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The factory flywheel looks a lot like a a wheel off a train car. It is huge, and has a shape in it that balances the engine. It also carried a great deal of weight on the periphery. This function is split in two with with a light flywheel. The old monster comes off, the balance part goes on, very close to the center line, and the new, light, flywheel bolts to that. Overall the weight drops several pounds, However the major benefit is the weight is now in towards the shaft. This dramatically reduces the inertia of the flywheel.
Factory flywheel notice how deep it is. The holes you can see are what change the balance. That edge is over half an inch thick all the way around.
Wow u don't know how long I been looking for the real explanation on needed a counter weight, sure I've head the basics but never found a in depth explanation, this helps a hell of a lot. Atleast now Ill understand wat I'm doing wen I'm installing it. Seems like you've tackled this job before, while I have u helping me out I got a question for u. The reason I'm even installing a light weight flywheel is because ima be replacing my clutch as well and I have a clutch in mind to buy but haven't gotten it yet because I want to be 100% sure I'm making a good choice. My question is this, whitch clutch would u recommend, I'm thinking about a exedy stage1 hd clutch, I wanted something slightly better than stock, at one point I was thinking about doin a stage 2 from exedy as well but heard that daily driving one will take a toll one u and will just eventually just get tired of driving. Any suggestions or opinions? (My car is only lightly modded with the basics; mazdaspeed cold air intake, mazda speed catback exhaust, sway bar kit and adjustable end links)
DO NOT GET THE STAGE 1 CLUTCH. unless you are going FI with big power. The OEM one is plenty for all the renesis will produce. I know, I took mine back out and put an OEM one in. an 8 is a car that feels very light in all that it does. that heavy *** PITB clutch was the only part of the car that was heavy.
As for a flywheel, I have a pro-lite. If I had it do again, I think I would go for the street light. You still get a benefit, but the difference is that the street light should soak up a bit more vibration and give you a quieter car. I get a slight rattle around 2K that showed up with the flywheel. Removing the inertia from the rim of the factory one is the big win, putting a little more back to dampen vibration is not bad.
And, DO NOT GET THE STAGE 1 clutch. I think it is the only mod I took off the car.
I did not like the pressure. It was a pain in traffic, and it, to me, screwed up the feel of the car. There are those that like a stronger clutch pedal. For them it is great, I did not like it at all. I also did it when I had the trans out for replacement after my daughter killed the one that was in there.
Wow, how bad was the stage 1 that u decide to go OEM? What were the big differences u noticed between them?
There's absolutely nothing wrong with the OE clutch. I raced with them for 10 years ... kind of makes me giggle every time I see some F&F dufus going on about a Stage Infinity clutch setup
I did not like the pressure. It was a pain in traffic, and it, to me, screwed up the feel of the car. There are those that like a stronger clutch pedal. For them it is great, I did not like it at all. I also did it when I had the trans out for replacement after my daughter killed the one that was in there.
That's exactly what I don't want, something that makes driving the car annoying. How was removing the trans? And also another question, is the flywheel nut really 54mm and if so, where can I find a socket, I've looked and no one seems to have one in store.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with the OE clutch. I raced with them for 10 years ... kind of makes me giggle every time I see some F&F dufus going on about a Stage Infinity clutch setup
Lol that's funny, that is exactly why I was confused about the best replacement option. Everyone saying to upgrade stages. Appreciate the input. This makes two actual 8 owners that suggests oem is the way to go. Definitely helps for making my decision.
I'm wondering how difficult the new racing setup will be to launch seeing as how the entire mounted clutch/flywheel assembly is only 10 lbs total weight ....
and I suppose we should mention that Green's OEM clutch came out of my car ...
This thread is just shy of a decade old my friend.
I did a counter weight from the same company that made the flywheel. It worked for me.
As for getting the factory one off.. Loosen the big nut a few turns, but a 2x4 on the flywheel, near the edge, whack that with a big hammer. Beating on the flywheel does not work. The board appears to have magical properties, or at least changes the impact to whatever it needs to be to pop the flywheel loose. Then the nut will catch it. I am just glad the OP was not killed when he launched a 20 lb flywheel at his face.
or just whack it with a big rubber mallet a few times, it will pop out, but yeah MAKE SURE you have the nut on, 15-20 lbs falls right onto ur foot(feet) is NOT fun.
you can bang it with an iron hammer if u know u will never use that FW again, but I would just get a 10 bux rubber mallet, take the OLD FW out and sell it for 100 bux.
Most of them require a metal hammer and as long as you aren't hitting the actual clutch engagement surface or trying to ring the bell at the fair it should be completely reusable.
02-17-2015, 12:58 PM
