Originally Posted by blu3dragon
(Post 4727527)
Good to see. Next test at Sonoma? :-)
btw, I found a pic that confirms a reman comes with a water pump. So, you most likely have one that is newer than the car. The thermostat does not though, so that could still be the original one. |
Originally Posted by hoss -05
(Post 4727379)
Are you seeing high oil temps?
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Oil and cooling temps are somewhat codependent. If you bring down the temps of the coolant it will also help a bit with the oil temps.
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Originally Posted by BigBadChris
(Post 4725014)
After I get some measurements (the car is in a storage unit at the moment) I will look into this. The FAL has been on my wish list for a while.
I'm opting to try an AEM CAI first along with cutting the battery tray before the FAL, and before cutting and removing the fan supports on the drivers side... |
No one know what the stock fans flow so I'm not sure where you got that number. I can tell you is that myself and two other locals have the FAL 420 (been on a couple of years now) and it definitely flows way more than the stock setup even just connected to the factory wiring. Hoss-05 has the 480 setup and it flows even more, although for this setup I the 480 fan motors might not fit as they are taller than the 420 setup.
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I got them from searching the board for flow rates when searching for data on the stock fans. I want to say that I saw 1700cfm + 1250cfm somewhere.
Good to know that they flow well and last a while - i was digging through your thread with the Mizu fan the other day. Still trying to get everything to fit at this point without cutting too much of the fan shroud away - good to know that the flow rate on the FAL would likely be sufficient and it would have a slightly lower profile than the stock one (I think the 420 is the one i was looking at - 12 1/8" dual, right?)/ |
I would not trust that info as this data is not available so unless someone actually tested them (which I high doubt) they are just guessing.
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9k, how much bigger are the 420 fans compared to stock? I might have some clearance issues with a very large fan, I am afraid.
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The 420 setup has a lower profile than the stock fans by quite a bit.
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4728108)
The 420 setup has a lower profile than the stock fans by quite a bit.
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It's very close to stock, maybe even a bit thicker.
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FAL 420 may fit. Hopefully, someone is able to try it out and post confirmation pics.
Is it worth modifying the shroud to accept the ecu cooling duct? |
I apologize in advance for the partial threadjack
Since the Flex A Lite 480 is currently cheaper than the 420, I went ahead and bought it. In addition, they are both listed as being four inches deep. Maybe it will fit, maybe it wont. Thats why the good lord gave us a return policy. If anyone wants a 480, tonight might be night |
the FAL 420 is lower profile - it's listed as being 2 5/8" deep, not 4" deep - that's a pretty big difference. The 480 and 490 are both a full 4" deep. The benefit of the 480 or 490 is that they'll push more air (3000cfm vs 2500cfm), but if fitment is an issue, you may be going the wrong way going with the 480 over the 420...
I'm not certain that I'll need a FAL fan (keep in mind, my install is in an S2, so the difference in thickness is not as pronounced), but if I need additional clearance, I"m probably going with the 420 (or maybe the one with the variable speed control?). |
Amazon lists them both as being four inches deep. How strange. Well, I will know on Saturday.
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After checking the dimensions of the fal 420/480/490 it appears the shroud will need to be modified around the radiator hose area to fit. I agree pcs, there may likely be an issue with the higher cfm 480/490 units here because of the increased profile to 4".
We actually have been testing our own shroud and fan combo which is a direct bolt-on unit for the dual pass radiator! The unit will flow the same CFM as the fal490 but in a slimmer profile with some other goodies. :cool: |
Originally Posted by BigBadChris
(Post 4728189)
I apologize in advance for the partial threadjack
Since the Flex A Lite 480 is currently cheaper than the 420, I went ahead and bought it. In addition, they are both listed as being four inches deep. Maybe it will fit, maybe it wont. Thats why the good lord gave us a return policy. If anyone wants a 480, tonight might be night Amazon.com: Flex-a-lite 490 X-treme S-blade 12" Dual Reversible Fan: Automotive
Originally Posted by pcs
(Post 4728210)
the FAL 420 is lower profile - it's listed as being 2 5/8" deep, not 4" deep - that's a pretty big difference. The 480 and 490 are both a full 4" deep. The benefit of the 480 or 490 is that they'll push more air (3000cfm vs 2500cfm), but if fitment is an issue, you may be going the wrong way going with the 480 over the 420...
