philsbluerx8

i am just wondering which pcm reflash better fits me. cuz they have two options which are street reflash and racing reflash. whats the difference do they make between each other. And if i just wanna daily drive(not gonna go any racing competation), which one would best fit me? also they have some info on their website but i don't understand it (http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm). when the pcm has been returned, should i do the options listed on the website above or they have already done it when reflashing my pcm.
well, i am not really clear with what that does, hope you guys understand what i meant.

one more question, when i get my pcm back from them, am i just gonna put the pcm back( is it that)? or i have to do something else to make the car work with the reflashed pcm.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Street flash will (probably) pass an emissions check, if your state has tests get that one.
Race flash needs the cat removed, or will kill it quick, so will NOT pass emissions.
There are other differences that don't matter.

You would just screw it back in, no adjustments needed.

S

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I have the street flash and Im happy with it, the power delivery feels somewhat different. Compare to stock, it feels like the power goes up in a very very smooth way.

philsbluerx8

wow, sounds good. i just did my mazda recall today, i have already felt a little different when pressing gas pedal. i dont know if its just my mental influence or what..... but a little different really happens on mine....... by the way, is the mazda recall suppsed to make a little different on power or nothing.... they were saying that its all about drivability, what they did is just to change two spark plugs and to reflash the pcm

philsbluerx8

got one question again, since the dyno chart given on racing beat website, revi intake and racing beat exhaust are included. does it mean that i also need to get my intake and exhaust from racing beat so that i can gain the same result with the dyno chart. Even if it does, i have racing beat cat-back but not revi intake. however, i am thinking to get the air duct from racing beat too. Does it make difference between full package from racing beat and my 80% of the racing beat package with just another intake system.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I think you would get most of the gains without the RB intake .

tajabaho1

just get the air duct, intake not necessary

staticlag

i would get the reflash just for the added benefit of turning on the radiator fans earilier, helps a lot in street stop and go traffic

RWagz

Yeah, ditto to that - today with ambient temps at 87deg F sitting in a fast food drivethru my fans were cycling on and off. If the engine gets hot just driving the 1/4 from where I work and sitting in the drivethru for 5m in not all that hot temps, earlier fan turn-on times seems like a good idea to me.

It's an easy decision for me as well - I can send off my PCM while my car is garaged for the winter and not worry about getting it back quickly so that I can drive the car.

I just have to deal with driving the Escort thru the winter. Oh well, at least I'll appreciate the '8 when spring comes around again.

Keef

The Racing Beat reflash was the easiest/cheapest modification with the greatest gains.

From experience I suggest you get the flash first, I have the race flash and from experience I will say that my biggest enjoyment from the flash is the increased torque in the mid-range (3,000-5,000) for daily driving it really helps out (the street flash doesn't mess with the mid-range only the 6,000 + range). If I could start from the beginning I would've bought a used mid-pipe for cheap (100-200) and kept the stock exhaust. Get the flash and you'll be a quiet sleeper with a little bit more kick than the regular 8. After you have the flash, you should be able too "feel" every other modification you do a lot better (specifically headers and intake).

I feel like I went a stupid route by installing my flywheel/clutch, intake, and under drive pulley in the same day because within a week my "supercat" began melting because (from what I'm guessing) all those modifications f***** with my stock ECU, making my ECU run too rich. I doubt if I kept the stock catalytic converter that would've been an issue. Anyway, after my "supercat" melted I decided too just leave my 8 catless...

The best part about the RB flash is that it does keep both your coolant fans on all the time, giving you colder AC. Having the RPM raised wasn't that fun until I got my OBX headers, they really opened up those higher RPM's.

If I could describe the flash vs. stock, I'm sure when you are going pedal too the metal in 3rd you notice how the power our 8's make (with the stock ECU) seems too come and go depending on the RPM's. Well the RB flash makes the acceleration consistent.

kngfmsta

what kind of affects does this flash have if i have a canzoomer waiting to be installed. will it help in any way to get it flashed and then install the canzoomer chip and get it tuined? or will the chip cancel out any benificial preformance that the flash offers?

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Bought an ECU from an '04 MT and sent it to be flashed with the Racing Beat 'race' flash.

Works REALLY well, my butt-dyno can feel at least 13.6 ponies !
I would love to dyno the difference, but I probably never will......

Actually the dyno-ing would be a snap, because the flashed ECU is just plug'n'play - the race flash eliminates the immobilizer program on an '04. Just dyno the stocker, then swap in the new one, three minutes total!

'Course, that also means that when the RB computer is in, my car can just be stolen with a quick ignition punch - but only the people on this forum know that, and I trust you all!

S

Ronn

StealthTL or Keef, what is the different in driving between the street flash and the race flash? Is it that noticable at lower RPM for the race vs street flash say around 3000-5000 RPM? Does the top end feel the same like from 5000-red line. I have street flash on mine and it run real good so far. It just goes and goes until it beeps. Does Racing beat using the same map from 5000 and up but lean out more between 3000-5000 RPM for the race flash? I have 3" mid pipe on mine along with Green air filter/pulley. I am just curious....

chetrickerman

I am wondering the same thing, but i am also wondering how long does it take for them to reflash my PCM, cause my 8 is my DD.

