cody205

Okay, so I'm just getting into actually doing things to my rx, and I don't know much, but I AM trying to learn. I've used the search box religiously and came across many things, but I haven't seemed to find anything on my particular situation, so I'd like some flame-free help from some of the more experienced rotorheads out there. If it HAS been covered before, I haven't found it through searching, so I apologize. Please either go over it again, or provide me with a link to where I can help myself. Here we go...So the opening in the stock exhaust manifold is for the air injection tube. On the stock manifold it has two threaded pins sticking out, which are placed through the holes on the air injection tube, then tightened down with nuts. On my aftermarket header, I just have two threaded holes. I believe it is a fluid motorsports header. I assume it is NOT reccomended to block off the air injection tube? I have a 2004 na rx8 with a k&n typhoon intake, a cat-delete pipe, and this header. What should I do about this, and how should I go about doing it? Should I block it off, should I......?


Here is a link of the opening I am talking about(In this link, it also has the pins with nuts, as the stock manifold does, except this one is blocked off)


http://www.racingbeat.com/Mazda-Perf...rtNumber=16346

zoom44

where do you live? are you driving this car on the street or will it be a track car?

czar

iTrader: (3)

the air injection is to speed up the cat warm up, it runs at start up then shuts off, it wont hurt anything besides emissions. It also wont pass inspection though with a cat delete.

Greenblurr93

iTrader: (1)

If you dont have a cat, you can make a block off plate and remove the pipe and secondary air pump and solenoid as its not needed anymore...

you will throw a CEL for it though.. you can disable it as well as the cat CEL with the Cobb AP

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

why not make that little extra exhaust flow into another header pipe?

Greenblurr93

iTrader: (1)

could make one of those wastegate style dump tubes and have it come out the bumper like those cool kids...

supergoat

Let me get this straight. The air injection tube has two holes. The header has two threaded holes.

Why not just buy some bolts that thread into those holes so you can connect the air tube to it? Problem solved.

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

Just block it off like in the racing beat header pic. You don't have a cat. You don't need the airpump. (because you have no cat)

And it's an inlet not an outlet Olddragger.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

what goes in can come out
Just curious

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I wonder if anyone has uncovered it and ran the engine?

Besides if you put a pipe there you could also have a small john deere lawnmover muffler on it--let it hang down--swear by it and next thing you know 2-3 others would do the same---and it would run like a deere !
OD

TrochoidMagic

didn't look at the link... but i feel you.

you don't gotta be a genius to solve that problem... as i had no spare 10mm bolts with the proper thread reach when i installed MY header (same problem).

use the phillips head screws off your front license plate. they are easier to align to the gasket when installing. they only need to be handtightened, but feel free to replace with 10mm bolts afterwards that has proper thread reach.

such an easy problem to tackle...makes me wonder why you post for help if you've gone that far on a header install???

cody205

I can haz ADHD? I jump into things without completely knowing what is necessary to complete everything. I know... BAD Ju-ju. BUT, I'm ALWAYS learning from my mistakes!!!

cody205

I can haz directions to remove air pump and solenoid?
Do I need a different belt, or anything else except to remove the pump and solenoid? Where is the solenoid? I see the pump.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

What is with 'I can haz'?
Try 'May I have' . . . damn kids

No... the air pump is electrical, not belt driven.

Behind the UIM, in front of the oil filter, top solenoid with a blue connector.
Simply disconnecting the electrical connection will prevent the valve from opening, no need to remove the whole solenoid.

You can remove the pump itself, but not everything on that "bracket".
It also has a fuel resistor and sensor that will prevent the car from running if removed.

Mazurfer

Oh boy.......not talking about this instance, but over all........this is probably not going to end well.

cody205

Lol. my wife changed my phone around. She does it from time to time, then sits back and watches as I make an *** out of myself online, or when I send emails to people with higher rank.(US Army) Sorry about that. Thank you for the directions. Helped out quite a bit. I am trying to learn all I can without learning from my OWN mistakes. BUT, I always end up to do so, in one way or another anyways.