I'm not certain that I'll need a FAL fan (keep in mind, my install is in an S2, so the difference in thickness is not as pronounced), but if I need additional clearance, I"m probably going with the 420 (or maybe the one with the variable speed control?). |
Originally Posted by RX-Tuner
(Post 4728302)
After checking the dimensions of the fal 420/480/490 it appears the shroud will need to be modified around the radiator hose area to fit. I agree pcs, there may likely be an issue with the higher cfm 480/490 units here because of the increased profile to 4".
We actually have been testing our own shroud and fan combo which is a direct bolt-on unit for the dual pass radiator! The unit will flow the same CFM as the fal490 but in a slimmer profile with some other goodies. :cool: |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4728304)
That is a hell of a deal on the 480, the 490 is more because it comes with the VSC, which most don't need.
Yeah it's quite a big difference between the 480/490 and teh 420. But Hoss-05 has a Ron Davis radiator and the 490 fit just fine. |
The 980s fit just fine and I doubt you will have an issue with stock fitment. But the 420 will for sure and still flows more than enough air.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...a4c4866bf2.jpg |
Hell I'm tempted to throw a set of stock connectors on the 420's include some mounting clips or pins and sell it as a kit myself :P
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Hi Mike!
The radiator in that pic has the standard OE design inlet and outlet hose locations. The dual pass unit has the inlet and outlets located on the passenger side end tank so the FAL shroud and fan appear to be in the way. Not 100% sure regarding the thickness but if the pic is the standard RD unit our dual pass is thicker and the FAL 480/490 may cause depth issues.:dunno: Just wanted to chime in before anyone bought fans that may not be compatible with the dual pass unit. |
Right on, I still think it will fit just fine but it may be something to look into. I was actually surprised by how well the flexalite fan setups fit spot on with a few different set ups. I expected to have to change some things around but they always just fit.
From prior conversation you and I had a few years ago your core should be about ideal and a great solution for controlling lots of heat. Had I known about it at the time it would most likely be on my car. |
Originally Posted by escapedan
(Post 4724608)
4) Lower Airbox
I had to cut major parts of the lower Airbox away (maybe just not using it is better). This was the only part that made me really frustrated. Manageable, but at this point I was wishing I had known what I was getting into as daylight was quickly leaving. See my pics on this one. I left it here for the night. |
UPDATE!!
I drove at Sonoma Raceway yesterday (Sears Point, if you're an older guy...) and the results were outstanding!! Drove hard, held nothing back, and never went over 200 degrees, even behind traffic. In clean air the temp held 180-190 all day long. Outside air temps topped out at 70 degrees (nice to be in CA in November) so that was working in my favor. However, even with similar ambient temps the old (stock) radiator would hit 230 within 5 laps. So, final result for me. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. All the modifications were totally worth it. I would do this mod again in a heartbeat. Feel free to PM me with any questions whatsoever. |
Similar ambient temps to previous track days?
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wow, if that's with similar ambients, i'm pretty excited...! I'm going to be trying to finish up my install this weekend. Leaving the fan shroud intact as much as possible and moving from my RB to the AEM intake for a little more room... the hurdle for me is going to be the battery tray.
Did you end up putting that air duct for the battery tray back in? with the added thickness of the radiator and where the inlet / outlet is, i imagine that would be a tight fit, if it fit at all (not to mention the effectiveness of it with the tray cut off there). Any thoughts / concerns on the battery not getting pre-radiator air? |
Originally Posted by escapedan
(Post 4730581)
UPDATE!!
I drove at Sonoma Raceway yesterday (Sears Point, if you're an older guy...) and the results were outstanding!! Drove hard, held nothing back, and never went over 200 degrees, even behind traffic. In clean air the temp held 180-190 all day long. Outside air temps topped out at 70 degrees (nice to be in CA in November) so that was working in my favor. However, even with similar ambient temps the old (stock) radiator would hit 230 within 5 laps. So, final result for me. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. All the modifications were totally worth it. I would do this mod again in a heartbeat. Feel free to PM me with any questions whatsoever. |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4730588)
Similar ambient temps to previous track days?