Ronn

It will takes about 5-8 days depending on what kind of shipping you do. If you want it really quick, do an over nite and racing beat will ship to you via priority mail which is 3-4 days. Looking at a week or so of down time. If you can borrow someone car during that time, do it. It well worth it after the PCM is reprogrammed.

chetrickerman

Well my mom has a mustang, but she took the insurance off of it seeing as we dont drive it, so i could possibly drive that, but im also gonna get the supercat, so should i just wait to get that and then get the Race reflash, or just send it in now?

philsbluerx8

from the experience #10 gives, i think you should do flash first; but are they shipping by priority mail???.....it sucks, cuz i had been waiting for 20 days for my short shifter since they shipped via priority mail and when it got into Canada, it became canada post which is the worst shipping method in Canada i think!!!!!

Ronn

Well, racing beat race flash may kill your super Cat...it had happened to other people. This flash is meant to be running without cat. I don't know what the different between the race and the street flash is but it sounds like the race one is running richer at 3000-6000 rpm and may produce better low end. Street flash will run fine with Cat. The top end should be similar between the two. I have street flash with mid pipe and it pulls much better than stock. I also have pully, green air filter and fly wheel and also 17" light weight rims so it all help. Make sure you have the mustang with insurance before you take off the PCM and send to Racing Beat. Do you need to have emission test in your area? If not go with midpipe and use stock exhaust. It is not loud. I have Hymee with RX 7 store midpipe and it is loud at WOT but not loud at normal driving. And I don't need to have emission test in MN so I run midpipe on my car.

chetrickerman

I think he may have gotten his words screwed up, cause running rich wouldnt cause the cat to melt, running lean would though, but im prolly gonna get the rx7store midpipe with the resonator and then the corksport exhaust. I think in waukesha, you just have to get the car emission tested once then you are on your way, but so far i havent gotten a letter saying that i need to. For my last car i had to right after i bought the car. So i should be ok from emissions testing. Thanks for the info, and yea, i will put the insurance back on the stang for the week while my car is down.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Too rich or too lean will both kill yo cat.

Been there, T-shirt aquired......

S

chetrickerman

huh, didnt know that, cause lean produces high exhaust temps, which i think would cause the cat failure, but i dont know why too rich would kill the cat, cause then the exhaust would be a lot cooler, along with the engine.

Ronn

Hey, I advice you that you do not want to run corksport exhaust with RX 7 store midpipe. I had that on my car before I got the Hymee exhaust. Cork sport+ mippipe = ticket. It is just too freaking loud. I got 2 tickets for that. Cops were following me and stopped me for exhaust too loud. It was cool the first day but after setting off car alarms off on small streets and freaking out people in other vehicles I had to replace my corksport with a quieter system. Hymee work well or Racing Beat or stock exhaust. Keep your stock midpipe when you go have your emission test and put the midpipe back on after you done. Corksport sounds very nice with stock cat. With midpipe it will drone like crazy around 3500 rpm which is high way speed and get progressively louder until 6000 rpm and after that it sounds real nice. Also Corksport pipes are 2.25 inches where the stock pipes are 2.75" (? I dont' remember but is has larger OD than corksport). With Hymee I used the existing stock B-pipe which is 2.75" and it mounted nicely to the midpipe. It also sound nice and the exhaust has the best weld and finish of any exhaust that I have seen. Well worth the money.

chetrickerman

ok, thanks for saving me, haha, well how much does the hymee weigh? i was gonna go with the corksport because it is really light. Otherwise i have heard people say that the borla with the midpipe sounds nice, and i guess the borla is light, but not as light as the corksport. AND i think the piping is 3" in diameter. yay for free flow!

Ronn

Corksport is one of the lightest beside the HKS single sided exhaust. Hymee is lighter than stock but not by much. What you get is quality and good sounding exhaust and the tip is doubled wall which is more durable than single wall tip. You saved weight by removing the stock midpipe (~25 -30 lbs?) and replace with the aftermarket midpipe which only weight around 10-15 lbs. The best thing to do is go ride with someone with the set up you want and see if you can live with it. It is a lot of money and you want to get it right first time. As for flow...I don't think it matter much between 3" and 2.5" except for loudness. If you want to turbo your car down the road, get the HKS single sided, it is 3" all the way. But it will be loud with midpipe. It won't be as loud once you turbo the car.

chetrickerman

well there are a decent amount of people around here with 8's, but the problem is that most of them are stock, and if they arent, they are only minor mods like light wheels and tires. nothing like exhaust or anything else. I think i might just go with the mid/resonator and the stock catback. I want it to be quiet, yet roar at WOT. I think that will accomplish it. Thanks for all the info