legokcen

Did you give them the middle finger on your way out? I would have. There are several dealerships in Charlotte. Which one did you go to? You know.... TGPR would be a great way to break in the car!

TrackAddict

That's disappointing but not surprising. I can imagine them not wanting to put on performance parts and warrantee them but voiding the whole warrantee is just ignorance. I hope you get one on your terms but I would expect you have to install all the go fast bits yourself.

L8APEX

silver, my dyno graph looked like that too, i wish i had the time to stick around yesterday. I would like to see if the new plugs helped out at all. Maybe after I get back from TGPR I will take the car back over to Jim Ellis and have them check the coils.

6 more days...

Phlash

Fri
Jan 27 Mostly Cloudy 60°/45° 20 %

Sat
Jan 28 Cloudy 63°/50° 20 %

;0)

Stop&TurnFreak

The erratic lines is either too much fuel, or not enough spark. I suspect a grounding kit would help, which improves the spark of the engine. Also, new plugs, would make some differnence, but not sure how much. I had to tune mine to get that out, which as you know, is the BEST thing I have ever done.

As for the car, most of the time, dealers will warranty stuff if they A) understand what it does, and B) install it themselves, so they are not dealing with others mistakes. At least that is how Mits and Ford was. That is what was surprising my ford dealership was great, they would let me put anything on teh car, short of a blower, and still stand behind it. I even broke a front A arm at CMP, and they replaced it for free, despite all the suspension mods.

I ams ure I can find a dealership to do this, I just have to look around. I think I am going to look for a winning blue or a whatever yellow, just to see if I can find one. However, the white is simply gorgous.

TrackAddict

So are we still on to chat on Monday night at 9pm?

So you don't have to dig through this thread here is the link to the chat room:

http://www.opentrackers.com/chat/phpMyChat.php3

L8APEX

i am still up for it, might need a reminder phone call, but will try to remember on my own.

SilverEIGHT

I've often wondered if that is the reason I get worse gas milage than most 8's.

I think you are correct on the electrical issue. I hope to find the answer this week before TGPR. I will also do a follow up Dyno if anyone wants to join me in about 2 weeks. I will start a thread on the GA site since this is a local thing.

Phlash

You mean your not getting 300+ miles per tank like the rest of us? Too bad...I'd demand a new car!

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Silver---
I disagree. I dont think yours is electrical(although I am not the expert here) in nature. From my old cz days and hearing about others with burnt coils etc --going JUST by your dyno--it doesnt look like coils or electrical. I think it is your secondary ports not opening up. As you probaly know the 8 has a air induction system (simalar in therory to honda v tec system) in which at certain rpm points more intake ports open. Our secondaty ports have a little electrical motor or switch that can malfunction. Your dyno sheet shows your motor peaking at the point at which those ports are suppose to open. I have spoken with others with dyno sheets like yours and symptoms such as you have described--motor goes flat lack of power etc. I could be wrong but have them check to see if your secondaries are opening up. Was this a 5th gear pull? You are making 172 at at 7k and 131 of toqure? Without secondaries that is damn good if this was a 5th gear pull.
olddragger

SilverEIGHT

OD, it was a 5th gear pull. I'll be looking into any and all of the suggestions I get from you guys.

I started a thread on the GARX8Club site... DYNO thread

legokcen

The HP+'s are great! They are also very convenient. I had a jacket in the back seat today that I couldn't reach and all I had to do was hit the brakes and bam, in my hands! Thanks a lot Hawk!

32VCobra

Would the secondaries not opening cause the spikes in the curve though? The '96 to '98 year model Cobras have secondary intake ports and the controller is called the IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Controller).

I've seen dyno graphs where the IMRC wasn't opening but the curve was still smooth. There just wouldn't be the sudden upturn in the curve at the point in the RPM range where the controller was programmed to open.

Maybe the secondaries not opening would be a symptom but I'm not sure it would be the cause of all the chaos in Silver8's dyno graph. I would still think it would be electrical or fuel as others have suggested. Then again I know very little (read nothing) about rotary engines.