Originally Posted by pcs
(Post 4730695)
Did you end up putting that air duct for the battery tray back in?
Originally Posted by pcs
(Post 4730695)
Any thoughts / concerns on the battery not getting pre-radiator air?
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Mine has a small duct that takes pre-radiator air and funnels it into the opening on the bottom of the battery tray (should be stock, at least on the S2, since i have a stock engine bay minus the RB intake).
I don't know that it makes a huge difference given that there is no outlet for the air - but if you never even had it, I guess I really shouldn't have to worry other than the heat killing the battery a little prematurely, if anything... |
Originally Posted by RX-Tuner
(Post 4730717)
Great feedback Dan, thanks for sharing and glad to hear your results were so positive! So your results with the same car, on the same track with very similar weather conditions show a 40-50 degree reduction in temps over the stock OE radiator! :ylsuper: Fantastic! This is a HUGE improvement in reducing engine operating temps.
On the other hand, this is still undoubtedly an excellent result. 235+ basically means previously the cooling system was overwhelmed, so it could have gone even higher if not limited by the ECU and the driver backing off. 180-190 with the new setup implies there may well be some cooling capacity to spare, since that is around where the thermostat opens (so may even be lower if the thermostat was not working to keep temps up). I was at the same track with very similar conditions the following day, and my own ECT temps flattened out at 210F (with 70F air temps). That's with a koyo s2 radiator. Still not an apples to apples comparison, since we don't have quite the same setup or laptimes (expect my car is generating a little more heat) but it is a very positive result for Dan's car to be 10-20F cooler than mine. |
So after working on it on and off for the last 2-3 weeks, we finally got the radiator in with the stock fan on (some of the ac lines are a little stressed / flexed due to the additional thickness). I don't know how escapedan got it done in one or two days, that amazes me, lol. I haven't even gotten to fitting the hoses, the battery tray or the intake yet.
The stock fan shroud has to be cut on both sides to accommodate the a/c lines, otherwise you won't be able to get the a/c condenser to fit, and I don't know if it's different on the S1 vs the S2, but my a/c condenser bolts in the stock radiator were M6x1.25 (i think) whereas the ones that go in the radiator ar M8x1.25 (essentially the stock bolts were too small / narrow for the hole in the dual pass). The hose routing seems simple enough, but the area that is being worked with is tight (at least for someone like me who is a mechanical noob). Once everything is in, it's really really tight and snugged down with the way the brackets and everything is set up. There is zero play / give in the radiator from underneath when I try to move it a bit. Looking forward to getting everything else put back together after cutting the battery tray and putting the AEM intake in over thanksgiving weekend. With any luck, I'll be able to get the car started and start prepping for the next track day in 2 weeks!! |
all done (I think)!!
Battery tray cut, but still fits the stock battery (I didn't have to cut the shroud). AEM intake is perfect since it gets the airbox out of the way. I plugged up some of the air gaps using rubber weatherstripping - i hope it holds... as for the hoses, you'll need a hose with a 90* bend where one side is longer than the other for the return (sorry - didn't measure it... 18" or so on the long end...?? not sure). For the radiator inlet hose, I just cut the lower radiator hose that was removed to attach to where the stock hose went. It's like a 5-6" piece with a 135* bend in it. One thing regarding the a/c condenser mounting points - the stock ones were smaller than the M8x1.25 on both the bottom and the top. I bought replacement bolts for the bottom and didn't think i had to get some for the top. Two trips to the hardware store like a noob. Also - the holes in the condenser bracket were too small up top, so you'll have to dremel away some of the material to make the hole larger. Car started back up no problem, I didn't leave any leaks that i'm aware of (yet), fans are back up and running, will drive the car around for a bit next week before the track - will report back with results... |
I should say - the install wasn't overly difficult per se, but it was definitely more involving than I expected (though to be honest, this was my first time REALLY in the engine bay).
