engine to either need a jump best case, (edit) or be flooded, or maybe even lose an engine worst case
So my 10 lb lithium battery has the cranking power and amp-hr stamina of a truck-size acid battery, but costs 20x more too
So then we go back to the first reason noted above, because the last thing you want to do to a battery that would otherwise have a long service life in the trunk and costs so much is to force it's early demise by baking it in the engine bay.
I learned all this the hard way with quite a few lesser Odyssey, Braille, etc. batteries before finally paying to do it right 7 years ago
.
The factory location inhibits radiator flow, which then exacerbates the noted prior situation
A 2 lb battery might cut it for a Miata, but it's begging for a rotary engine to either need a jump best case, (edit) or be flooded, or maybe even lose an engine worst case
So my 10 lb lithium battery has the cranking power and amp-hr stamina of a truck-size acid battery, but costs 20x more too
So then we go back to the first reason noted above, because the last thing you want to do to a battery that would otherwise have a long service life in the trunk and costs so much is to force it's early demise by baking it in the engine bay.
I learned all this the hard way with quite a few lesser Odyssey, Braille, etc. batteries before finally paying to do it right 7 years ago
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 09-28-2017 at 10:58 PM.
09-28-2017, 10:46 PM
#25
Another piece of advice....don't go to a small battery that has a low reserve capacity
I lost one engine for sure...and likely 2 because the power steering and other electrical loads overwhelmed the alternator/battery and allowed my system voltage to drop enough that I had a misfire....
I lost one engine for sure...and likely 2 because the power steering and other electrical loads overwhelmed the alternator/battery and allowed my system voltage to drop enough that I had a misfire....