TrackAddict

Last year wheen I dyno'ed I had a very jagged curve and the RPM didn't register. Turned out I had 3 out of 4 coils that were bad. My power was OK however. When we dyno'ed last year several others had power losses over 7K which we speculated had to do with the ports opening. I don't know if anyone with those problems re-dyno'ed.

legokcen

Is there anyway to know the AFR during the run? It might change from the stoicheometric equilibrium of 14.7 which could cause the power fluctuations after 5500 rpm.

At 5500 and at 7200 there are anomolies to the normal hp/tq graphs I've seen. I'm reallly surprised that your HP is peaking early (sorry, they don't make a pill for that), but the S-DAIS does change at those rpm spots (see below). At 5500, the VFAD opens and at 7250, the Primary intake ports interconnnect & adds a second shorter path along with teh VFAD opening. I don't know if the spark changes during those intervals.

You might have an issue with the S-DAIS, but I believe the curve is too jagged to be that alone.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

All the shutter may be the wheels doing a little bounce on the rollers? The little dip at 6k is expected. Maybe if the wheels arent bouncing -then I see what you mean about electrical--but look where the torque is and dang thats good. I still say the high rpm lost is the secondaries. iwould check that 1st.
olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

makes me wonder if my coils are ok--car runs fine but I gather that you can think it does and the coils are still a little off. Other than looking for a blown coil what test can you do--take it to the dealer?
olddragger

SilverEIGHT

OD, no bouncing on the rollers that I could tell.

L8APEX

Charlie told me where the coils are located, now if he could join in on this, give a little idea of what to look for, maybe we can start checking into it.

legokcen

These may help.... You can test them if you have a multimeter. Also, should check you wires too.

valpac

iTrader: (2)

Ok, several months ago my HP line continued upward after 7200 RPM to a peak 189 at 8500 and falling of after that. (normal)

Yesterday after 7200 RPM my HP line went flat with a peak of 177 before fall off. 12 HP down!

Charlie suggested I might have bad coils. So when I got home I removed the first coil and noticed a white spot on the back indicating an over heat condition (aka burnt) I did not take out the other three as they will need to be replaced as a set. Hopefully I can get this done by next Saturday. Don, I think your coils are probably fried too.

MS nose? Who me?

legokcen

Beautiful Val. The MS nose is great. I'm thinking of getting one too. Been looking online. Where did you get it from? Who painted it? Inquiring minds want to know.

valpac

iTrader: (2)

A multimeter will only check if a coil is open in which case it wouldn't work at all. A heat damaged coil cannot generate a full magnetic field at high rpms and therefore cannot generate enough voltage.

A burnt coil is not necessarily bad through the entire rpm range. When the coil is not overheated it performs like a normal coil. Thats why the dyno lines look fairly normal until higher rpms (loads) are reached. Most users will never know if their coils are "burnt" because they behave normally unless pressed to their limits. I guess the more accurate term is degraded performance as burnt implies dead.

Marietta 8

The ports are opening which explains the stepped graph on all the dyno sheets at 3 different locations. Mine was always smooth like it is now but sevferal months back while dynoing yet another component, the graph got jagged like TA's did. My coils were burnt, they were replaced and the graph was smooth again and the power went back to where it was. speedsource has had coil issues and all of us will too. I think they will end up being a maintenance item in the future. They are not expensive which is cool. I've always recommended wires at 30k on the older rotaries so maybe it's to be considered on our 8's too. I have a set of RB wires but have not instlled them. My feeling is that there will be no gain from them unless the old wires are a problem. This is the case with all ignition wires I have ever used. I am not a believer in any of the snake oil plug wires out there but the Ultra wires that RB sells are good quality and they fit well otherwise the factory wires are the way to go.

I wish you all smooth, high dyno graphs, very high corner exit speeds, and tons of grip.


Chas

valpac

iTrader: (2)

Got a deal on a slightly damaged unit from Rosenthal Mazda. Nothing wrong cosmetically just a couple of snapped tabs on the ends. It was already painted just bolt it on.

A special thanks to Nabil who despite the jittery hands (no track), can still operate a wrench well.