The piece looks good, and i'm hoping it performs just as well as escapedan's! |
Any photos on how fan shroud fits and overall fit.
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no - i should have taken more pictures before i put everything back together... the pegs on the bottom are pretty tight of a fit - everything else bolts up fine. Ill take some pics and try to post them.
The fan shroud itself (on an S2) needs a cut on the drivers side to accommodate the a/c condenser hoses and on the passenger side to accommodate the inlet / outet pipes (make sure you cut and allow enough space for the hose too - i ran into a tight fit there for the upper hose). |
If the shroud is cut then the air will escape from the sides. So the sides will have to be sealed for it to be effective.
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yeah, I put some weatherstripping in there, but did it after the radiator was installed. Probably not the best application, but I was able to close up most of the openings. If i ever go through the hassle of taking everything apart again, I MIGHT try to do it better... only if absolutely needed though, hahaha
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Originally Posted by skc
(Post 4732199)
If the shroud is cut then the air will escape from the sides. So the sides will have to be sealed for it to be effective.
Scott, where's the fan? My RX8 was a good little boy this year! Bring him a present! |
Originally Posted by BigBadChris
(Post 4732413)
There were some gaps on the top and sides on mine, plenty of space for the fans to pull air around the radiator instead of through it. Ari suggested black foam. Since there is currently no engine, we have plenty of room to work. I will take photos when the engine is back in and the shroud fixed. Ideally, I would use the fan shroud Scott has designed for this radiator, but he has gone radio silent as of late.
Scott, where's the fan? My RX8 was a good little boy this year! Bring him a present! |
Quick update - was at Laguna Seca yesterday (27 Dec) and it was cold outside. Air temp was 50 degrees. Car stayed planted at 185 degrees all day. I'm convinced this radiator is rock solid. I would continue to highly recommend it to anyone with overheating issues.
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sorry - i had a similar update from Laguna on 12/12-12/13... couldn't get the temps to budge past 190...
I'll be doing some track days with a little more heat over the summer - it's a bit to wait, but that'll end up being a better comparison on the track in 95* temps... |
2 days at chuckwalla this past weekend. got the t-stat all the way open, though temps didn't really get past 208. Was reading between 200 & 208 every time I looked at it. This was during 30 minute sessions on saturday and 20 min sessions on sunday, with a 1hr session at the end of sunday. Ambeints between 65* and 75* depending on whether the sun was out or not.
1st time at that track though, so no accurate comparison data. |
Results
This past weekend the SCCA was at road Atlanta. I spoke with a customer who competed over the three day event and was quite pleased with the before and after results. Tim reported the car consistently ran 185-195f during all of the sessions with the new dual pass radiator. This was 20 and 25 minute qualifying as well as the 25 and 40 minute races!
By comparison, when previously running the Koyo unit the temp's would be in the 230-240f range and in traffic, even higher. Congratulations on the pole position and the win Tim! A bit more info from another customer (supercharged track car) regarding capacity. RX8Performance 3.87l Ron Davis 2.7l Koyo 2.3l Oem 1.95l Thank you Rolf for noting the differences during your testing. |
Impressive!
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Originally Posted by RX-Tuner
(Post 4752140)
This past weekend the SCCA was at road Atlanta. I spoke with a customer who competed over the three day event and was quite pleased with the before and after results. Tim reported the car consistently ran 185-195f during all of the sessions with the new dual pass radiator. This was 20 and 25 minute qualifying as well as the 25 and 40 minute races!
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Originally Posted by acroy
(Post 4752171)
Impressive!
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Originally Posted by RX-Tuner
(Post 4752140)
This past weekend the SCCA was at road Atlanta. I spoke with a customer who competed over the three day event and was quite pleased with the before and after results. Tim reported the car consistently ran 185-195f during all of the sessions with the new dual pass radiator. This was 20 and 25 minute qualifying as well as the 25 and 40 minute races!
By comparison, when previously running the Koyo unit the temp's would be in the 230-240f range and in traffic, even higher. Congratulations on the pole position and the win Tim! ] |
Originally Posted by rotarydude07
(Post 4752384)
What was the ambient temp at the track?
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Hey guys, fan shroud assembly is up!
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